Brownstones, Denham and Monty.

Well I had the day off today as I had to be at home at 2 for the estate agents I decided to head out somewhere. Denham was the order of the day. I got there by about 10am and it was raining. After spilling coffee all over the car whilst waiting for the rain to clear up I braved a look at the rock.
Surprisingly it wasn't too bad at all in spite of the rain.I warmed up on the font 5 wall to the right of the groove, then put a pad under Pool arete.
This one of the illustrious problems on the list and I was eager to get back on. After a couple of goes I could get my feet high and work my right hand up the arete, but although I was tickling the jug I couldn't hold it. The high feet were pushing me away from the wall really which made it even more difficult to hold. annoying.
I then tried the 6b groove over to the left, getting to the crap slopers and no further. Another disappointment. I decided to look at the other problems in the guide here so walked over to the left. First was the slab left of Mohammed blah blah blah. Green green green, the whole wall was covered in lichen which was wet. unclimbable. Pity as it looks like a good problem.
The next area was too highball for me without a spotter anyway, and the third area with drill scar wall was again coated in a layer of lichen.
By this point I was getting distinctly unhappy. After a brief look at snap derision I trudged off.
I really want to like Denham, but the last couple of times I've been disappointed. Need to bring a brush next time...
I still had some time left so I decided to head nearer to home and back to Brownstones. I came yesterday with Banksy, but true to form whenever I go climbing with this chap it bloody rains.
Anyway today was looking dry so I was glad to be heading back. I wanted to take another look at the right hand niche eliminate (Font 6a).
Boots on, I climbed it first go. This took me by surprise. It's a good set of moves with a tricky rockover. Good stuff.
Then I wanted to get another one off the list, so tried Verdinand. I got to the juggy crimps first go, but I just haven't got the reach to get to the good crimps near the top of the groove. The only crimp I can reach is the useless matchstick crimp half way up the groove. I really need to sort out some different beta for this as I just don't have the lank for it, but this is likely to be a lot harder.
I then turned my attention to the two step rockover eliminate. Frustatingly, after a few goes I almost touched the top, and then didn't get that far again. Bugger.
Eventually I gave up on that as I had to go.
after meeting ginger Simon for boring paperwork I went over to Monty. Not been to Lower Montcliffe for ages, and saw that there are new steps installed on the walk down. Nice. Also I noticed a lot of rock fall in the quarry itself. It looks like someone has been doing a lot of trundling here, as there was loose rock on the floor all over the quarry.
I had a brief play on Bach but my tips were trashed anyway, so I left that to look at Indian Face. Again, the landing was off putting so I eventually put my mat under the Dinosaur Adventure 3D problem. This is another one I've tried on and off although I felt a lot stronger on it today. The difficulty I have on this one is getting my right hand high enough to be able to pull up so my left foot can get high.
My hands were beasted by this point, but I think with a bit more work this could be possible though.
One thing though, I got a dose of the Lankys and broke the small right foot. The start now involves both feet on the left, but this doesn't add to the difficulty.


  1. Which right foot on Dinosaur? I pull on with my left on the low edge and right just smearing. If you're getting your right hand high in the groove you should nail this sucker.

    Denham has its charms. Honest.

  2. There was a low right crimpy foothold where you would naturally smear but both feet on the left edge feels just as easy for me anyway.
    In the groove there's a goodish hold half way up, my problem is getting higher up in the groove. Feels ok apart from that though...

    I heart Denham really,Just need a bloody stiff brush next time and a dose of bollocks....


Post a Comment