rginns blog

I managed to shoot off from work early blaming the heat and the fact that I'd not had more than an hours sleep the previous night. I was not feeling my best and the conditions knew it, they decided to be extra sweaty just to make me feel extra special. I had arranged to meet GCW for some intended crimp-tastic crushage and expected a beasting. I was on his stomping ground, so wanted to take advantage of the knowledge. I was showed various problems, did a lot of the easy probs before Mr. Wallis arrived, then traversed a bit and then tried the arete to the right of Mohammed - did it in two parts, but like a lot of the problems there it's high and although it's bomber, you kinda feel a bit off balance - anyway I need to finish it off as it's a great juggy problem with good moves so I've added it to the list. I took a look at Pickpocket direct and got to the good crimp - much better than I thought it looked actually and the moves feel ok - fresh and with a good head on

I’ve decided to add some easier problems to the tick-list. The idea is partly to stop demoralisation due to non-completion of harder goals, but the main reason is because there are some great problems that I haven’t done yet and like the look of in the easier grades. I'm always open to suggestions too, watch this space...

Thursday 24th June: Good progress today. In an effort to get back to some semblance of fitness I’ve been getting in the early pre-work sessions, firstly because Brownstones isn’t far from my work, and secondly at this time of year the rock is cooler in the mornings. There are also less midges. Oh, and there’s noone about. So actually there are plenty of reasons. The primary reason however is that I have several routes there that are on this years list, and as we’re already half way through the year it’s about time I got on with some crushage. Anyway, I arrived at about 7:45, which gave me an hour. The objective of the day was the Pond Traverse. I normally warm up at the pond area anyway, my usual warm up being the traverse from Verdi corner to watery arête and back. It felt ok, so I decided to work on the traverse further right. After a few minutes I had worked out the section from the manky corner to about half way along the wall, and it felt ok – the difficulty with this bit is that

Monday 22.06.09 - Rather poor performance today although conditions were far from ideal - the aim of the day was either boopers or nexus dyno. Got there about ten past five and warmed up at the pond area - decided the only chance I'd have is if I got straight on with it so I cracked on with Boopers - it looks like a good line and was recommended by Mr Wallis last year and i had got as far as the crimps above the break. My first attempt got to the break which was fill of dried mud so I cleaned it out and dropped off - it feels a lot harder than it did last year although as I had only had 2 hours sleep due to the return of insomnia - I was armed with excuses! I kept going at it and although it felt ok, I still couldn't get to my high point - it will go soon though, I just need to spend more time on it. GCW arrived and watched me fall off Boopers a couple of times before I decided to give it up - if I couldn't get it after 45mins it wasn't happening - I did a few easy prob

Brownstones seems to be best in the mornings at this time of the year so I've decided to climb more before work to take advantage. When you walk into the quarry it's fascinating to hear all the warning calls that the birds make when they realise they're not alone. Incidently on the wildlife front I've seen Magpies, Crows, Peewits (lapwings) and wood pigeons and I've not even been twitching properly! Earlier in the year there were ducks and either a Kestrel or other small hawk soaring about. The rock is usually cool in the morning, so I've been working on the Pond traverse - in a couple of half hour sessions I've managed to link from Verdi Corner over to Watery Arete. Last year I managed to link the initial wall so now the pond is dry it's only a matter of time before it goes in it's entirity. The entire traverse gets Font 6c so if it does get crushed it'll be awesome as that's this years target grade. There's no reason why it won't a

Working away is a proper drag sometimes. Drive, meeting, hotel, drive, meeting, hotel, drive... ad nauseum. Plus normally late finishing procludes climbing action, but not this time! Happened to have a meeting in Swindon and a quick trawl of the net brought the nearest bouldering as the Ring road boulders in Brisol, a mere hour away. The dice was thrown and the avoidance of a rush hour drive to Portsmouth was the deciding factor. Weather was choppy, bit of a gamble. upon arrival, the outlook was poor - the proximity of rock seemed unlikely as I parked up in a neat housing estate, but I trusted the topo and crossed the dangerous 5 lanes of the ring-road. It was more precarious than the Brownstones road-crossing lottery and I'm not a fan of dancing with cars! After a short trot through the field and with the nose running from gayfever, I start to regret this. after dropping down to the river and following it for a couple of minutes the climbing appears up the banking to the right. T

Hutton roof is always good for an ego boost, and as Taff hadn't been up there before it was a good choice for the day. We sailed up in the hairdressers car with the roof off, making the hair even more bouffant than usual. Quite fitting really... Weather was boiling hot and too warm to get any meaningful bouldering done anyways so roping was the order of the day. As expected the crag was full of DofE types and beginners all over the shop. the idea was to bust the rope out for mileage as it's been a while since being on the sharp end, but we decided to warm up on a few easy solos - the ropes, suffice to say, never made an appearance something quite liberating about soloing. Plenty of routes, mileage, polish, and mucking about on the overhangs... first VS solo although it's never VS, more highball 5a boulder problem but f*ck it, I'll claim it anyway ;).cracking day had.

It's my birthday tomorrow and for some reason everything seems to be conspiring to piss me off including this shitty weather. for two weeks it's been boiling bloody hot and then it pisses it down and looks like doing so for the next week, aaaaaaaaaaaargh!!! Roaches trip to crush the staffordshire flyer has had to be cancelled. That makes it the 4th planned Roaches trip out of five cancelled. On a more positive note I get the Cornwall guide tomorrow ;)

Tuesday 2nd June: went over to the place noone goes to again as per usual on Tuesdays pre-in-law teatime and was dismayed by the amount of midges also enjoying the solitude. Also lost ten minutes by leaving me bloody chalk in the car, which I had to fetch. nice spot as it is, the waterfall however really detracts from the atmosphere with it's humidity, but anyway I warmed up on the dyno wall doing the usual traverses and felt weak as shit. As I was short on time I thought I'd better get straight on with the objective of the day, the overhang, the landing of which had already been nicely prepared with dead rhododendrons by Mr. R a few months before. after a spot of brushing I tried the first moves which felt impossibly hard, however after a few tries I nailed the move to the roof from a jug on the arete, and much to my surprise reached the good hold - the moves feel really good and easier than I thought - this progress has got me PROPER PSYCHED to go back and complete, although

Saturday 30th May: went to Cratcliffe Tor with Andy and Stoff, but felt entirely uninspired, mostly because it was exceedingly hot - slab climbing was like trying to walk up a kids slide with oiled up feet. No pleasant. Had a good time in any case, ticking plenty of easy stuff and I always like visiting places I've never been to... not a day for ticking hard stuff, but for catching up with mates.