multiple failures
Short version: I didn't climb anything.
Long version: I went down to crumbly Jumbly tonight for a peep. It's the first time recently I've been there on my own, or so I thought. When I arrived I noticed someone over at the Clowns pocket wall. It turned out to be R-man. It was good to finally meet him as I've had quite a bit of email banter about various things over the last few years. Usually esoterica.
He was about to leave so after pointing him at a couple of things I headed over to what I was there to do.
I abbed the line I was looking at and cleaned off the top. The problem itself was filthy and it took a while to clean it off. I uncovered a couple of goodish crimps. The problem goes further right than I originally thought. From the jug a high reach to a tiny crimp allows a step up to another crimp. At least that is as far as I got. the slopey ledge and landing is very off putting and means the climb becomes quite bold fairly quickly. I just didn't fancy it tonight, maybe with at least one spotter and another pad it might go.
After that disappointing conclusion I turned my attention to the traverse. After a good brush of the holds after the rain last night I jumped on. I've climbed every move on this problem, and all I need to do is link them.
The start is easy, but every time I was getting to the hard move it felt greasy. Either my foot felt wrong, or else the left crimp was slipping off on the step through. It was quite warm which didn't help, and I just couldn't get my left on the ledge. I changed tack and tried it using the left hand hold lower down, but this then made my right foot less stable. All very frustrating. The annoying thing is that when I do the move in isolation I can do it. I must be doing something wrong. I might get an hour free tomorrow in the middle of the day, I'll try again.
What with all this Chumbles action I've been very lax on the video and projects. Once I've got all I need to get done here, I will no doubt be-dazzle you all with some more superb feats of climbing on tape, in front of your very eyes!
Long version: I went down to crumbly Jumbly tonight for a peep. It's the first time recently I've been there on my own, or so I thought. When I arrived I noticed someone over at the Clowns pocket wall. It turned out to be R-man. It was good to finally meet him as I've had quite a bit of email banter about various things over the last few years. Usually esoterica.
He was about to leave so after pointing him at a couple of things I headed over to what I was there to do.
I abbed the line I was looking at and cleaned off the top. The problem itself was filthy and it took a while to clean it off. I uncovered a couple of goodish crimps. The problem goes further right than I originally thought. From the jug a high reach to a tiny crimp allows a step up to another crimp. At least that is as far as I got. the slopey ledge and landing is very off putting and means the climb becomes quite bold fairly quickly. I just didn't fancy it tonight, maybe with at least one spotter and another pad it might go.
After that disappointing conclusion I turned my attention to the traverse. After a good brush of the holds after the rain last night I jumped on. I've climbed every move on this problem, and all I need to do is link them.
The start is easy, but every time I was getting to the hard move it felt greasy. Either my foot felt wrong, or else the left crimp was slipping off on the step through. It was quite warm which didn't help, and I just couldn't get my left on the ledge. I changed tack and tried it using the left hand hold lower down, but this then made my right foot less stable. All very frustrating. The annoying thing is that when I do the move in isolation I can do it. I must be doing something wrong. I might get an hour free tomorrow in the middle of the day, I'll try again.
What with all this Chumbles action I've been very lax on the video and projects. Once I've got all I need to get done here, I will no doubt be-dazzle you all with some more superb feats of climbing on tape, in front of your very eyes!
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