Brownstones.
Today I wasn't sure where I'd be due to various circumstances. Therefore although I put my stuff in the car I didn't plan on going anywhere. After work however the weather seemed great so I thought I'd go up to Brownstones for an hour after work. The slimer slab has had a clear shower of volcanic ash and as such is really gritty and slippy. Hopefully after a couple of showers no lasting damage will be done.
Every time I go to Brownstones I seem to see another broken hold or damage to the rock. There appears to be a broken hold on Verdigris, and Mantelstrug has had another chunk taken out of it.
I warmed up on the pond traverse and then Kip turned up. I wasn't expecting to see him actually, but he showed me a couple of good eliminates on Moss wall. After more bumbling around on the traverse I got onto Dynamic eliminate (Font 6a). I thought i did this last year, but I was using the big hold, not the smaller crimp on the left. Anyway, this felt too hard last year just using the left hand on the crimp, and the second dynamic move felt a bit tough. So I tried it tonight. I did it first go, the proper way. This pleased me really. For me it was all about just moving a bit quicker than I was doing, and I feel stronger this year.
Then I got onto the niche sitter (Font 6a), and just couldn't get it. according to the guide, this problem goes from the undercut, to crimps 3 and 4. crimp 4 is fine, but looking at the diagram, crimp 3 is too far to the left to make it 6a, it feels more like 6c this way. I think the diagram has marked the wrong hold, and looking at the vid on the wiki has confirmed this. Anyway, I wasted a bit of energy until I'd figured it out, and I couldn't even touch the left hand version. Feels nails...
Anyway, played about on the moss wall eliminates for a bit before heading home.
I've got so many problems to do here, I think I'll come back in the morning if the weather is nice.
Every time I go to Brownstones I seem to see another broken hold or damage to the rock. There appears to be a broken hold on Verdigris, and Mantelstrug has had another chunk taken out of it.
I warmed up on the pond traverse and then Kip turned up. I wasn't expecting to see him actually, but he showed me a couple of good eliminates on Moss wall. After more bumbling around on the traverse I got onto Dynamic eliminate (Font 6a). I thought i did this last year, but I was using the big hold, not the smaller crimp on the left. Anyway, this felt too hard last year just using the left hand on the crimp, and the second dynamic move felt a bit tough. So I tried it tonight. I did it first go, the proper way. This pleased me really. For me it was all about just moving a bit quicker than I was doing, and I feel stronger this year.
Then I got onto the niche sitter (Font 6a), and just couldn't get it. according to the guide, this problem goes from the undercut, to crimps 3 and 4. crimp 4 is fine, but looking at the diagram, crimp 3 is too far to the left to make it 6a, it feels more like 6c this way. I think the diagram has marked the wrong hold, and looking at the vid on the wiki has confirmed this. Anyway, I wasted a bit of energy until I'd figured it out, and I couldn't even touch the left hand version. Feels nails...
Anyway, played about on the moss wall eliminates for a bit before heading home.
I've got so many problems to do here, I think I'll come back in the morning if the weather is nice.
Feedback always welcome :-)
ReplyDeleteNever done it before today so never actually noticed before. Ah well, minor discrepancy in an otherwise excellent guide.Keep meaning to get more vids done for the wiki actually, maybe this year...
ReplyDelete