Le V2 Tour de Widdop
I had a morning free and G mentioned he was heading out on the Yorks grit and seemed up for giving a tour to the uninitiated. I’d never been to Widdop so it seemed a good choice, with plenty of stuff for a punter such as I.
I arrived criminally early as time was tight, and was at the crag by 9. The journey there was straightforward if a little confusing coming through Haggate – I had to ask directions from a funny little white bearded fellow. He knew his stuff though, as I was soon on track. The road to Widdop is pretty spectacular but was really foggy in the low sections. Incidentally on the M65 I was treated to a great cloud inversion in the hills to the left.
Anyhow, I digress… conditions were nice and cool and although the ground was wet it didn’t feel like it had rained. After being passed by several rotund people on overpriced bicycles I had a little scoot around the plantation boulders. Orienting myself, I started off with a V0- slab on the four square boulder. Then I tackled Red Edge Right (V2), which went after a couple of goes, a really nice balancy problem. Mr G then turned up after having lost what looks like a fair amount of blood whilst I fetched the midgey spray from the car. He’d been over to the left hand side of the crag and beasted a 7a problem (good work) and then spotted me on red edge left (V2) which was despatched after some consummate faffing (notably G managed to sail up all of these without pausing for breath!). After ticking Four Square (V2) and Four Square right hand (V1) we then headed to the Pickpocket's Crack (V3) which at first sight looked highball but is actually pretty friendly really as it’s nice and slabby. I had a jolly good time falling off until I twinged my finger on the evil mono. I’ve got the moves wired I think, but need the finger to feel better before trying again. I’m psyched for the tick though, so a revisit is in order.
Nik arrived with son and shiny yellow tractor, but after a while the little man (not Nik) had had enough, and the family-at-work departed after some Lank-related banter.
I then failed on Pond traverse (V3) (weird move!) and Splashdown (V4) on which I managed to sprain my wrist. Game over. After a brief chat with a chappo on Fight on Black (he nailed it) we left – me to head out for Lunch with Grandad Ken, G to find some esoteric impossibility. As if to mark my first visit to Widdop, two formations of the Red Arrows flew past which topped off the morning.
Here's the GCW vid of G climbing the 7a, and me falling off Pickpocket's Crack, but climbing Red Edge Left.
Post Script:
My wrist is very painful (morning after) even in spite of the copious ice packs last night. There is also considerable twinging whenever I curl my index or middle finger and I can barely put any pressure on without wincing. Pickpocket Injury it appears. Short of rest and strapping I’m not sure what else I can do. I’ve definitely done damage, but how much remains to be seen. More research is required I think, but I’m hoping it is just a mild sprain…
Conclusions / Guide rant
I really like the place, and it definitely warrants another visit. It doesn’t strike me as somewhere that would get swamped by people which is nice. One thing I couldn’t really reconcile is the grading in the Total-climbing guide. Both the red edges are given Font 6a but the concensus on YG is 5+ - fair in retrospect as they didn’t feel at my limit. The guide in general doesn’t seem to fit it’s purpose either. It's supposed to be utilitarian, not a lifestyle book! There is little access or approach information – the old (2001?) guide in comparison not only has more access / approach information, it has also got more of the problems in as well as other interesting non-climbing related info. Ok, photos are more inspirational/clearer in the TC guide maybe, but there seems less substance. Also, I can’t stand the wide format (à la Peak Bouldering), which isn’t as useable on-crag. Worth twenty notes? I’m yet to be convinced. Apologies for the waffle, ahem.
I arrived criminally early as time was tight, and was at the crag by 9. The journey there was straightforward if a little confusing coming through Haggate – I had to ask directions from a funny little white bearded fellow. He knew his stuff though, as I was soon on track. The road to Widdop is pretty spectacular but was really foggy in the low sections. Incidentally on the M65 I was treated to a great cloud inversion in the hills to the left.
Anyhow, I digress… conditions were nice and cool and although the ground was wet it didn’t feel like it had rained. After being passed by several rotund people on overpriced bicycles I had a little scoot around the plantation boulders. Orienting myself, I started off with a V0- slab on the four square boulder. Then I tackled Red Edge Right (V2), which went after a couple of goes, a really nice balancy problem. Mr G then turned up after having lost what looks like a fair amount of blood whilst I fetched the midgey spray from the car. He’d been over to the left hand side of the crag and beasted a 7a problem (good work) and then spotted me on red edge left (V2) which was despatched after some consummate faffing (notably G managed to sail up all of these without pausing for breath!). After ticking Four Square (V2) and Four Square right hand (V1) we then headed to the Pickpocket's Crack (V3) which at first sight looked highball but is actually pretty friendly really as it’s nice and slabby. I had a jolly good time falling off until I twinged my finger on the evil mono. I’ve got the moves wired I think, but need the finger to feel better before trying again. I’m psyched for the tick though, so a revisit is in order.
Nik arrived with son and shiny yellow tractor, but after a while the little man (not Nik) had had enough, and the family-at-work departed after some Lank-related banter.
I then failed on Pond traverse (V3) (weird move!) and Splashdown (V4) on which I managed to sprain my wrist. Game over. After a brief chat with a chappo on Fight on Black (he nailed it) we left – me to head out for Lunch with Grandad Ken, G to find some esoteric impossibility. As if to mark my first visit to Widdop, two formations of the Red Arrows flew past which topped off the morning.
Here's the GCW vid of G climbing the 7a, and me falling off Pickpocket's Crack, but climbing Red Edge Left.
Widdop again from GCW on Vimeo.
Post Script:
My wrist is very painful (morning after) even in spite of the copious ice packs last night. There is also considerable twinging whenever I curl my index or middle finger and I can barely put any pressure on without wincing. Pickpocket Injury it appears. Short of rest and strapping I’m not sure what else I can do. I’ve definitely done damage, but how much remains to be seen. More research is required I think, but I’m hoping it is just a mild sprain…
Conclusions / Guide rant
I really like the place, and it definitely warrants another visit. It doesn’t strike me as somewhere that would get swamped by people which is nice. One thing I couldn’t really reconcile is the grading in the Total-climbing guide. Both the red edges are given Font 6a but the concensus on YG is 5+ - fair in retrospect as they didn’t feel at my limit. The guide in general doesn’t seem to fit it’s purpose either. It's supposed to be utilitarian, not a lifestyle book! There is little access or approach information – the old (2001?) guide in comparison not only has more access / approach information, it has also got more of the problems in as well as other interesting non-climbing related info. Ok, photos are more inspirational/clearer in the TC guide maybe, but there seems less substance. Also, I can’t stand the wide format (à la Peak Bouldering), which isn’t as useable on-crag. Worth twenty notes? I’m yet to be convinced. Apologies for the waffle, ahem.
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