New route - Human Wave 6B (E1 6a)
Last week I finally managed to climb a project I've had in mind for a while in Wilton 4.
Les Ainsworth had cleared the top ledge and done a great job of making this route possible.
I had only been on it for a short half hour the previous weekend, and then I was working away so I was keen to get back on it on my return.
As I was working in Serbia it meant a 4am start and 2 flights before getting back around lunchtime. Robin was still keen for Wilton 4 so I met him and Tim there around 2pm although I was knackered and didn't expect to get anything done.
Soon after trying it I managed to sort out the sequence for the start , so I knew I needed to go for it.
The top holds needed another brush as it had rained since the weekend, so I rigged up a rope and took the worst of the soil off the top and ensured the holds were relatively free of earth.
Disappointingly the top hold was still damp, and I think the route may suffer from wash off unless the top consolidates, but I was still keen to give it a go.
I had initially thought I would try it on a rope first but decided in the end to do it ground up, hence the sketchy top out. The top isn't hard, it's just at a worrying height.
It's at that ambiguous height between highball bouldering and short trad, but there's no gear, so I would expect most people to approach it with a highball head on.
It's the arete left of Cutty Sark (HVS - Cutty Sark takes the corner to the right and moves leftward to join Human Wave in the top groove.)
It's a quality line, so I hope it gets some attention. Currently clean so get to it!
Human Wave 6B - Wilton 4 from Rick Ginns on Vimeo.
Les Ainsworth had cleared the top ledge and done a great job of making this route possible.
I had only been on it for a short half hour the previous weekend, and then I was working away so I was keen to get back on it on my return.
As I was working in Serbia it meant a 4am start and 2 flights before getting back around lunchtime. Robin was still keen for Wilton 4 so I met him and Tim there around 2pm although I was knackered and didn't expect to get anything done.
Soon after trying it I managed to sort out the sequence for the start , so I knew I needed to go for it.
The top holds needed another brush as it had rained since the weekend, so I rigged up a rope and took the worst of the soil off the top and ensured the holds were relatively free of earth.
Disappointingly the top hold was still damp, and I think the route may suffer from wash off unless the top consolidates, but I was still keen to give it a go.
I had initially thought I would try it on a rope first but decided in the end to do it ground up, hence the sketchy top out. The top isn't hard, it's just at a worrying height.
It's at that ambiguous height between highball bouldering and short trad, but there's no gear, so I would expect most people to approach it with a highball head on.
It's the arete left of Cutty Sark (HVS - Cutty Sark takes the corner to the right and moves leftward to join Human Wave in the top groove.)
It's a quality line, so I hope it gets some attention. Currently clean so get to it!
Human Wave 6B - Wilton 4 from Rick Ginns on Vimeo.
Comments
Post a Comment