Broonstoones again
Tuesday 15th June
Went down to Jumbles, traversing back and forth, but the fingers felt beasted. Very tender. Got the arms moving, but nothing that interesting done.
Wednesday 16th June
Well, Surprise couple of hours free tonight so I decided to head up to Brownstones. I wanted another look at the Pond traverse and a couple of other things. I texted Kip to say I was heading down, and got there about 20 past 5.
It was baking hot today, but the pond traverse is pretty good even in the heat given its juggy and crimptastic nature.
I started off with a shit sequence from the corner, but after a couple of goes I have worked out a much better sequence, something like I was doing last year I recall.
Kip arrived, missus in tow, and bumbled around a bit on various things. I tried the 6b rockover problem on the two step wall again, but kept getting shut down again.
I had another look at the Pond traverse and there were a couple of other lads there trying it. I got as far as the big high jug near the left hand corner. I'm quite pleased as this is more or less as far as I've ever done, but I'm reticent to use this jug and would prefer to use the break holds, seems more pure. Not that it matters though... I reckon with a bit more fitness I'll nail this.
anyway then Steve turned up, dog in tow. I haven't seen him in ages, so it was good to catch up.
I pointed him at some of the pond area classics, and then we tried an eliminate on Moss wall. Good eliminate rockover, but really tricky! Kip seemed insistent to show me this, probably because I can't do it so I returned the favour by pointing him up Dynamic eliminate, which, erm, he couldn't do.
then one of the other lads was looking at Verdigris and I couldn't resist giving this another go. They were managing the first move static though which is much harder for me. Easier to jump than climb eh? When I did it first time round a couple of years ago it felt desparate, but today it felt easy and after one or two mis-fires I got up it, first time I've repeated it actually, so I was pretty content.
By that time I was well overdue so had to scram sharpish.
Climbed every day this week so far, skin is very tender, but hoping to get out tomorrow so am overdosing on the 'climb-on' and hoping for best.
Saturday morning is looking good too, so hope the weather is good...
Went down to Jumbles, traversing back and forth, but the fingers felt beasted. Very tender. Got the arms moving, but nothing that interesting done.
Wednesday 16th June
Well, Surprise couple of hours free tonight so I decided to head up to Brownstones. I wanted another look at the Pond traverse and a couple of other things. I texted Kip to say I was heading down, and got there about 20 past 5.
It was baking hot today, but the pond traverse is pretty good even in the heat given its juggy and crimptastic nature.
I started off with a shit sequence from the corner, but after a couple of goes I have worked out a much better sequence, something like I was doing last year I recall.
Kip arrived, missus in tow, and bumbled around a bit on various things. I tried the 6b rockover problem on the two step wall again, but kept getting shut down again.
I had another look at the Pond traverse and there were a couple of other lads there trying it. I got as far as the big high jug near the left hand corner. I'm quite pleased as this is more or less as far as I've ever done, but I'm reticent to use this jug and would prefer to use the break holds, seems more pure. Not that it matters though... I reckon with a bit more fitness I'll nail this.
anyway then Steve turned up, dog in tow. I haven't seen him in ages, so it was good to catch up.
I pointed him at some of the pond area classics, and then we tried an eliminate on Moss wall. Good eliminate rockover, but really tricky! Kip seemed insistent to show me this, probably because I can't do it so I returned the favour by pointing him up Dynamic eliminate, which, erm, he couldn't do.
then one of the other lads was looking at Verdigris and I couldn't resist giving this another go. They were managing the first move static though which is much harder for me. Easier to jump than climb eh? When I did it first time round a couple of years ago it felt desparate, but today it felt easy and after one or two mis-fires I got up it, first time I've repeated it actually, so I was pretty content.
By that time I was well overdue so had to scram sharpish.
Climbed every day this week so far, skin is very tender, but hoping to get out tomorrow so am overdosing on the 'climb-on' and hoping for best.
Saturday morning is looking good too, so hope the weather is good...
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