Woodhouse Scarf
Friday 31st January
As a connoisseur of scruffy urban crags, I kind of knew what to expect when I went to Woodhouse today, but I was actually quite impressed. Yes, there was the ubiquitous litter and a vague smell of dog shit, but that wasn't important.
I got there ealier than expected, and had about an hour and a quarter between meetings. It was 2 degrees when I got there but it seemed really bloody cold. I felt as psyched as I usually do in the morning. i.e. not very.
I decided to jump straight on without warming up and chose an unnamed 6a (can't remember which one, will edit this later) and flashed it. To be fair, it felt easier than that but I was going by the Yorkshire Gritstone bouldering guide (Vertebrae one). I'm still not sure about this guide really, bit too selective for my liking, and only the bare bones of information make it difficult to use.
Anyway, I digress.
After that I wandered along the crag picking off problems here and there that looked good. I really like the rock, especially as it doesn't seem to be polished to buggery like some other Yorkshire crags.
Then I came to the cave buttress, a slab overhung at the bottom lending itself to sit-starts. Originally I wanted to look at Metal Mickey, but in the event without a spotter and with one rather thin mat, I decided not to.
I turned my attention to the Cave buttress traverse. In the 2001 guide it give this problem 6b, right in my range so I thought I'd have a crack. It felt ok until the arete, although the feet did have to cut loose which felt awkward, but as soon as I reached round the arete, the sun was out and proceded to blind me every time I made the move. Looking back at the new guide it gives it Font 6c, which felt about right, which puts it right at the top of my range.So although I didn't crush, it was nice to get out. I'd go back there too, there's loads I didn't have a chance to get on.
As a connoisseur of scruffy urban crags, I kind of knew what to expect when I went to Woodhouse today, but I was actually quite impressed. Yes, there was the ubiquitous litter and a vague smell of dog shit, but that wasn't important.
I got there ealier than expected, and had about an hour and a quarter between meetings. It was 2 degrees when I got there but it seemed really bloody cold. I felt as psyched as I usually do in the morning. i.e. not very.
I decided to jump straight on without warming up and chose an unnamed 6a (can't remember which one, will edit this later) and flashed it. To be fair, it felt easier than that but I was going by the Yorkshire Gritstone bouldering guide (Vertebrae one). I'm still not sure about this guide really, bit too selective for my liking, and only the bare bones of information make it difficult to use.
Anyway, I digress.
After that I wandered along the crag picking off problems here and there that looked good. I really like the rock, especially as it doesn't seem to be polished to buggery like some other Yorkshire crags.
Then I came to the cave buttress, a slab overhung at the bottom lending itself to sit-starts. Originally I wanted to look at Metal Mickey, but in the event without a spotter and with one rather thin mat, I decided not to.
I turned my attention to the Cave buttress traverse. In the 2001 guide it give this problem 6b, right in my range so I thought I'd have a crack. It felt ok until the arete, although the feet did have to cut loose which felt awkward, but as soon as I reached round the arete, the sun was out and proceded to blind me every time I made the move. Looking back at the new guide it gives it Font 6c, which felt about right, which puts it right at the top of my range.So although I didn't crush, it was nice to get out. I'd go back there too, there's loads I didn't have a chance to get on.
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