Broughton again
Last Wednesday I managed to get an hour free to nip up to the roaches quickly and I had only one aim: staffordshire Flyer.
Time was short, so the priority was to find Doxeys pool as I'd never been before. I started up to the Upper Tier and slogged my way along. I'd forgotten how good the bouldering is on the upper tier, but I didn't have any time to stop so I kept going.
The path finishes, so I carried along the broken edge for a few hundred yards before heading up and over the Upper tier to find Doxeys. I hadn't realised how far it would be, but got there eventually, after getting somewhat misrouted.
Without further ado I got straight onto Staffordshire Flyer. The problem takes a rail up a roof to a dynamic move left to a hold on the arete, then up right, and goes at about 6b.
Although it was fairly wet, it wasn't too bad, and there were some large stones so my mat didn't get too wet.
The first move is ok, getting established on the rail, if a little off balance, and I could get my right hand to the top of the rail, but throwing for the good hold on the arete felt necky without a spotter. I tried it a couple of times, but it's a move you really need to commit to. Think I need to come back with a spotter and maybe another pad, there is the potential to land quite awkwardly..
Anyway, fast forward to today, and after a hectic weekend I managed to get to Broughton this evening.
I wasn't feeling great, it's been a theme recently, not helped by running myself into the ground. Empty again. I don't mind that though, allows me to focus better.
I tried a couple of the easier problems and then got on one of the 5c+s, without much success. I then tried a 5c. Felt shit.
As I was getting nowhere, I decided to see how many of the 5b+s I could do before I had to leave. I managed about 15 problems, flashing all of them apart from 2, then needed to leave. I was pleased to leave feeling fairly beasted even though I didn't climb anything hard. Most of the problems are good at Broughton, and usually quite burly, so I feel pretty knackered now.
Good stuff.
Time was short, so the priority was to find Doxeys pool as I'd never been before. I started up to the Upper Tier and slogged my way along. I'd forgotten how good the bouldering is on the upper tier, but I didn't have any time to stop so I kept going.
The path finishes, so I carried along the broken edge for a few hundred yards before heading up and over the Upper tier to find Doxeys. I hadn't realised how far it would be, but got there eventually, after getting somewhat misrouted.
Without further ado I got straight onto Staffordshire Flyer. The problem takes a rail up a roof to a dynamic move left to a hold on the arete, then up right, and goes at about 6b.
Although it was fairly wet, it wasn't too bad, and there were some large stones so my mat didn't get too wet.
The first move is ok, getting established on the rail, if a little off balance, and I could get my right hand to the top of the rail, but throwing for the good hold on the arete felt necky without a spotter. I tried it a couple of times, but it's a move you really need to commit to. Think I need to come back with a spotter and maybe another pad, there is the potential to land quite awkwardly..
Anyway, fast forward to today, and after a hectic weekend I managed to get to Broughton this evening.
I wasn't feeling great, it's been a theme recently, not helped by running myself into the ground. Empty again. I don't mind that though, allows me to focus better.
I tried a couple of the easier problems and then got on one of the 5c+s, without much success. I then tried a 5c. Felt shit.
As I was getting nowhere, I decided to see how many of the 5b+s I could do before I had to leave. I managed about 15 problems, flashing all of them apart from 2, then needed to leave. I was pleased to leave feeling fairly beasted even though I didn't climb anything hard. Most of the problems are good at Broughton, and usually quite burly, so I feel pretty knackered now.
Good stuff.
Comments
Post a Comment