Baby Fae crushed, Snakey B confusion
After various discussions on UKB here I decided to head down to Wilton 1 to take a look for myself at Snakey B, and also Baby Fae, an eliminate from Mr Emery and named by GCW.
I arrived at the crag at about 5:20 and got straight on to Baby Fae - It took a couple of goes to work out the start, but once I'd worked it out, I quickly realised that the crux is getting established on the intermediate juggy sloper. The right hand side of the hold is better than the left, so I concentrated on cranking at that end. The final reach looks impossible, but once established on the big hold it becomes reachable - I could do the two moves in isolation after a few tries and it didn't feel too hard so I went for the link up. After a couple of goes I nailed it. My method goes from the starting sidepull (great holds!!, then matches the big hold before getting my left toe on the top of the sharp sidepull and going for the jug. It was in the bag. There's a useful little crimp on the edge of the jug but I don't think it makes it any easier or harder. It felt hard, but not totally at my limit. GCW has given it 6c, personally I reckon it could be slightly easier, 6b/6c but then what do I know...
Then I had a look at Snakey B. There has been quite a bit of discussion as to where this route goes, and the various eliminates, there appears to be a right hand version, Snakey B itself and a left hand version. They seem to be fairly independent lines. I had a go at Snakey B which has an easy start from sitting, although the small LH crimp is a bit snatchy. I thought the small crimp above the overlap was out of bounds for Snakey, but looking at GCWs and Andi's vid they both use it, and I reckon that will make it a lot easier than the way I was doing it. Anyway if that crimp is any good it's just the last move to nail. Snakey RH looks like a good problem, but dodgy landing. When I get my video camera back I'll be getting these all taped hopefully.
Question is, how am I touching 6c/7as when I've struggled virtually all of last year and this year on 6a/bs??
I arrived at the crag at about 5:20 and got straight on to Baby Fae - It took a couple of goes to work out the start, but once I'd worked it out, I quickly realised that the crux is getting established on the intermediate juggy sloper. The right hand side of the hold is better than the left, so I concentrated on cranking at that end. The final reach looks impossible, but once established on the big hold it becomes reachable - I could do the two moves in isolation after a few tries and it didn't feel too hard so I went for the link up. After a couple of goes I nailed it. My method goes from the starting sidepull (great holds!!, then matches the big hold before getting my left toe on the top of the sharp sidepull and going for the jug. It was in the bag. There's a useful little crimp on the edge of the jug but I don't think it makes it any easier or harder. It felt hard, but not totally at my limit. GCW has given it 6c, personally I reckon it could be slightly easier, 6b/6c but then what do I know...
Then I had a look at Snakey B. There has been quite a bit of discussion as to where this route goes, and the various eliminates, there appears to be a right hand version, Snakey B itself and a left hand version. They seem to be fairly independent lines. I had a go at Snakey B which has an easy start from sitting, although the small LH crimp is a bit snatchy. I thought the small crimp above the overlap was out of bounds for Snakey, but looking at GCWs and Andi's vid they both use it, and I reckon that will make it a lot easier than the way I was doing it. Anyway if that crimp is any good it's just the last move to nail. Snakey RH looks like a good problem, but dodgy landing. When I get my video camera back I'll be getting these all taped hopefully.
Question is, how am I touching 6c/7as when I've struggled virtually all of last year and this year on 6a/bs??
Andi_e did Baby Fae a while ago it seems, but never named it. He's agreed to the BF moniker though.
ReplyDeleteEdit duly done
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