Blackstone Edge crushage
I'm on me tod this weekend, so good opportunity to get some crushing done. that is, if the weather hadn't stopped play...
Anyway, it's not been entirely wasted. Last night I popped over to Blackstone Edge. I've been here a few times, but apparantly not since 2008, which surprised me, I hadn't realised it had been so long. I got there at about 6. the weather was quite sunny, but not too hot to make conditions too greasy. Before striking up to the edge, I took a detour into the White house quarry on the left . I had heard that this is being developed for the forthcoming guide. The initial bay contains a couple of nice slabs, unlikely to contain many hard problems, maybe 1 or 2 lines. interestingly there is a rusting peg on the higher wall - this place has clearly been climbed on for some time, which isn't surprising given the close proximity to the Pennine way. Another clue was '5c' painted in yellow at the base of a wall. hmm, font this ain't.
I continued on to the crag and went straight over to the Hueco blocks. I didn't expect to see anybody, especially as it was a Friday night, but there was one guy bouldering on the back edge near the engravings. I started on the 6a slab, which was my main aim actually, but just couldn't move on from the sloper. better footwork needed I think. I gave up on that and went over to the 6b problem on the steep side of the right hand block. This is only short, but is a really good couple of moves, and suits me as it goes off a good crimp. After a couple of misfires I got up (even without a dab *gasp*). it felt fairly stiff as there's not much for the feet.
then I went to the other side of the block to look at the 6a+ arete. I tried this last time I was here and just couldn't get the last move. It was this move that was frustrating me again. I spent ages with various methods, including heel hooking, but none of them worked. In the end all it needed was a long reach and a couple of adjustments and it was in the bag.
Next I did a couple of easy but enjoyable problems, and then had a look at the 6a arete to the right of the slab. Again, this beasted the skin and by this time I was pretty raw, but I got up it, utilising a high foot. Looking back at an old vid Nik is trying it with only the right hand, which would be impressive!
By this time it was getting on, not that I had any time constraints, but I had another look at the slab to see if I could figure it out. On the second go I managed to split three tips on my left hand which are now fairly sore...
So, a 6a, 6a+ and a 6b all in one session. Definitely the best performance of the year so far.
Day off today due to the rain, then hopefully tomorrow will be Woodwell and/or Farlton, neither of which I've been to so it should be fun.
Anyway, it's not been entirely wasted. Last night I popped over to Blackstone Edge. I've been here a few times, but apparantly not since 2008, which surprised me, I hadn't realised it had been so long. I got there at about 6. the weather was quite sunny, but not too hot to make conditions too greasy. Before striking up to the edge, I took a detour into the White house quarry on the left . I had heard that this is being developed for the forthcoming guide. The initial bay contains a couple of nice slabs, unlikely to contain many hard problems, maybe 1 or 2 lines. interestingly there is a rusting peg on the higher wall - this place has clearly been climbed on for some time, which isn't surprising given the close proximity to the Pennine way. Another clue was '5c' painted in yellow at the base of a wall. hmm, font this ain't.
I continued on to the crag and went straight over to the Hueco blocks. I didn't expect to see anybody, especially as it was a Friday night, but there was one guy bouldering on the back edge near the engravings. I started on the 6a slab, which was my main aim actually, but just couldn't move on from the sloper. better footwork needed I think. I gave up on that and went over to the 6b problem on the steep side of the right hand block. This is only short, but is a really good couple of moves, and suits me as it goes off a good crimp. After a couple of misfires I got up (even without a dab *gasp*). it felt fairly stiff as there's not much for the feet.
then I went to the other side of the block to look at the 6a+ arete. I tried this last time I was here and just couldn't get the last move. It was this move that was frustrating me again. I spent ages with various methods, including heel hooking, but none of them worked. In the end all it needed was a long reach and a couple of adjustments and it was in the bag.
Next I did a couple of easy but enjoyable problems, and then had a look at the 6a arete to the right of the slab. Again, this beasted the skin and by this time I was pretty raw, but I got up it, utilising a high foot. Looking back at an old vid Nik is trying it with only the right hand, which would be impressive!
By this time it was getting on, not that I had any time constraints, but I had another look at the slab to see if I could figure it out. On the second go I managed to split three tips on my left hand which are now fairly sore...
So, a 6a, 6a+ and a 6b all in one session. Definitely the best performance of the year so far.
Day off today due to the rain, then hopefully tomorrow will be Woodwell and/or Farlton, neither of which I've been to so it should be fun.
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