Wiltonia

So after work I had to go over to Yorkshire to pick up a lathe but I wanted to see the new problems that gcw had done up at Wilton 1. I only had twenty minutes or so by the time I got there. These new problems are on the block opposite the main wall, ( Grey Wall?) a quite innocuous wall that you would normally walk past. I recognised it from all the broken holds, so I knew this was where G had been!!
First I got on the right hand wall, (font 5) which involves an enjoyable move out right and then up although I avoided the top out through getting mangled by the remnants of last years burnt heather.
Then I climbed left arĂȘte (font 5), topping out this time, a nice set of moves really. I then had a look at the dyno (6a) and after a few goes latched it, not very stylishly admittedly, legs flailing leftwards. This feels harder than it is as it's slightly slabby, making you feel like your legs are going to clatter against the wall...
Lastly I had a go at the 6b undercut problem but I didn't get on with it, I could barely get off the ground, but then I am pretty shit at underclings. This felt nails...anyway by then it was time to go. Gradings seem fair to me, think I need to be training the undercuts though...
Good to see r-man and G still foraging for routes with some success, the Wiltons are well overdue a mini guide.

The next few weeks are going to be really manic. After working in Spain last week I'm in Oxford at the weekend, then leave to work on a project in marseille on Monday for 6 days, then see the family for a day before heading up to Glasgow to manage a job up there, then straight down to Lutterworth for two days... It looks like I'll be out of action for two weeks at least, and work doesn't seem to be easing up at all... Bring on the grit season. That reminds me, I still need to get the bloody hv20 fixed, it still won't work but I have no idea what to do for the best...

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