Falling like a clown.

Sunday 9th may
I found myself a little hungover driving back from York this afternoon. As I was a little earlier than I expected I decided to meet GCW and Nik to give them a tour of the crag classics at Chummla.
I've been looking at Clowns Pocket problem for what seems like ages and I was feeling good for it today.
After a brief look at the Undiscovered Dyno I did a couple of years ago, G decided to break the starting hold off. I shouldn't be surprised really, he has a habit of doing that... Actually it was a bit loose anyway and was coming off at some point. Nik soon arrived with the young'un in tow and I showed them the Clowns Pocket. The Direct was still unclimbed and the arete hasn't been done direct either.
Nik flashed Clowns Pocket which goes from the arete with consummate ease and G was trying the direct with some dubious looking heel hooking action. This was clearly the way to go though, and he was looking strong on it. The dyno was also looking possible and GCW was coming very close, slapping just below the pocket. It's a really blind dyno, but a little more oomph and he'll get it done.
Nik was trying a similar method on the direct and managed to get the first ascent, pretty impressive stuff, graded at font 7a.
I jumped back onto Clowns Pocket and was getting to the shot hole easily. The next move is quite dynamic, but goes to a good hold, then it's just the rockover to crimps. As soon as I touched the crimp, which felt great, my right hand suddenly popped off totally unexpectedly. as I wasn't anticipating this I landed on my back which hurt. I've also got a wobbly tooth, but I'm sure it'll be ok in a couple of days, could have been worse.
EDIT: My neck is now considerably more painful than last night, climbing will be out for at least a few days so it can right itself...
Still, I felt close to doing it, maybe next time I'm down there.


  1. Just watching the video I've noticed that you have your right leg bent and your right knee pushing against the rock for the move from the slot up to the crimps. I guess you're doing this to try and get some push to reach the crimps but if you watch the video you'll see your left arm is nowhere near fully extended when you reach the crimps so you don't need to right leg push to get the reach. In fact I think that the right knee is actually pushing you away from the rock and moving you into a less balanced position. If you compare with me doing the same move my right leg is fully straightened. This means I can get my hips very close to the rock and almost sit on my left foot which is a more balanced position to do the reach up. Anal micro beta maybe, but I think if you try and get that right leg straight and just get a stable position between your left foot and right hand you'll find that move easy. These little tweaks can make a big difference. Go forth and crush beast.
    P.S I hop you head isn't too sore today.

  2. You've hit the nail on the head with regards what I'm doing. At the time it felt better getting the right knee up, but in retrospect it was almost pushing me off the holds. I also think I'm pulling up too much and snatcing at the crimp, probably in eagerness to get it done, but I think if I lock off on the right and keep the knee low it'll be easier. It felt very doable though and I think it'll get done before long.
    The neck is pretty sore actually, at least 2 or 3 days off climbing to sort it out :(

  3. Give us a bell when you want to go and crush it, I'll bring some pads and do some spotting. Need to try the dyno again I suppose.

  4. Coolio. will do. Maybe Thursday, but depends on the neck, I'll let you know. prepare your spring for the dyno crush!


Post a Comment