Boopers Crushed at last

I've been to Brownstones a couple of times this week, as the impending autumn weather is on it's way and the light is fast fading. Once the clocks go back it's game over for climbing after work, at least for non-lantern sessions. At the moment I can still get over an hour in though, so on Monday I went primarily to try the Sloper problem, probably my most frustrating aim so far, and after warming up at the pond end I cracked straight on with it. The move now feels really natural although I still can't get it. I keep trying to alter my technique, but to no avail so I soon gave up. Then I tried a few of the classics at the top end, and surprised myself by getting to the jugs on Obscenity which felt surprisingly easy. As I was flying solo though, and had no spotter I wimped out of the top out. Then exactly the same thing happened on Boopers, I got to the break easily, and latched the two crimps, but didn't feel confident topping out without a spotter, instead I had visions of Helicoptere leg snapping footage, which was compounded by my mat feeling inordinately soft nowadays. I dropped on to the pad.

The only option was to head back with a spotter and pad, so I roped in Taffa and arranged to meet tonight, a couple of days later. When I got to the crag, Taff was already walking in so I quickly got me threads on and we got started.
One thing I'd noticed from the Monday was that as I had spent quite a long time warming up, I was much more steady (ok, bleedin obvious, but I hate warming up...), so I deliberately spent a while just getting moving on some easys, Blurt, Ash Pit Slab, couple of others and then failed a few more times on Satisfyng Sloper to warm up the crimp fingers. Once I was ready, we headed over to Boopers. After relatively little faffing I had a look at the top holds from the ground (having never got that far) and guessed they must be ok. I set off. For some reason this time it all clicked: The moves felt easy, even my left hand didn't crack in the break as I tried to get it out, and once I had my right foot on the goodish foothold and pulled up it was all over. Why on earth has this been so long coming? Barring some distinctly bad technique and a slight technical knee on the top out I felt like I bloody floated up the thing. It's funny when everything seems to just click into place. It's also odd how one day everything can feel hard, but the next you can seemingly get up anything. In any case, today was a good day and it means another one off the list.

Although it suited me, Font 6b+ is about as hard as I've ever climbed really. I guess you just need to choose your battles! It's ben a while coming, and feels awesome.

Video to follow as soon as I can get the firewire working...


  1. I see Boopers gets 6a+ in this months Climber article.

  2. I went by the font grades in the wiki guide. Do you think that's right? It didn't feel massively at my limit but I put that down to knowing the moves...

  3. I think it's tougher than a lot of 6a+s. Maybe it's 6b, who knows. Still a good effort Beast.


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