More Wilton stuff and mashed hand

Thursday 25th March - today was, quite frankly bloody knackering. I had a presentation to give in Cardiff and for some stupid reason I decided to drive it on the day. This meant leaving at 4:30 in the morning and due to delays I didn’t get down to Cardiff until gone ten. Luckily the meeting had been delayed as well which meant it wasn’t a wasted trip as I actually got to do what I intended to.
Anyway, I finished there at about 12:30 and then made my way back up – I had intended to get some climbing in at some point and loosely arranged with GCW to meet at Wilton 1 for some Snakey B climbage.
In the event, I didn’t get up there until nearly 5 and after spending a few minutes wandering aimlessly I finally located the Lanky one skulking over by at the Graveyard end. He was trying one of the eliminates – the quarry really could do with an updated guide building on the good work of the SouthLancs boys as there are almost certainly more eliminates and problems that have been done since. After warming up on the easiest jugs problem G showed me a 6b problem going from the slopey sidepull right to the sharp crimp round the corner then up the jugs – took me a couple of goes, but I got it in the end. The next one went from the pinch higher up round to the same crimp but I found this a bit knacky, I couldn’t seem to get the momentum in the right direction to pull up.
After a few goes I ended up taking a chunk out of my hand on the overhang, drawing blood and painful bruise – it didn’t really inhibit my crimping ability so I carried on climbing, but it was a clear sign to move onto something else, so moved over to the Snakey B wall.
GCW was looking strong on Thulsa Doom – his knacky sequence looks really awkward, but appears to be the best way for him to do the problem – in his efforts to create the Wilton Staircase G managed to pull the LH crimp off next to the jug. The rock about this area appears to have the constitution of cheese though, and this has created a much bigger hold which will make SB left hand easier and also probably TD. The resultant holds are very sandy and GCW has put some exterior protectant stuff in an attempt to fix them. Whether this is a lasting solution remains to be seen, but replacing the holds doesn’t look viable.
SB left hand looks fairly hard, but not impossible especially with the cheeky heelhook and I’m psyched to get this done. Had a brief look, but had to go before I could get into it.Depending on the hand (which has swelled a little and is bruised) I may have a look tonight or tomorrow.
I repeated Baby Fae again, and it all appears to depend on the state of the middle jug, i.e. if it’s greasy it’s a lot harder! Grade, who knows, I’d love it to be 6c but it’s likely to be 6bish.
I need to have a look at other stuff in the quarry as well, maybe Soot Monkey (V7), but this may well be out of my league…


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