Board sessions and Knowle Heights
I've had a couple of fairly fruitful board sessions over the past couple of weeks, having made a concerted effort to try and get on the board even if it's only for half an hour or so to get the arms going.
The result is that I've got a reasonable circuit going that I can get on relatively regularly and this should start to bring gains in a couple of weeks or so.
Anyway, I managed to get out up to Knowle Heights quarry yesterday after a cracking forecast. R-man and GCW were both busy, so I headed up there on my own, arriving later than anticipated.
The weather was baltic, but the crag was actually in full sun, so although it was chilly, it wasn't too unpleasant. I set about trying the overhang which was the main aim. The crux seems to be going from the undercut crack (of which the right hand hold is now wider due to crumbling rock) up to a high small crimp, matching, and then somehow getting a high foot to go for the break.
This felt nails to me, probably as it targets my biggest weakness, core body strength, and I think I'll need to concentrate more on this if i'm to have any success.
As I was getting somewhat frustrated, I had another look around the rest of the quarry, and in the dry there looks like quite a bit to go at, in that dank, graffitied Lancs quarry type of way. Round to the left of the overhang, I climbed the left arete of a short diagonal crack, at about 4+/5 and then tried to climb the right arete, using the low block, with a springy starting move. I got my hand in the break and was just getting my feet high when my left hand pulled a hold off the break, I went catapulting backwards and landed on my arse and wrist.
I'm now nursing an annoyingly tender bruise on the lower part of my thumb. It's quite painful really. After that, I'd had enough and sacked it.
I definitely want to get fit for the overhang, it feel's a nice couple of moves really.
crappy vid to follow MAYBE.....
Offending hold.......
The result is that I've got a reasonable circuit going that I can get on relatively regularly and this should start to bring gains in a couple of weeks or so.
Anyway, I managed to get out up to Knowle Heights quarry yesterday after a cracking forecast. R-man and GCW were both busy, so I headed up there on my own, arriving later than anticipated.
The weather was baltic, but the crag was actually in full sun, so although it was chilly, it wasn't too unpleasant. I set about trying the overhang which was the main aim. The crux seems to be going from the undercut crack (of which the right hand hold is now wider due to crumbling rock) up to a high small crimp, matching, and then somehow getting a high foot to go for the break.
This felt nails to me, probably as it targets my biggest weakness, core body strength, and I think I'll need to concentrate more on this if i'm to have any success.
As I was getting somewhat frustrated, I had another look around the rest of the quarry, and in the dry there looks like quite a bit to go at, in that dank, graffitied Lancs quarry type of way. Round to the left of the overhang, I climbed the left arete of a short diagonal crack, at about 4+/5 and then tried to climb the right arete, using the low block, with a springy starting move. I got my hand in the break and was just getting my feet high when my left hand pulled a hold off the break, I went catapulting backwards and landed on my arse and wrist.
I'm now nursing an annoyingly tender bruise on the lower part of my thumb. It's quite painful really. After that, I'd had enough and sacked it.
I definitely want to get fit for the overhang, it feel's a nice couple of moves really.
crappy vid to follow MAYBE.....
Offending hold.......
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