Went down to the not-so-secret-crag-any-more to have a look at the work that I heard has recently been done. It's been a few weeks since I've been down, and the difference is quite big actually. There has been a lot more cleaning done on the right hand side and a really nice slanting crackline has appeared left of the waterfall exactly opposite Clowns Pocket. It was clearly chalked up adn no doubt has been climbed. looks like a short but sharp jamming VS. The crag is really starting to look like it'll be a nice venue, it's just the waterfall that is the real pain. I reclimbed a couple of problems I'd done ages ago, Tadpole, a crimpy 4c and Asturias, 4a. No doubt these will have already been claimed, but they're nice problems so I emailed them off to G anyway. We'll see if they make it in the new guide. There is some potential for some really thin slab climbing which could be quite hard, and some routes through overlaps - It's still a relatively friable place though, I pulled off two largish holds and crushed one with my foot...
I was pleased to see quite a bit of tree coverage has been removed from the face, it feels a lot airier and dare I say it, drier.