Cadshaw
Cadshaw is a pretty fickle place. I remember the last time I went over there, I could barely pull on to Brian Jacques, a problem that climbs the left hand side of a slightly overhanging wall. I think its' location, being quite a sheltered and enclosed area contributes to the mostly greasy conditions that you tend to find there.
Anyway, last Wednesday conditions were sueprisingly good - fairly cool, and there had been a dry few weeks, so there was little seepage.
I managed to negotiate a couple of hours out and met up with GCW for another attempt at working the problem. To be honest I wasn't that hopeful bearing in mind my previous failures, but to my surprise I managed to pull on first go. After working it a bit I managed to slap the arete, but had difficulty holding it. After a few goes though I could do this move too.
There appear to be two different betas (betae? beti? whatever...) for this problem - the first clinbing the face in small moves a la Mr. Mueller via some horrendously poor crimps, and the second involves an improbable lanky sequence missing out most of the holds a la Mr. Wallis. It appears I'm somewhere between the two.
G proceded to climb the problem annoyingly quickly and was also setting about looking at another project of his.
From the first move of BJ, I find it best to get the arete lowish via a heel hook, adjust the toe, then get the arete higher up (better), and then go straight from there to the high but good crimp.
If I can hold that crimp, the crux is done, but it's at full stretch and is a kind of funny barn door type move.
As I had the first couple of moves wired I concentrated on the move off the arete to the high crimp. At first I couldn't even reach it, but after a few goes I was tickling the hold and by the end I could almost hold it.
Once I have this move 'lock down', I reckon the crush is on...
Dare I to dream?
I still don't know how I can be so psyched for a measly 7 moves on some out of the way Lancashire quarried hole, but I've wanted to do this problem for a long time. I've never felt even close to it. Now however, I feel even more psyched for it than ever. For the first time it feels on the horizon and I've now made more progress than I ever have before.
I can't see conditions being great for a while though, what with all this rain, and I think the biggest obstacle to the crush is going to be conditions.
On a separate note, Biggups to Mr. Jennings who has been crushing the clips of late, with a FA of Moddey Dhoo F8a+ (good Manx dog reference...), no mean feat and added to other 8 related crushings, E8, Font 8a etc what more is there for the man to do?! Nice one.
Anyway, last Wednesday conditions were sueprisingly good - fairly cool, and there had been a dry few weeks, so there was little seepage.
I managed to negotiate a couple of hours out and met up with GCW for another attempt at working the problem. To be honest I wasn't that hopeful bearing in mind my previous failures, but to my surprise I managed to pull on first go. After working it a bit I managed to slap the arete, but had difficulty holding it. After a few goes though I could do this move too.
There appear to be two different betas (betae? beti? whatever...) for this problem - the first clinbing the face in small moves a la Mr. Mueller via some horrendously poor crimps, and the second involves an improbable lanky sequence missing out most of the holds a la Mr. Wallis. It appears I'm somewhere between the two.
G proceded to climb the problem annoyingly quickly and was also setting about looking at another project of his.
From the first move of BJ, I find it best to get the arete lowish via a heel hook, adjust the toe, then get the arete higher up (better), and then go straight from there to the high but good crimp.
If I can hold that crimp, the crux is done, but it's at full stretch and is a kind of funny barn door type move.
As I had the first couple of moves wired I concentrated on the move off the arete to the high crimp. At first I couldn't even reach it, but after a few goes I was tickling the hold and by the end I could almost hold it.
Once I have this move 'lock down', I reckon the crush is on...
Dare I to dream?
I still don't know how I can be so psyched for a measly 7 moves on some out of the way Lancashire quarried hole, but I've wanted to do this problem for a long time. I've never felt even close to it. Now however, I feel even more psyched for it than ever. For the first time it feels on the horizon and I've now made more progress than I ever have before.
I can't see conditions being great for a while though, what with all this rain, and I think the biggest obstacle to the crush is going to be conditions.
On a separate note, Biggups to Mr. Jennings who has been crushing the clips of late, with a FA of Moddey Dhoo F8a+ (good Manx dog reference...), no mean feat and added to other 8 related crushings, E8, Font 8a etc what more is there for the man to do?! Nice one.
Comments
Post a Comment