I woke up earlier than I normally would today as my shoulder was giving me some gip. As soon as I moved I was in agony. My right shoulder is very painful - it appears to be most painful just behind the collar bone although it's an excrusiating dull ache over my entire shoulder joint and when I move in certain directions I get a very sharp spasmodic pain.
I know when I must have done it - on Friday on 5.2%abv at WIlton one. This involves a fairly dynamic right hand slap up to a crimp. At the time I felt nothing, no pain or anything and even yesterday it was just a small ache but today the pain is excruciating.
I spoke to the Sister in law who is a doctor who examined it and said that the most likely diagnosis is rotator cuff muscle damage. I'm really hoping it is a muscular injury, if it's tendon related I can wave goodbye to climbing in Font. The reason I think it's not a tendon tear is firstly because there was no 'snapping point' followed by immediate pain, and also I have full movement (albeit painful movement). If I had snapped a tendon I don't think I'd be able to move my shoulder fully.
Looking at the diagram here it feels most painful along the supraspinatus muscle.
So here I am sat on the sofa having popped the Ibuprofen and icing the shoulder. Advice on is to rest for 3 weeks !! This I cannot possibly do. I have 7 days to get my shoulder right as it will put a real downer on the year if I can't climb in Font.
Needless to say I am not happy at all, and feel so bloody stupid at not having prevented this with stabilising exercises. Too late to shut the gate if the horse has already bolted eh.


  1. You'll be reet, yoof. A week to prepare yourself for the CRUSH!

  2. I hope you're right, I can barely hold a spoon.


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