the rginns Lancashire ticklist

Up with the partridge.

2012-01-27T02:23:00.000-08:00

I've been listening to the audio cd of Alan Partridge's autobiography recently with immense enjoyment. Perfect driving listening.
Anyway, this week I've managed to get on the board twice, for about 45 minutes each time. No great training sessions, but enough to feel like I'm making forward progress, that's for sure. Consistency is key to this, so I need to keep it up.
Aside from the circuit of usual problems, I pretty much just randomly try moves that I think I can't do, then link them with others, making it up as I go along. Whilst this is enjoyable, I fear the lack of structure may be inhibiting...
So how do you effectively train on a woody? I guess each session needs to concentrate on one particular set of moves or position (i.e. open vs twisting, crimps vs slopers), or maybe a set duration i.e. repeaters of 25 continuous moves (about 6 laps of a board this size!!!) or something of this order.
I don't know, but at the moment I'm quite happy to just mix and match, I'm still feeling weak from the inactivity over Christmas. I'll need to up the variation though at some point, so I need to start planning for this..
I've got my eye on the Font trip in April which is paid up now, and I need to get focused.
I'm keeping a keen eye on this UKB thread for ideas. Hopefully this year it will all come together so I can actually crush...

Chuffing and a V5 flash

2012-01-17T15:28:00.000-08:00

So tonight I went to West View with JB. It was good to catch up , and the order of the day was mileage, no particular aims. Now its been probably over a year since I've tied on, so it was refreshing to have a change of scene. We warmed up on lots of easy routes and as the evening wore on it became increasingly busy. I haven't been to WV for quite a while, and in spite of it being rammed it was still relatively easy to get to routes.
Having warmed up, I was quite pleased to get up a 6b+, without it feeling particularly difficult at all- ok, so it was on a rope, not leading, but I'm happy with that. After an hour or two we did a bit of bouldering, doing a few V2 and 3s I managed to flash both a V4 and a V5, the first time I've ever done that I think. Looks like the board may start to be paying dividends... Then time was called and we left ...
All in all a good evening, good climbing and some good company.
.

Board sessions and Knowle Heights

2012-01-16T07:47:00.000-08:00

I've had a couple of fairly fruitful board sessions over the past couple of weeks, having made a concerted effort to try and get on the board even if it's only for half an hour or so to get the arms going.
The result is that I've got a reasonable circuit going that I can get on relatively regularly and this should start to bring gains in a couple of weeks or so.

Anyway, I managed to get out up to Knowle Heights quarry yesterday after a cracking forecast. R-man and GCW were both busy, so I headed up there on my own, arriving later than anticipated.
The weather was baltic, but the crag was actually in full sun, so although it was chilly, it wasn't too unpleasant. I set about trying the overhang which was the main aim. The crux seems to be going from the undercut crack (of which the right hand hold is now wider due to crumbling rock) up to a high small crimp, matching, and then somehow getting a high foot to go for the break.
This felt nails to me, probably as it targets my biggest weakness, core body strength, and I think I'll need to concentrate more on this if i'm to have any success.
As I was getting somewhat frustrated, I had another look around the rest of the quarry, and in the dry there looks like quite a bit to go at, in that dank, graffitied Lancs quarry type of way. Round to the left of the overhang, I climbed the left arete of a short diagonal crack, at about 4+/5 and then tried to climb the right arete, using the low block, with a springy starting move. I got my hand in the break and was just getting my feet high when my left hand pulled a hold off the break, I went catapulting backwards and landed on my arse and wrist.
I'm now nursing an annoyingly tender bruise on the lower part of my thumb. It's quite painful really. After that, I'd had enough and sacked it.
I definitely want to get fit for the overhang, it feel's a nice couple of moves really.
crappy vid to follow MAYBE.....

Offending hold.......

Reappraisal

2011-12-26T15:44:00.000-08:00

Apologies for the last post. Was just feeling a little negative about the situation...
It turns out things aren't that bad really, when one applies a little logic.
Anyway, yesterday of all days I managed to get on the board and managed about an hour and a half of good cranking. It felt brutal given that I've not been on for a bit, and no doubt it will be a while before I'm hitting the really small crimps, but it felt really good to be back doing something, albeit not a great deal..
I'm feeling really positive about finally getting 7a done soon. We're past the shortest night of the year now, and if I can keep some momentum up with the board, it'll get done.
On a separate note, I've finally got the new lathe up and running and can finally start getting some of the cherry and laburnum worked, I can't wait. Finally at 3200 rpm, nice! makes a decent task during rests on the board, aye!

Where's it all gone wrong...

2011-12-21T14:13:00.000-08:00

So, here I am, in bed with a fever, hacking sore throat and general lethargy. What with the recent cocktail of long days at work, shitty weather, getting fat at kids birthday parties, getting fat eating hotel food working away, I really didn't need an illness on top.
Ok, i might be being a little melodramatic, but this situation does stink. It feels like I've not been climbing in ages, and I've certainly not done any training lately. It's almost worse knowing that the woody is in the garage, but I haven't had the time or inclination to use it recently.
In the new year things have got to change I think, the Font trip is booked for easter, so I need to start cranking sometime soon If I've any hope of achieving my goals next year.
I guess I could sum up by saying I'm generally pissed off with my climbing, or lack of it recently...

I wish it would stop raining soon, and I can get back on the projects,

Quarry exploration...

2011-12-12T14:55:00.000-08:00

I had the day off today, and a day of exploration was planned…
I met GCW and R-man at ten to check out a small quarry I’d never been to before, and we walked to the crag, in spite of the forbidding signs warning to Keep out. After getting mis-routed, we found the crag and on first sight it looked a mixed bag. There was the obvious off-width crack that is already documented, but more interesting than that was a low roof that could well yield four or five decent lines.
Unfortunately everything was wet…
Further right there was also a decent looking wall, probably another couple of lines, and also to the left, although this was clearly dirtier and could do with having a tree lopped.
Certainly something to come back to – typical esoterica, but with potential nonetheless.
Next, after some indecision, we headed off to Duxon, a recently discovered crag near Brindle that R-man visited last week. The main crag is unfortunately mostly covered by a lake, and needs a lot of cleaning for it to become inspiring. Picture lots of loose rock and brambles… Further round there was quite a nice short section of rock that could harbour a few problems and was reminiscent of a micro Brownstones. I climbed a small groove from standing, then sitting, and R-man then climbed the crimpy wall to the left, not sure of the grade or name, but given the state of the wall it has certainly not been climbed before.

Pinfold and Deeply

2011-12-05T13:45:00.000-08:00

I found myself free for a couple of hours yesterday and GCW mentioned that him and R-man were heading back up to Billinge after a successful potential problem hunt and had decided to do a bit of exploratory cleaning.
By the time I managed to get out it was nearing 2pm. GCW texted to say they were heading off by that time.
I decided therefore to head over to Pinfold to check out the bouldering there, as there are some problems described on the left hand side. After getting a bit mis-routed getting there, I eventually found where to park (not masses of parking) and walked in. Unsurprisingly everything was sodden. I tramped through the fields on the way in and found the quarry, hidden around near a small valley.
The bouldering hereabouts is on a terrace on the left and on first sight actually looks relatively clean and of good quality. It was all wet though, so nothing was going to get climbed, but definitely will be worth going back to.
At this point I started to walk over to the other side of the quarry, but got in between a calf and it's mother. Now , cows aren't renowned for their intelligence, and I wasn't going to wait around to see whether it realised I was no threat, and this cow was pretty pissed off at this point so I beat a hasty retreat.
I tried to go round over the hill, but was faced with a Bull and a couple more cows, so gave it up as a bad job.
There is a small wall below the terrace which could yield one problem, but it isn't very inviting to be honest...

It was time to beat a retreat before I got run through, so I ran away.

Next up, I wanted to head to Deeply Vale, as I had heard there were several walls with bouldering potential.
I arrived at the crag, but was pretty disappointed really. There doesn't seem to be much that isn't either quite trad-like, or otherwise easy and non-distinct.
Having rooted around for a bit I decided to take a shortcut back over the field to the car and proceded to get stuck in a swamp. Nice.
Hopefully one day it won't be wet...

Blackstone Edge vid

2011-11-22T04:10:00.001-08:00

Blackstone Edge

2011-11-21T05:10:00.000-08:00

Blackstone Edge is an awesome crag, situated high on the moor above littleborough and I had planned on meeting up there with a few people yesterday.
The weather wasn't looking promising as I left the house, and a call from Bruce confirmed that the crag was shrouded in mist.
Nevertheless the weatherforecast looked as though it would clear out later on, so it was still worth the risk.
The idea of todays visit was to see what bouldering problems were 'done years ago and try to reconcile them with the latest information.
The cloud didn't look like it was disappearing and as I arrived I went straight past the first carpark and had to brake sharply to avoid shooting past the second. Visibility was virtually zero. Bruce was already there when I arrived and we got chatting while we waited for the others.
GCW arrived, then R-Man, and Gordon, and we all trudged up to the crag.
As we were walking up, the cloud was dipping into the valley, creating a great cloud inversion with the crag popping up out of the clouds.
I tried to get a photo, but it didn't really come out too well.
The plan was to head to the trig point, and then work our way back, but as we were going past the back edge, we detoured off to have a look.
This looks like a really good little area, with lots of problems, many of them easy, others look desparate. Certainly a bigger area than I've noticed before, there are probably 30 problems hereabouts.
We went over to the trig point, and worked along the crag, with Bruce pointing out what he knows has been done for years, and other stuff that as far as he knew was new.
After we'd been along most of the crag, we finished up at the Hueco blocks as GCW wanted to have a look at Ape Hour (7a+) and I wanted to have a look at the slab (6a) which I consummately failed at last time I came here. Well, psyche was definitely low, as I couldn't get up it again, although R-Man climbed it with ease as he did the right arete.
He then proceded to climb Ape Hour (7a+) after managing to persuade his body to actually latch the holds...
GCW wasn't getting very far on Ape Hour, so we decided to move over to the right hand side of the crag boulders. Gordon and Bruce were warming up hereabouts and pointed us up a couple of nice problems, both at about 5+, and then we did a nice short overhanging prow involving a hideous heel hook udging move which it wasn't possible to make look graceful.
After then trying a problem involving a ridiculous dynamic move from sitting, we worked out way back over to the others. By this time R-Mans friends had arrived having been tempted away from Stanage for a bit of Blackstone action and were busy on the Hueco blocks looking strong andtrying various link-ups.

I then went back over to the trig point to look at various problems - I really want to return and do some of these, there look to be some quality lines.
By this time, G had given up on Ape Hour as a bad do, and wanted to point me at double arete, which he described as being 'the best problem at Blackstones'. By this time however, the skin wasn't fareing too well, and I couldn't get up it - next time I think I'll start on this as it did feel like a good problem.
Not long after we headed off, but I believe Fridge Hugger (7b+) got a couple of ascents from R-Man and the Sheffield raiders. Impressive.

Beacon Hill

2011-11-08T03:05:00.000-08:00

Last week I was working in Lutterworth, and the wife had a baby shower to go to on the Sunday in the area, so I decided to find somewhere to climb.
Leicestershire isn't too well endowed with climbing, and when I lived there we used to always head further afield, but I decided to give Beacon Hill a try as it was close, and looked like the best option in the circumstances.
I paid £2.50 to get into the carpark, which was a bit annoying, and parked up. Wandering up to the first crag, it was apparant that the rock, which is apparantly Hornstone was horrendously polished in places, and unnervingly greasy.
It reminded me of the polish at Hutton Roof. Actually, the routes were not too dissimilar either, mainly beinjg easy trad solos. I wouldn't really describe it as a bouldering venue as it does in the guide as most of the routes are pretty easy and the harder ones have a definite trad feel about them.
After looking at the summit crag, I moved down to crag number 4 which had a nice couple of problems, the best of which Bow VD, giving some nice moves. Then, moving back up to summit crag I climbed all of the easy routes hereabouts, Prop VD, Is there a better way S4a, Marine D, Fire S4a, Shaft D, and then moved round the corner I climbed Slippery slabs VD.
By this point it was getting dark, and we needed to get back up to Bolton too, so I left, picked the better half up and we headed back.
All in all it was quite an enjoyable afternoon, soloing about -I've never climbed on Hornbeam before but it's quite limestoney really. Shame about the polish.
As for Leicestershire rock, it appears there are a few other crags in the area so they may well be in for a visit if I happen to be passing through again...

Brimham

2011-10-31T09:12:00.001-07:00

Apparantly it's been over a month since I've posted anything on the blog - I guess I have been pretty busy lately though, I spent a week working in France driving down to Marseille with various stop offs on route, although I had no free time to head off and climb anything unfortunately. Then I was in Glasgow for a couple of days, then Lutterworth and then a week in Torridon on holiday with the Family.

So all in all I've spent a lot of time away from home recently. Hopefully over the next few weeks I'll be able to get back into the swing of things and get back on with a bit of training.

Last week however before I went on holiday, I managed to head up to Brimham for a rare Yorkshire visit with the G-Man. I arrived after a rather stressful morning, and soon got lost among the jumbles of rocks - I still find this place almost impossible to navigate, but hey...
After a while I eventually found the Pommel area and dispatched quite a few of the easier problems hereabouts, a really good warm up actually, it's been a while since I've ventured onto slopey gritstone, so it was enjoyable.
I then climbed some 5 or other to the right of these easys up two horizontal breaks which provided a really nice set of moves.
After failure on Back Dog Arete and a very greasy Hanging flake, we moved on to the Hole in the Wall area.
We tried the 7a overhang problem via a surprisingly secure Heel/Toe hold on the right - I could reach the lip of the overhang, but found matching it impossible - I really need to work on my core muscles... Gareth managed to crush after not too long via the lanky method. To be fair this probably makes it a good 2 grades easier, I was disappointed to see he was unable to do it by the conventional method.
I flashed a 6a problem to the right of this (can't remember the name) and then we moved over to Pair in a Cubicle area, G was looking strong on PAir in a Cubicle and really should have nailed it, although conditions weren't all that great.
After plenty of procrastination I managed to climb Murky Rib 6b - lovely problem actually...

Brimham from GCW on Vimeo.

Wiltonia

2011-09-28T14:30:00.000-07:00

So after work I had to go over to Yorkshire to pick up a lathe but I wanted to see the new problems that gcw had done up at Wilton 1. I only had twenty minutes or so by the time I got there. These new problems are on the block opposite the main wall, ( Grey Wall?) a quite innocuous wall that you would normally walk past. I recognised it from all the broken holds, so I knew this was where G had been!!
First I got on the right hand wall, (font 5) which involves an enjoyable move out right and then up although I avoided the top out through getting mangled by the remnants of last years burnt heather.
Then I climbed left arête (font 5), topping out this time, a nice set of moves really. I then had a look at the dyno (6a) and after a few goes latched it, not very stylishly admittedly, legs flailing leftwards. This feels harder than it is as it's slightly slabby, making you feel like your legs are going to clatter against the wall...
Lastly I had a go at the 6b undercut problem but I didn't get on with it, I could barely get off the ground, but then I am pretty shit at underclings. This felt nails...anyway by then it was time to go. Gradings seem fair to me, think I need to be training the undercuts though...
Good to see r-man and G still foraging for routes with some success, the Wiltons are well overdue a mini guide.

The next few weeks are going to be really manic. After working in Spain last week I'm in Oxford at the weekend, then leave to work on a project in marseille on Monday for 6 days, then see the family for a day before heading up to Glasgow to manage a job up there, then straight down to Lutterworth for two days... It looks like I'll be out of action for two weeks at least, and work doesn't seem to be easing up at all... Bring on the grit season. That reminds me, I still need to get the bloody hv20 fixed, it still won't work but I have no idea what to do for the best...

Crushboard finished... sort of.

2011-09-28T04:33:00.001-07:00

Well, I've finally finished the board - I finished it some time ago, but haven't got round to getting a post done. The top board was difficult. I had to mount it on my own , which meant rigging a hoist from the ceiling and man-handling the board so it aligned with the board below.
I cut out the spaces for the rafters to maximise the length of the board and prayed that they fit properly. If they hadn't, I would have been back to square one!
So in the end I managed to get it to fit, although on the far end no matter what I did, the board just wouldn't sit flush with the diagonal beams - so, currently it's sitting just under a cm off the beams.
I used the over-engineering principle and set to screwing as many screws as I possibly could to ensure that it doesn't actually go anywhere, so in spite of this minor fault, the board is now complete.
I took the photo below about 3 weeks ago - since then I've been adding holds as quick as I can carve them, using off-cuts of ply, standard 2x4 and various other timbers that the previous occupants left in the garage to produce a variety of crimps, small jugs, huge jugs and flat holds.
I attached the metolius holds and the other resin holds I bought and now it's looking pretty good.

I've been trying to get on the board a few times a week for an hour or so, but sometimes it's only possible to get 30 or 40 mins in. I need to be careful not to get injured.
I've noticed when I haven't warmed up that my middle fingers ache after a session, but the last few times I've made an effort to warm up properly and this doesn't seem to happen.

Widdop

2011-09-12T01:35:00.000-07:00

Yorkshire gritstone again.
Two weeks ago I managed to get over to Widdop. John fancied getting out and all things considered I wanted to make an effort, given that his availability is severely restricted.
I turned up to pick up JB and found that Chris had put in an appearance, and we were to pick up JB's mate who I can't remember the name of cos it was two weeks ago.
Anyway, short and tail of it was we ended up getting over to Widdop by about 9.30, and made our way up to the crag.
The original intention had been to go tradding, but it appears that JB had chosen the most damp, humid and generally sweaty day possible to visit the crag.
It had also been raining almost continuously for the past week, so the moss on the main crag was looking as luminous as ever.
With an overwhelming sense of enthusiasm we went up to the crag and shuffled about making non-commital noises and generally pro-crastinating. We decided to head over to look at the boulders to give the main crag a chance to dry up for a bit and as I know the bouldering circuit quite well I wanted to show them what was what.
We started off on the easy side of the boulder with pickpocket slab on it and even these felt incredibly greasy.
After a bit we moved round to the boulder opposite the red wall problems and did the dynamic problem in the centre of the wall and the arete to the right.
Today was not a day for hard problems...
After a brief discussion on whether or not to toprope Umpleby arete, the boulders were written off as a bad job and we made our way over to the main crag.
I pointed Chris and JBs mate who I can't remember the name of cos it was two weeks ago up the original route as
1. It's the classic of the crag,
2. It looked like the least covered-in-luminous-death-moss route on the whole crag.
and 3. Getting round the bulls horns is, "entertaining".
So while they got on with that, me and JB decided to do a route round to the right that I can't remember the name of cos it was two weeks ago. Went up a crack and slabby thing at about VDiff but felt about HVS in the circumstances.
Might have well as been on rollerskates.
Filled with total excitation at doing this route, I could barely contain myself to get more routes done, but alas, we'd spent nearly 4 hours at the crag, and I had to get off.
Still, I learnt a lot by this trip:
a. I like climbing with JB, and need to get him out a bit more when circumstances allow.
b. Don't go to Widdop on the most airless, muggy, warm day of the year after 40 days of continuous downpours.
c. I should go chuffing more often. It appears I enjoy it more than I think.

Earl Crag

2011-08-30T01:39:00.000-07:00

It's been a while since I've visited Yorkshire gritstone and I had a free morning yesterday so decided to head up to Earl crag.
I've never been up to Earl before, and supposedly it's a good crag to visit at this time of year, in other words it's bloody cold in winter,nay unclimbable.
I arrived at the tower and having never visited the crag before I cut straight down to the crag and decided to work my way along from left to right (facing out).
This turned out to be a mistake, firstly because there weren't many problems I wanted to do at this end due to the shocking landings and general highball nature of the problems, and secondly to traverse to the other end involves scrambling across jumbles and jumbles of rocks strewn everywhere.
It didn't seem to be a very friendly crag and by now I was quite pissed off and grumpy. I was short of time.. Eventually I made it to the low block right of trick arete area, and set to on the sistart on the right which goes straight from the jug to the top. In the Total climbing guide this is given 6b, but it felt a lot easier (the more I use this guide, the more I dislike it...). I flashed it.
Then I tried the 6a to the left which involves going off the jug, left to a pocket, then a big move to the arete and up. Really nice problem, I enjoyed this.
Next I tried Trick arete (6b), but could barely even get off the ground. This seems a bit knacky, so I gave it up as a bad job. I moved on.
The sloping beauty area was next, and I got on to the Hanging Groove - 6b or 6c for the true sitstart. This felt nails and although I made progress, think it's one to come back to.
I was really impressed by the quality of the rock at Earl, in spite of getting a bit wound up at actually moving about the crag, and definitely think it would be worth a revisit.
After a scout about further along I had to go, so clambered up to the top path and went home.
Next time I think this is the way I'll come in...

Craig Y Longridge

2011-08-24T13:49:00.000-07:00

I had a meeting in Cumbria today and in spite of the weather fancied getting out climbing. As I came down the M6 the weaather was looking grim, and the only viable plan was going to be Craig Y Longridge.
GCW had grand plans for the weekend that necessitated lots of packing, so was not available to crush, and I remembered that Tom lives a stones throw from CyL so decided to see if he was free. In the event he was indeed free and in spite of having to attend to a calf with a hernia, he managed to make it on time.
I arrived at around fourish and although it was raining, the crag was bone dry, aside from some of the footholds on the right hand side.
We starteed off by looking at a 6b problem that Tom has been working on recently although it became apparant that this was a bit too much of a shock to the system to tackle straight off.
We headed over to the tarot plane area and had a look at Seven A (font 6a) and I flashed it, actually finding it pleasant. Tom all but nailed it too, just not matching the top. Then we looked at Haardvark (font 6a), a really satisfying problem, going off two small holds to a shelf followed by a big move to another shelf. This took a couple of goes, but are really satisfying moves once the shelf is latched.
Then we tried Bomb squad (6a+) but my heart wasn't in it. By this time I wanted to take a look at Tarot Plane, the traverse from Icefall direct to the left of the crag.
The first few moves are really satisfying, with an awesome heel-toe jam, but I found them quite tricky to link, and I opted for the low version, probable a mistake, as maybe it would have been easier higher.
We basically flogged this until it was time to leave. Not a bad session, given my lack of fitness at the moment, and I'm keen to get back on Tarot plane - what a problem! It deserves a french sport grade I reckon, if it goes to the end of the crag...
It was good to se Tom out, bearing in mind his recent mishap at Hoghton which left him dangling unconscious and upside down from a rope over Rhododendron buttress recently.
Epic... it doesn't seem to have affected him too much though, so keep crushing Tom!

Speaking of Hoghton, I've heard recently that a lot of the bolts are being replaced, seemingly propogating the curiously Lancastrian bolting policy of "like for like". I'm not sure I agree with this blanket policy, surely the best scenario would be to assess the suitability of the bolt rather than blindly replacing it? Especially when it comes to belay bolts where there is already plenty of gear at the belay.
If someone creates a precedence by placing a bolt, especially when the area's climbers aren't in agreement, surely there should be more consultation as to whether the bolt should actually be repalced or not when said bolt starts to decay...?

Wilton 1 and CrushBoard progress.

2011-08-19T01:14:00.000-07:00

R-man has been busy lately in the Wiltons, repeating previous lines and climbing new ones. Last night I went to check it out with GCW and see what all the fuss was about. As I left work it started to rain, and didn't look good. Having seen the weather earlier in the day I thought it should clear out though so decided it was worth the risk.
The Postmans Daughter' sitstart felt absolutely impossible, another R-man signature problem, and after a brief look at the others we moved on to the Prow. It started raining again after a brief let up and things weren't looking good...
Nappy Rash looks like a worthwhile problem but was wet... G was having a go at the 7a to the left of Beneath deception, without too much success, although at least that was dry.
We did Clamp, 6a+ and Flywalk 6b, both good problems.
After a while it became apaprant that not much more was going to get done so we went over to the Snakey B wall, I had a go at SB which I still couldn't do, and the G-man crushed SB left hand and Baby Fae.
Then we ran away. Not the best of conditions it must be said...

Crush Board:

So all of the tee-nuts have been tapped in and I've checked the thread of each of them, and now the bottom two boards have been mounted.

So all that remains to be done is to attache the top board and make some more holds from off cuts and arrange them.
I'm pleased so far, just eager to get it finished...

West View

2011-08-09T01:11:00.000-07:00

GCW fancied getting out and I had a pass last night. As the weather was crap we opted for an indoor session and West View was the venue of choice.
I ended up being later than I hoped due to underestimating the time it would take to get there, and as I arrived G was tucking into a large flapjack. It was quieter than usual (although it is summer) so it wasn't too hot. We warmed up on a few of the V1s and 2s and then I had a short rest a la Niks advice.
I then did a couple of V4s and flashed a V5 which I was pretty pleased with bearing in mind my lack of fitness. The rest of the session involved trying the other V5s but alas it wasn't to be.
G was looking as lanky as ever, mostly reaching past the hard moves. I think he managed a V6 flash too, which is not bad going although he foolishly dropped another.
While we were there there were a couple of young girls, between 8 and 11 I'd say, leading up the overhanging wall on 6bs/6cs. I was really impressed, there was no faffing about, they were just cracking on with it - the only thing holding them back was reach! Inspiring stuff indeed.

Rivelin and the CrushBoard

2011-08-08T01:37:00.000-07:00

Last weekend saw a return to trad with a visit to rivelin. Alas, the slab was not on the list, but there are plenty of worthwhile trad routes to be had.
I picked Ken up at around 8 and we got to Outside just before it opened at half nine. The plan was to meet the Welsh contingent there and decide on a plan. I quite fancied a look at the millstone bouldering, Owler tor, Mother Cap etc, but it was really rather warm, so the concensus was to go trad climbing, and luckily I had the gear to cover all eventualities.
On my way out of Outside I bought a new pair of 5.10s, this time in size 8 as the 7.5s were pretty tight last time, and uncomfortable after a while. We'll see how these ones compare. I was very surprised at how much climbing shoes have gone up in the last year or so, it seems you need to spend upwards of £100 to get a decent pair, especially in a retail outlet. I don't know whether it's the rubber prices or what but they are quite expensive nowadays...
So Blacky, Steve and Darryl arrived from the borders and we made our way over to Rivelin.
I've been here a couple of times, the last time was in February when it was absolutely freezing and among other things, we did Rodney's Dilemma then, a nice but necky Severe (if there is such a thing) which felt nails at the time. This time, however, it just flowed and was fine.
There are some good routes here, and I must admit to a bit of trepidation before arriving. Apart from the odd day, it has been well over a year since I've been trad climbing regularly, so I was mildly pleased to find most of the routes we did fairly pleasant.
It's such a different game. Just getting used to carrying a load of gear up a route felt quite strange to be honest, not to mention the need to carefully read the route for gear before getting on it.
Luckily however I found that my gear placements were as solid as they've always been (I don't think you lose that sort of thing very quickly) and climbing above gear felt better than I previously remember.
Pulling on small holds for a couple of years or so, even with my recent inactivity seems to have paid dividends, as the majority of the holds felt massive.
It was great to see Blacky and the others, and I enjoyed it more than I thought I would. Should circumstances provide the opportunity I'd be keen to go more often. The problem is, my window of opportunity for climbing often lends itself to bouldering as a lot more climbing is acheived in an hour or two by going bouldering rather than getting one or two routes done.

But you only get better at something by doing it more, which is the paradox!

Climbing is a broad church, I guess that's one of the reasons I love it, and I always forget that roping is what I did for the first 8 years I climbed. However, what with JB wanting to get out more, I might be inclined to go tradding a bit more.

Anyhow, regarding the CrushBoard (tm) Here's the latest progress...

Kickboard now on
Rest of the ply has been grid-drilled (6 rows / 11 columns)
Holds have arrived (Metolius slopers/warm up jugs/and a set of crimps)

So all that needs doing is the tee nuts being tapped into place, ply boards mounted and holds attached. I've decided against the Moonboard set up although the angle and grid is the same. I need to make more holds from the off-cuts I've got to vary the holds, which should be straightforward...
I've made quicker progress than expected on this, so I'm pretty pleased.

more progress...

2011-07-27T01:26:00.000-07:00

So I had some spare time last night and cracked on with project crush board.
Now it's looking better, the frame is now complete, with all five diagonals and support beams fixed.
Next step is to drill the holes in the ply to receive the tee nuts and then mount the boards and bolt holds to it.
About half way there I reckon...

From outside garage...
From inside..............

Board

2011-07-26T02:34:00.001-07:00

Any spare time that would otherwise have been spent out climbing has been spent recently sorting the garage for the crush board. Progress so far...

One diagonal beam cut for checking the correct length
All other diagonal beams cut to the same length
horizontal support beams measured and cut to shape
Kickboard frame cut, constructed and bolted to wall
mid-wall beam bolted to wall.

Actually now that I have pretty much all of the wood cut to the correct size apart from the ply, it is proving fairly quick to construct. I now have three of the diagonal beams in place. Having never constructed anything like this before it is quite a learning curve for me - naively I thought I would be able to screw straight into the rafters without any pilot holes but even with the corded drill this is impossible, so now the process involves lining up a diagonal, nailing it in place, drilling three holes through the beam, taking it down, drilling through the rafter, replacing the beam, then using the drill to insert the screw so it goes through fully. I'm using 4 inch screws so they are protruding the whole way through the 4x2 and the rafter, then also screwing one from the other side.
When combined with the cross bar, this feels really solid. I reckon one more evening and the frame will be completed. I've ordered the tee nuts, so just the bolts to get in terms of hardware, and I think I'll order some holds later this week.
I've got shed loads of random timber lying about too, so am looking forward to creating some holds from that too...

Bits and bobs

2011-07-13T05:03:00.000-07:00

Well, not much of any great shakes has been happening at this end...
I went to Cadshaw last week which was a bit of an anti-climax. I was expecting the conditions to be good as it had been raining in the day - as it turns out, this wasn't an issue actually - conditions were reasonably ok.
The problem turned out to be the swarm of midges that greeted me as I arrived at the crag. Anyway, this is all starting to sound like an excuse. The bottom line was that I got back on to the problem I seem to have been trying for the last year, Brian Jacques and felt awful on it. The move to the good crimp which I've only managed to do once felt impossible.
I might have to shelve this problem until I am a bit stronger or when I can get more mileage, which has been an issue of late.
Tuesday saw a visit to Healey Nab, a pretty esoteric little venue a little further than Anglezarke. It's quite a scruffy little crag with the ubiquitous litter and graffiti, but there are a few quality problems on generally good quarried grit.
I arrived a little earlier than expected at about a quarter to 6 and was dismayed to find that several fires have been lit here in the recent past - unsurprisingly it seems to attract I assume teenagers who tend to litter the place and cause fires, throw bottles etc.
I warmed up on the easy chipped wall in the grabadabadoo area and then did the traverse (Andys traverse?) at about V1.
The problem I really wanted to look at was grabadabadoo itself which is supposedly V4/6c/6c+ ish. I had a look at the sitstart and couldn't even pull on - I tried using the arete and the minute right facing sidepull but I couldn't pull on - the ground slopes the wrong way which doesn't help, and it just felt unpleasant.
I gave this up as a bad shout and moved on to coolboy slap. This has been given 5+ in the past, but having done it from a proper sitter I reckon it's more like 6a. Interestingly I had to get really set up to pop for the top but once the move was done it felt solid.
Then I had a look at 'Ppo', a 6a problem to the right which climbs a lovely little prow - this problem is quality, I really enjoyed it - it feels really off balance at first, but it was actually fine and all the holds are there - I did use the good sidepull out left, which I can only assume is in, and the top out was an interesting mantle..
Time got the better of me and I had to go, picking up two bottles, a crisp packet and two odd strips of rubber before I left. I might bring a bag out next time.
I'm keen to get back there. Incidently across country it's only actually 20 minutes away, I thought it'd be a lot further away than that - promising stuff...

On other news, I've finally managed to get rid of the asbestos which was still in the garage - it's now residing at the tip. In addition to this I've installed a new work surface and moved a few things about - the next stage is to start the woody - I think although I'm not going to have the space to build a full size version, I'm going to build the moon board. Most of the tee nuts are actually free once you set up the moonboard so lots of other holds can be added for my own problems. I just think that having the moon board will force me to try harder moves by giving them relative gradings. Plus it pushes the angle up a notch to 40 degrees which can only be a good thing.I still think I'll have enough headroom for 3/4 of the moon board which is good enough for me. The wood is now bought so it's just a case of finding the time to get it done....

Here's the garage before:

Here's the garage now...

Best Font performance yet.

2011-06-15T15:10:00.000-07:00

So, I've got a couple of meetings in the Paris area this week, and it just so happens that todays meeting ended early so I was able to head round the peripherique and down to Fontainebleau. I suppose I had actually engineered it really, but it is true that I do have to be in Paris for work, and as I'm in the area, well, why not make the most of it?
I got to Franchard Isatis by about 3 pm and the weather was nice and warm. I thought it would be too warm, but luckily it wasn't, and much of Isatis is in the shade anyway.
I warmed up on a couple of easy problems, Orange I think and then set to with the reds and blue circuits.
It's been over a year since I've been to font, but I love this place. It's very calming to be back in the forest again even if I did only have half a day.
I got a few of the red and blue problems done, and was surprised to note that even on a Wednesday afternoon it was still pretty busy. Not as busy as it would have been at Easter, but nevertheless it was not quiet.
I've never been to Isatis before, but I was fairly impressed. The problems are all quite varied, even though I was expecting it all to be a crimp-fest.
I'd had enough of Isatis after a while and fancied something different so I headed over to Bois Rond, another place I've never been to. This circuit struck me as a bit more rugged than Isatis however it was still fairly busy. After some faffing about on problems I couldn't do, namely Little Shakespeare with it's tiny crimps and deft footwork needed I finally looked at a problem I thought I might do. Red number 9 is called Friction et Realite and takes a diagonal sloping groove up to a niche.
After a couple of tries I really thought I could nail this, so I got teh crush cam out only to find that it was not working. No idea why, but its probably a battery issue, ironically.
Forgetting that, I got back on the problem and crushed it the next go.
This is the first time I've climbed a 6a in the forest, and fairly easily too. Ok, so it's hardly significant, but for me it is, bearing in mind I've never climbed this hard in Font, and I do find the style of climbing pretty hard to get to grips with.
after this, I tried Theorie des nuages, which is a line that traverses a roof and then climbs an overhang.
After a couple of goes I could get along the roof ok, but found it incredibly difficult to hold the swing on the final jug, as it's so undercut and quite a reach.
Eventually I could hold the swing, but then couldn't move up to the mono. Looking on Bleau.info I can see from the pictures that I should probably have been getting in a sneaky heelhook on the good handhold. This actually sould have made my life a lot easier.
Ah well, I guess 6a and 6a+ on an afternoon at Font would have been asking too much...
Finally I decided to head over to Bas Cuvier as I've wanted to have a go at Marie Rose for a while, but also it's somewhere else I've never been too. As I was walking out, G texted to suggest another problem at Bois Rond, but I was nearly at the carpark so decided to head straight over to bas.
I really like the feel of this place, it's really open and friendly, and although a lot of the problems are fairly high, there are so many to be had.
After a brief look at Marie Rose, I was disappointed. I was expecting a classic problem only to find a lot of polish. I guess that should be expected due to it's historic status.
By this time I was clearly past my best as I failed on a couple of 5cs and didn't climb anything else of note.
It was nearing 9pm anyway so I headed back north and am now sitting here in a hotel in the north of Paris, wishing I had another 4 days to crush in Font.
Alas, as is often the way with these things, you've got to take it when it comes I suppose.
Well, I suppose as a consolation for the May Font trip I had to cancel, I'll take that any day of the week. It's made even more enjoyable by the fact it's supposed to piss it down tomorrow.
I did have an enjoyable afternoon, although I must say that it would have been made even more enjoyable with some company. Bouldering at the best venue in Europe is great, but it would have been nice to share it.
So tomorrow I'll be at the Peugeot-Citroen factory. I know the Leyland trucks plant in the UK fairly well, and I've been tot he Toyota factory in Onnaing so I'm interested to see if they have a different set up to those plaaces... being French, I dare say they do...!

30 today

2011-06-06T14:10:00.000-07:00

Well today I turn 30.
Christ it's all down hill from here...
Whenever you reach a milestone inevitably it leads you to think about acheivements and where you are at that given point.
My one score and ten has not meant I've climbed 7a yet, nor have I onsighted E1, but I have my health, a good job, a nice house and I'm generally happy. Not only that, but the summer is coming, and I can't wait, my favourite time of the year.
Anyway, I digress. Yesterday was also a good day. I had unexpectedly found myself free for a couple of hours before a christening and so decided to head over to Cadshaw, G-man was psyched for some eliminate quarry shizzle adn I haven't been on Brian Jacques for a few weeks. Shortly before I left it started raining, so a last minute change of plan meant we met at Wilton 1 -it was, however tanking it down, and given the friability of the Snakey B wall and the fact that Gareth keeps pulling the bloody wall down anyway meant that climbing was not a viable option. Therefore we headed back over the valley to Cadshaw.
This is where Cadshaw conditions conspire to confuse, as ever.
This place is weird.
Now it really was raining, properly pissing it down, but when we arrived at the red wall, lo and behold it was bone dry. It's easy to forget that the wall is at least 10 degrees overhanging.
The bonus was also that there was no fog or mist, the clouds were too high, so the atmosphere was dry. Hence dry holds and no apparant seepage. Odd.
Faced with bizarrely good conditions, I pulled on my boots and tried Brian Jacques. On my first go I managed to get to the crux move easily, but alas didn't latch the good crimp. This really is a show stopper for me.
G set to trying the traverse eliminate and made progress, latching the jug with a wild one-handed move but alas didn't manage the link-up. This will go though as he was looking solid.
I then tried the crux move of BJ in isolation many times, trying various adjustments to no avail.
I wouldn't mind but I've actually done the move once. I think it's all about the left hand arete and pulling in before extending. either way I couldn't get hold of it today...
I am still really psyched for the problem though, and it's going down soon.
On otehr matters, the timber for the crush-board is arriving on Friday, so I shall soon be able to start building once the asbestos is removed. Can't wait.
Over and out.

stuff.

2011-05-30T13:53:00.000-07:00

Well, it's been some time since I've actually posted on the blog, but a lot has happened at this end. Namely life getting in te bloody way.
I went back to cadshaw a couple of days after the last post and for the one and only time, I manged to latch the crux move from one move in. Really pleased about that - felt easy too. Only thing was I couldn't do it again, and I don't remember what it was exactly I did different.
Ah well.
Apart from that I've been to Rochdale to check out the new bouldering, most of which is good and makes the place a much more appealing place to visit. To my great surprise I managed to crush a 6b+ without much mucking around which given recent climbing volume was very surprising indeed.
I went over to Lower montcliffe too to fail on the Dinosaur 3d problem, although it was very sweaty at the time.... this problem still aludes me.

On the life front, I've been mostly still sorting boxes out from the house move, but also I've redecorated the second bedroom too which has taken some considerable time, removing the hideous "watercolour green" woodchip and replacing it with less hideous magnolia and striped non-woodchip wallpaper.
I've also been trying to clear space in the garage to make way for the soon to be crush-board. So far, I've calculated that I should have just over 11.5 feet of actual climbing at an angle of 36 degrees which I'm happy with. Here's a photo of the space, if you grab the nearest microscope you may be able to see the faint diagonal string I put up to get an idea of the space.
It should be over ten feet wide which is plenty to figure out circular endurance laps. I was going to make the angle less steep, but as I don't intend on changing it or having to adjust it I don't see the point. The pic doesn't really do the size justice as it is fairly big really, it's taken from in the corner
Apart from the housey stuff, I've also been to Germany working for 9 days, and then to Paris so when I have been at home, climbing has had to take a back seat really.
Hopefully that will change...
We'll see.

Cadshaw

2011-04-22T15:02:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I had a rare evening spare so headed over to Cadshaw. GCW was at a loose end and was keen for a revisit after his recent project progress. As I flogged away at Brian Jacques he was getting close to latching the final crimp on the arete project. Originally a line that I had my eye on, he seems to be making more progress and seems more psyched than I am to get it done.
I dare say he'll have it done before long.
As for Brian Jacques, what a class problem. I can now link the start to gain the arete, and set up for the big move to the crimp. Once I've got this move nailed, it's on. I think it's a timing thing. To catch the hold for me feels hard, and although I can get the hold, I can't hold it as I swing off. The promising thing however is that getting there doesn't feel beyond my limit.
I'm going to crush this problem.

Anyway. We then moved on to find Twist, a problem I've known about for ages, and sought out in the past but never actually tried. It can be found on a block past red wall by following the stream upriver for 5 or 10 mins.
This area only ever gets dry after a prolonged dry spell, and is proper Lancashire esoterica! Unsurprisingly it wasn't chalked up, and needed a bit of a brush to clean it.
The problem is only a couple of moves, and was first climbied by R-man's brother Ollie Mueller a few years ago. It is however a very enjoyable couple of moves and kind of weird if you follow the short man's beta and don't lank it. was disappointed not to get the flash, but I think this was due to rushing it. I did however crush after a go or two.
After a brief play on the overhanging block to the left, which contains a problem that looks all but impossible to me, we then crossed the river and scrambled up a steep bank of leaves with some difficulty to find a potential project wall. After the removel of a tiny wasps nest with a solitary wasp in it, we tried a potential project that climbs a groove to a high break.
Looks hard. Feels hard.
After some progress we sacked it, due to an angry wasp returning and stomped back to the car.
I'm psyched for Brian Jacques, and hopefully I'll engineer a revisit before having to work in Germany for 10 days at the end of next week, during which I'm likely to get nothing done...

On the house front, the downstairs is pretty much done now. Just the upstairs and garage, then it'll be time to plan the woody....

Coachage

2011-04-19T03:16:00.000-07:00

It seems a long time since I've written on the blog. This has been for several reasons, the main one being that we have moved house at the end of last week and as expected it has taken longer than I thought to get things straight.
Moving house is difficult anyway, with a 4 month old it's virtually impossible...
So I haven't been out climbing, but hopefully things in a couple of weeks will start to calm down and a version of normality can resume, along with some crushing.
Well, that's the plan anyway.

I had the opportunity recently to get some professional coaching from the man Jennings, which I took advantage of.
I wasn't sure what to expect when he turned up with 'legend' written on the front of his tee-shirt, but in the event, it was well worth it.
My target this year is 7a (yeah, ok, for the third year running) and in spite of our bundle of joy I'm hoping I can actually get out enough to get it done.
The coaching consisted of a 2 hour session with a break in the middle followed by feedback at the end and a write up afterwards with action plan on how to acheive the impossible dream.
Nik identified some of the principle weaknesses in my climbing, things I wasn't really aware that needed work - body position, making use of good footwork (!!), strategies for how I can modify the way I climb, but for me the most surprising thing I took away was how my approach really can affect whether I am successful on a redpoint, and how problem selection in itself can help increase the chance of success or not.
I just found coaching to be so much more effective in pinpointing the specifics to how I can improve my climbing better than any book or training manual.
I've recently read an article in Climber that pretty much goes through the same process, and it struck me why more people don't take up this sort of thing. I guess you can get to a point where you're doing the same thing over and over. or reach thta plateau. Hopefully this will help me improve this year, although with thousands of boxes at home ready to be sorted through I doubt this will happen any time soon.. doh!

On a separate note the garage has internal dimensions of 8 foot 6 in height which I calculate gives me approx. 9 feet 10 inches ish of possible climbing area with a 30 degree overhang. Increase the steepness and increase the area, but increase the difficulty.... hmmm food for thought.
At least it's an incentive to sort the bloody boxes out!

2011-04-16T13:42:00.000-07:00

Cadshaw

2011-04-06T02:00:00.000-07:00

Cadshaw is a pretty fickle place. I remember the last time I went over there, I could barely pull on to Brian Jacques, a problem that climbs the left hand side of a slightly overhanging wall. I think its' location, being quite a sheltered and enclosed area contributes to the mostly greasy conditions that you tend to find there.
Anyway, last Wednesday conditions were sueprisingly good - fairly cool, and there had been a dry few weeks, so there was little seepage.
I managed to negotiate a couple of hours out and met up with GCW for another attempt at working the problem. To be honest I wasn't that hopeful bearing in mind my previous failures, but to my surprise I managed to pull on first go. After working it a bit I managed to slap the arete, but had difficulty holding it. After a few goes though I could do this move too.
There appear to be two different betas (betae? beti? whatever...) for this problem - the first clinbing the face in small moves a la Mr. Mueller via some horrendously poor crimps, and the second involves an improbable lanky sequence missing out most of the holds a la Mr. Wallis. It appears I'm somewhere between the two.
G proceded to climb the problem annoyingly quickly and was also setting about looking at another project of his.
From the first move of BJ, I find it best to get the arete lowish via a heel hook, adjust the toe, then get the arete higher up (better), and then go straight from there to the high but good crimp.
If I can hold that crimp, the crux is done, but it's at full stretch and is a kind of funny barn door type move.
As I had the first couple of moves wired I concentrated on the move off the arete to the high crimp. At first I couldn't even reach it, but after a few goes I was tickling the hold and by the end I could almost hold it.
Once I have this move 'lock down', I reckon the crush is on...
Dare I to dream?
I still don't know how I can be so psyched for a measly 7 moves on some out of the way Lancashire quarried hole, but I've wanted to do this problem for a long time. I've never felt even close to it. Now however, I feel even more psyched for it than ever. For the first time it feels on the horizon and I've now made more progress than I ever have before.
I can't see conditions being great for a while though, what with all this rain, and I think the biggest obstacle to the crush is going to be conditions.

On a separate note, Biggups to Mr. Jennings who has been crushing the clips of late, with a FA of Moddey Dhoo F8a+ (good Manx dog reference...), no mean feat and added to other 8 related crushings, E8, Font 8a etc what more is there for the man to do?! Nice one.

new projects

2011-03-28T11:39:00.000-07:00

I went over to Widdop on Saturday morning.
The less said about that the better. I might as well have gone to Brownstones, I would have got more done.
So I had a bit of time to spare yesterday and decided to head over to a local venue to have a look at an old project that I started a few years ago but never finished, partly because it wasn't very close to where I was living at the time, and partly because the summer in question was particularly wet and I lost the psyche for it. The project is a fairly long traverse, nothing groundbreaking but with several distinct cruxes which should nevertheless be possible with a bit of effort.
To my surprise the whole crag was pretty much dry, which even in the summer is relatively unusual - there are a lot of cracks, and there consequently tends to be a lot of seepage.
I managed to work a solution for the intial crux which involves a couple of stiff low moves on small crimps, but couldn't climb through it.
I only had a short window so had to head off shortly after. On my way out I decided to have a look at a part of the crag that for most of the year is shrouded in trees - I have had a look at this area before, but dismissed it previously because of the fact it attracts a lot of seepage.
This time though, it was different.
There is quite an attractive and slightly overhanging prow, probably only 4 or 5 moves long before easy ground, but nonetheless it was bone dry. I had a brief look before I drove off, intrigued.

Fast forward to tonight - I had a spare hour or so, and decided to give the crag another look. On closer inspection, the moves on the prow look really good - I can presume it's not been climbed before, it certainly needed a good brush as it was covered in lichen, which tends to take a while to grow. But in addition to that, a: it's pretty much hidden by tree cover for the majority of the year, and b: most non-bouldering climbers that would visit the crag would walk past it anyway.
Let's put it this way, unless R-man has been, it's not been done. At least I've not seen any mention of it anywhere.
The true problem would be from a sitter, with a highish good left sidepull and a poor right sidepull, and not much for the feet, pull up to a large, but poor right sloper with a crimpy lip, then a good left crimp, and then somehow levitate to a ledge - it becomes a bit fridge-huggy from the good crimp and I've no idea how that part would be climbed.
I only had about twenty minutes on the problem and I could barely pull off the ground from standing, leave alone sitting. It looks to me like it'll go somewhere between font 6b and 7a probably, but who knows. All I know is that I'm psyched for it, but I don't feel strong / good enough at present.
There are a couple of other lines there that look easier, but nevertheless interesting, so I might go back for them anyway in the meantime...

Optimism and Widdop failure long version

2011-03-21T03:48:00.001-07:00

Cracking weather on saturday necessitated a climbing session, and so I headed to the north east up to Yorkshire.
It's so easy to become pissed off with day to day drudgery, but it struck me over the weekend how lucky I am to be living in such a great area for climbing. Yorkshire gritstone only an hour away, Cumbrian limestone about the same, the Peak district not much further, and the glorious gritstone quarries on the doorstep.
Where I grew up in Northamptonshire there are barely hills, let alone crags, and most of the quarries are gravel pits, or otherwise filled with water.
When the house finally goes through and we're up in Egerton, the quarries become a realistic summer morning prospect, if I have the motivation. Although if Hank is prepared to do laps on Moss wall at 7.30am in the summer then I really should at least try to get my arse in gear.
Last week the club had a talk by the man Fawcett. Or maybe I should say the Legend Fawcett.
I was struck by his modesty, but the slides and stories speak for themselves. This man really was motivated to get out there and comes across as a genuinely nice guy. He presented a copy of his book to the John Roberts Library, and as custodian of the library we had a photo taken. Another valuable addition to the 700 odd books already in the collection (I really need to think about buying some more shelves!)
Big Ron presenting his autobiography to the Lancs Caving and Climbing Club (Ron, me and El Chairman)

Anyway, back to reality. I went over to Widdop on Saturday. Partly because I had a couple of problems I wanted to get done, and partly because the brother in law wanted to go somewhere and hadn't climbed for over a year. We got started on the pickpocket block, on the easy side and to get him going I pointed him up a few of the easier slabby problems
With those under his belt we moved over to near the four square block and the V1 problem with the dyno in the middle of the wall. A really satisfying hold once you get it, which eventually he did.
Then I had a go at Splashdown, and hit the slopey hold first go, but failed to latch it. This is another problem that it seems you have to time right to have success. For some reason I just couldn't get hold of it.
NExt, we moved over to Grumpy old men, a diminuitive problem of about 4 moves, but frustrating as hell. I was however pleased to latch and hold the right arete after only a few tries, a move which I had considerable trouble with last year.
But at only 6b ish, I really do seem to be stagnating, or worse, going backwards...!
I think what with not getting out very much recently and having my eye off the ball and on child duties, I really am under performing. Coupled with an end of winter lull, it doesn't make for a crush filled blog, so if you're reading this, I convey my apologies.

Having said all that, it's always good to have a plan, and this year is full of plans. Once we're set up somewhere new, Project Board can begin, and I can get some structure back to my climbing. He with a plan is the man who can...

Widdop failure

2011-03-19T08:41:00.000-07:00

Went to Widdop this morning, early doors.
Arrived at the crag at 8.20.

Short version: tried and failed on Splashdown. Tried and failed on Grumpy Old Men.

Had a good time though.

I'll edit the longer version when I have more time...

nowt

2011-03-14T02:28:00.001-07:00

Well, in general I've pretty much done nothing.
Went to the Roaches last weekend though with the intention of tradding.
To say it's been bloody ages since putting a harness on is no exaggeration, but I was looking forward to getting out on the sharp end to be fair, and the weather was looking ok.
We made good time down and arrived at around half nine. As ever in this part of the world, there were dry conditions everywhere except at the crag.
As we drove past Hen Cloud it was clear that the Roaches would be in mist.
When we got to the crag, it wasn't very good. Cold, wet, with a fine mist falling incessantly.
Not to be deterred, we headed over to the upper left hand side near inverted staircase and started on a slabby route.
Now, under normal conditions, especially with mileage the route is piss, but in the event, we backed off due to rain stopping play. Mossy unprotected slabs in the wet are not my cup of tea to be honest. At least not that day.
It was becoming fairly obvious that nothing was going to get done, so after doing the Big 'Oles boulder problem in the wet, we retreated.
As we still had a few hours spare we picked up the shotgun and went to shoot some clays, so the day wasn't totally wasted...

Changing times

2011-02-24T01:39:00.000-08:00

Well we are now officially homeless.
Moving was a total arse and seemed never ending. I banked on a day and a half, and in the event it took 3 days to clear the house and the garden. Still, eventually it was done, and we're now at a temporary address until the new house completes, probably sometime in April.
I went to the old house to take the final gas reading, and it was really weird being in the house with someone elses stuff in it.
Things have been altogether perturbing lately, hopefully they'll settle down soon. I'm not too keen on being in limbo.
Anyway, to alleviate the stress of moving, I went up to West View with the G-man and El Beardo, and it appears that 3 days of shifting crap does nothing for your climbing technique.
So I was generally out of sorts and wonderful company all round. There was plenty of crush from the Lanky one as there was from El Beardo, whilst I mostly failed on everything V5 and above, and sat around a lot.
However, as a wise man once said, inactivity is not the road to improvement, so I really need to be more focused and psyched at the wall, or not bother going.

To heap yet more bad news on, it appears Broughton really is shutting this time. And all in the name of progress eh. Bastards. They will be getting rid of one of the most important training venues in the North West. They don't build 'em like that any more.

Font shelved.

2011-02-15T04:08:00.001-08:00

Today I made a decision to postpone the planned Font trip in May. It looks like we won't be moving into the new house until April at the earliest, and as I'm working in Germany for a week already in May, it's not looking feasible.
However, the house we're buying has a nice sized garage with at least 8 ft clearance.
plenty of room for a woody.
Can't wait to build it...!

West View

2011-02-09T03:07:00.000-08:00

So I had a pass out yesterday and chose to head over to Preston. I haven't been indoors for a long time, looking back at the blog it appears the last time was at Rochdale on November 29th. Ah well, events seem to have taken a front seat recently.
Gareth was free and decided to put in an appearance, but the bearded one was enjoying some Italian based birthday food avec the family so couldn't make it.
I had forgotten my card, so it took about ten minutes before I got in. This is after having parked dodgily the wrong way down a one way street. West View seems to be a victim of it's own success...
I wasn't too pleased at the hike in rates, I'd forgotten that it had gone up to £6. This now puts it on a par with most of the other walls in the area. The price had always been a decider for me over where to go if there was indecision, in spite of it being a bit further to travel.
To be fair, the price has been static for some time.
As expected from the state of the carpark, the place was RAMMED.
It was good to see Simon and a few of the Lancs lot down, roping it as ever, but it's been a while since I've seen them so that was pleasant.
To say I'm out of shape is an understatement. All night I just felt particularly weak and clumsy.
I warmed up on a couple of the V2s and 3s and then flashed a couple of the V4s, but before long I was out of juice. I had a good go at a few of the V5s, but to be honest, psyche was low, skin was thin and I generally felt crap. G was not much different, and although he looked strong on the V5s, even his sublime footwork couldn't get him up a V6.
In mitigation however, I should say that this set of problems seems hard.
In amongst the rabble it was good to see some local wads were in force, the tanned one, and even Lancashire legend Mr. Lovatt put in an appearance, so there were plenty of people about to make failure seem even worse than it was.

Woodhouse Scarf

2011-01-28T06:44:00.000-08:00

Friday 31st January
As a connoisseur of scruffy urban crags, I kind of knew what to expect when I went to Woodhouse today, but I was actually quite impressed. Yes, there was the ubiquitous litter and a vague smell of dog shit, but that wasn't important.
I got there ealier than expected, and had about an hour and a quarter between meetings. It was 2 degrees when I got there but it seemed really bloody cold. I felt as psyched as I usually do in the morning. i.e. not very.
I decided to jump straight on without warming up and chose an unnamed 6a (can't remember which one, will edit this later) and flashed it. To be fair, it felt easier than that but I was going by the Yorkshire Gritstone bouldering guide (Vertebrae one). I'm still not sure about this guide really, bit too selective for my liking, and only the bare bones of information make it difficult to use.
Anyway, I digress.
After that I wandered along the crag picking off problems here and there that looked good. I really like the rock, especially as it doesn't seem to be polished to buggery like some other Yorkshire crags.
Then I came to the cave buttress, a slab overhung at the bottom lending itself to sit-starts. Originally I wanted to look at Metal Mickey, but in the event without a spotter and with one rather thin mat, I decided not to.
I turned my attention to the Cave buttress traverse. In the 2001 guide it give this problem 6b, right in my range so I thought I'd have a crack. It felt ok until the arete, although the feet did have to cut loose which felt awkward, but as soon as I reached round the arete, the sun was out and proceded to blind me every time I made the move. Looking back at the new guide it gives it Font 6c, which felt about right, which puts it right at the top of my range.So although I didn't crush, it was nice to get out. I'd go back there too, there's loads I didn't have a chance to get on.

Wilton Vid

2011-01-20T06:31:00.001-08:00

Here's the vid from a recent Wilton visit. Baltic conditions again. Perfect...

Untitled from Rick Ginns on Vimeo.

Rain

2011-01-17T01:35:00.000-08:00

Well according to the radio this morning, today is supposed to be the most gloomy day of the year. The weather seems to be consistent as it's been pretty much raining in Lancashire for the past week.
It's not too bad though as it looks like the next few months may well be a sparse climbing period for me due not only to the new arrival but also we're about to move home, which will undoubtedly be extremely stressful and expensive...

agh, roll on the summer...

Wilton massive.

2011-01-10T03:34:00.000-08:00

Well yesterday was full of high hopes of ticking a few classic Wilton problems. Only problem was most of it was wet...
Robin had put up a few problems last year that I've not had a chance to check out yet, so the plan was to have a look at those, and possible Snakey B which is still on the list.
GCW was up for that plan, so I met him at around 1pm. As he was sat in his car as I arrived, I guessed that conditions may not be great! As I expected, Gareth had had a scout round the Wiltons to find that almost all of the problems were wet.
Still, the Graveyard overhang in Wilton 1 almost always stays dry, so we decided to have a play on there as there were a couple of things I've not done and wanted to check out.
Conditions were actually pretty good, being baltic and dry on the overhang, and we warmed up on a traversey warm up thing, which I found remarkably pumpy for what it was.
After warming up, we had a go at a couple of the eliminate problems. G-man managed to crush the low start to 5.2%abv (6b) with consummate ease, and also did Beer Belly (6b) quickly.
I really like this area, and the problems are good - I did 5.2%abv aka shouldercrusher which I've done before, and then did Beer Belly standing start after about 3 false starts and surprised myself by doing it so quickly. I definitely feel fitter and lighter than the same time last year and have a feeling that this year will see some crushing if I get out enough...
The beer belly move out right is a really satisfying semi-dynoey move on which you can't help but let your feet cut loose. Nice.
Then G decided to flail for some considerable amount of time on 'The Move' (7a) which mainly consists of, erm, one move.
Although he was definitely looking strong on it, catching the hold almost every time, he seemed not to get perfect timing, so unfortunately didn't crush. Get to it though G, you've all but done it!
Then our attention was turned to the Graveyard slab where G crushed the Graveyard arete sans anything but the arete, (6a my arse) and some pointless dyno thing. I eventually managed the Graveyard slap (5+/6a) although by this time CrushCam had ran out of tape...
If I get time I'll post a video of the little we did for your perusal...

Happy New Year

2011-01-01T13:17:00.000-08:00

Well, things are all changed in the Ginns household since November. On the 7th December our daughter was born, an event that will undoubtedly change EVERYTHING.
For the better though.
with a pretty healthy weight of 7 lb 1oz, she's already the Boss of the household and running Mrs rginns ragged. Ah the joys of baby excretions.

Anyway, this is clearly the reason that the blog hasn't been tended to lately, but hopefully from now on it should get more frequent.

Other news is that the house is now under offer, so we will soon be in pastures new, god knows where - the hunting begins.

On second thoughts, I may not get to update the blog quite as frequently as I hope...

Well the list this year has been an utter failure, having only completed 3 off the list. I feel the need for a change, as some of the places I never even got to - such as Thorn crag, which in spite of being an awesome place, is pretty impractical to get to at the best of times. The list may have to be reduced to those problems I can get on locally and easily. At least in the short term., as the child may well stop play more than I think over the next few months.

Back on the climbing front, I have managed to get out climbing today, the first time since the birth - it felt awesome to get back on the rock, and conditions were excellent when I finally found some dry rock - firstly I went over to Lower Montcliffe, I've got two projects there that I want to do, but they were both wet. As I was leaving, lo and behold I saw another boulderer - this is the first time I've ever seen anyone else at Lower Montcliffe, brilliant to see people going there, who knows I may have to queue for the problems next time!
Anyways, I headed up the road past Brownstones to Wilton 1. I've got a couple of things I want to do there, the first being snakey B LH which takes the left hand line on the wipeout wall.. To be honest I wasn't feeling that good as it's been 6 weeks since I've climbed and inevitably felt clumsy and weak. I warmed up on Baby fae, and then got straight on with the left hand Snakey b. After a couple of goes, it felt ok, so I turned crushcam on and crushed it in style... it took me by surprise actually at how easy it felt. It's a good problem with a couple of really good moves. Anyways, here's the vid:

Rochdale, but demoralised.

2010-11-29T03:06:00.000-08:00

I had possibly the worst day of the year at work last week on Tuesday, and to top it all it was in Worksop. It may be just me, but people from Worksop just aren't normal. There's a kind of bubble they live in which means they can't breed outside their own gene pool. Or, at least that's how it seems to me. Anyway, after an unwarranted battering from all and sundry I managed to get free by about half past four.
The original plan was to get shot a lot earlier and head outside somewhere in the peak on my way back, but in the event it was nearly dark by the time I left. I had to go to Harrogate before heading back home, so I went there and from there straight to the wall. I was going to go to Preston, but that would have added a good 45 minutes to my journey, so instead I went to Rochdale. I've not been here in a while, and wanted to check out the new problems.

I warmed up on a few of the yellows and greens before attacking the pinks (V4/5) in anger. For some reason on the overhanging wall, the pink problems all feel absolutely nails. I got to the last moves of a couple of them, but no cigar. Even the blues (V2/3) seemed a little tougher than they ought to have done. I could only put it down to the angle being steeper than I'm used to, and my incredible lack of strength!
After flogging those for a while I went on to the vertical wall, and flashed all but one of the pinks on this side. This made me feel a lot better about things and reaffirmed what I'd thought. It seems that although I have almost exclusively been working on steep bouldering over the last year or so, I still have a way to go before I'm as strong as I'd like to be...

On the aims list, the completion rate has been woeful. Even the videos have dropped off the blog for a while... therefore, this needs to change in the new year. For reasons that will become apparant it looks like I'll be out of action for at least a few weeks very soon, but to use an awful americanism, 'moving forward', I hope to have some more interesting posts to read, and some videos to watch...

Lower Montcliffe

2010-11-22T01:39:00.000-08:00

On Wednesday I had a couple of hours so went over to West View. All in all I was feeling ok, but I hadn't eaten enough in the day, so felt pretty dodgy afterwards.
Note to self: eat stuff.
I managed a lot of easy stuff, then very very nearly did the white V5 in the middle. For the first time, I linked all moves twice in a row, falling on the last move. For me this is a big improvement, especially bearing in mind I was knackered.
G was looking strong as ever, and managed all manner of things up to the V6 region. Good stuff.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I had a couple of hours free in the afternoon so popped over to Lower Montcliffe.
I spent quite a bit of time there last summer and really like the place. There's rarely anyone there when I go, which is nice. There was one main aim, Dinosaur Adventure 3D (6c/6c+) that takes a cool slanting groove.
After faffing about a bit, I got on the problem proper, and after a while was palming the groove. Then GCW and troops arrived, ready for the crush. After settling the troops down with some sweets and entertainments, G got to work removing some of the grass from the top of the problem. Between us the problem got quite a lot of grass removed, and as such is looking a lot clearer. It didn't take G long to dispatch the problem in consummate style.
The move I can't quite yet do is the right hand move up the groove to the good part of the arete - although, after only an hour on the problem this felt pretty close. I reckon one or two more sessions and I'll have this one in the bag. I'm really psyched for it too...
Then the Lanky one showed me Maid in Stone, a problem I have looked at briefly, but found nails. The moves on this one felt good yesterday though, and this is another one I can see myself getting my teeth into, and being 7a is a contender for this years target...
Monty is esoteric, but it's easy for me to get to, quiet (I'm an unsociable git) and a couple of quality projects to go for. All in all it gets the thumbs up...

Any dry rock in Lancashire?

2010-11-15T04:56:00.000-08:00

I should have known that yesterday would be a failure. I had a morning free, but needed to be back by around midday.
I wanted to look at some projects that I've virtually spent no time on this year, so a round of the local quarries was in order.
First on the list, is Dinosaur Adventure 3d at Lower Montcliffe. This takes a line up a diagonal ramp feature in the third quarry along. Although it had been raining a fair bit recently, I expected the line to be dry as it is not directly affected by seepage. Or so I thought. In the event, the face was all but dry except for the crucial arete hold and the ramp sidepull. This was due to run off from the patch of grass above the problem.
This will need a good couple of dry windy days at this time of the year before it comes into condition I reckon. Other than that I'm pretty psyched for it, and think it will go down as soon as I can get on it. The last time I tried it in the summer I was getting close.

A brief look at Indian face, also on the list soon discovered that it's sopping wet. This line however takes direct seepage from the quarry face, so is unliky to be dry in the winter. It looks like this will be shelved.

After these disappointments, I decided to sack LM and move on. Next was Brownstones. I've still got quite a few lines I want to climb here, and first up was Verdinand. The pond area however seems even worse than last year, the level of the pond comes up to lobotomy. Any water that the tree would have soaked up is reduced due to someone hacking it back earlier this year (why this was done I have no idea) so it looks like this is unavoidable.
Even if the line was dry (it wasn't) I wouldn't have fancied the prospect of putting my mat in 2 inches of water.
Next up is Groundhog, a problem I've not even tried yet, but the high crimp was wet and the arete itself was greasy.
Finally I got to Nexus wall, which was actually in perfect condition. No sooner had I got my shoes on however, it started raining. The dyno now feels impossible without the flake, and Lancashire Pothot has been upgraded to around 7a+ without it too.

However, the crumb of satisfaction was that I was able to find some dry rock. In spite of the rain, it wasn't too bad, and I managed to play around on quite a few eliminates on the wall which provided some satisfaction for me. I got one small rubbish eliminate on tape done, one that I'd done before, but has a couple of nice moves. Probably around font fuck all (but is probably 3+ for all I know about grading though...)

On my way home I popped into Wilton 1 to see if Snakey B was dry and it did appear to mostly be dry - this is also one that keeps fairly dry.
I think this just proves that at this time f year, you need to pick your battles in the quarries...

here's a shit vid of an easy eliminate.

Rockover

2010-11-15T03:17:00.000-08:00

Last week saw a visit to Rockover with Gremlin from UKB. It was my first trip to the wall and all in all it wasn't too bad. The only thing I would say is that it got really busy and I do prefer the less busy wall. The reason could be that I'm an unsociable bastard, but I like to think that I don't really prefer the 'cock on the block' set up that seems to be prevalent in a lot of walls.

Other than that, the set up is quite good with variation of angles and moves. The roof could do with better lighting though. I liked the campus board upstairs, even I could 1-2-3 it to the top of those rungs. I could see campussing being addictive if you were strong.

As somewhere new to head to, it's good, but it still can't rival Broughton for sheer crimping power variety, and it's an arse to get to in rush hour...

Busy Preston

2010-10-27T01:38:00.000-07:00

Last night saw a relatively rare visit to Preston, Darryl is about again in the week so I mentioned that I should be heading over there and GCW was up for some climbing too.
It was busy when I arrived and only got busier. After getting lost several times Darryl had eventually made it in and was talking to Mad Tony and Alison from the club near the entrance. It was nice to see them again actually as I've not been getting out on the meets as often as I'd like.
I warmed up on a few of the V2s and 3s, then tried a few of the v4s. To my surprise I flashed them all. I then tried one of the V4/5s and got up that first time too. I wasn't feeling too bad.
Darryl was also going well in view of having been off climbing and injured for 6 months and got up a v4. If he loses a bit of the padding and starts training he'll be strong soon enough.
GCW was putting on a good show too, eventually pulling a V6 out of the bag and looking strong on everything else, even managing to heel-toe many more holds than necessary. Footwork was sublime...
I then tried the white V5 in the middle and got to the last move before falling off, but I felt quite good on it really, one I need to get on sooner next time. The problems have been reset and they're mostly good, with some of them crossing over each other and most being a bit reachy, but this isn't too surprising as they do tend to be there.
There were a lot of people in tonight, Jordon was in fresh from his flash victory on Balance it is, and Naomi, Mr. L and a few other big guns were in. It was difficult to concentrate in the presence of wads!
Although I'm not getting out much, I am at least getting one session in per week. I really need to start supplementing this with some fingerboard training so that when I am out on the crag I can CRUSH in style... 65 days to climb 7a although I'm likely to be severely impeded after 36 days... tick tick tick!

Broughton again

2010-10-18T13:16:00.000-07:00

Last Wednesday I managed to get an hour free to nip up to the roaches quickly and I had only one aim: staffordshire Flyer.
Time was short, so the priority was to find Doxeys pool as I'd never been before. I started up to the Upper Tier and slogged my way along. I'd forgotten how good the bouldering is on the upper tier, but I didn't have any time to stop so I kept going.
The path finishes, so I carried along the broken edge for a few hundred yards before heading up and over the Upper tier to find Doxeys. I hadn't realised how far it would be, but got there eventually, after getting somewhat misrouted.
Without further ado I got straight onto Staffordshire Flyer. The problem takes a rail up a roof to a dynamic move left to a hold on the arete, then up right, and goes at about 6b.
Although it was fairly wet, it wasn't too bad, and there were some large stones so my mat didn't get too wet.
The first move is ok, getting established on the rail, if a little off balance, and I could get my right hand to the top of the rail, but throwing for the good hold on the arete felt necky without a spotter. I tried it a couple of times, but it's a move you really need to commit to. Think I need to come back with a spotter and maybe another pad, there is the potential to land quite awkwardly..
Anyway, fast forward to today, and after a hectic weekend I managed to get to Broughton this evening.
I wasn't feeling great, it's been a theme recently, not helped by running myself into the ground. Empty again. I don't mind that though, allows me to focus better.
I tried a couple of the easier problems and then got on one of the 5c+s, without much success. I then tried a 5c. Felt shit.
As I was getting nowhere, I decided to see how many of the 5b+s I could do before I had to leave. I managed about 15 problems, flashing all of them apart from 2, then needed to leave. I was pleased to leave feeling fairly beasted even though I didn't climb anything hard. Most of the problems are good at Broughton, and usually quite burly, so I feel pretty knackered now.

Good stuff.

Broughton grades

2010-10-12T03:44:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I managed to escape work relatively on time, and as GCW and Nik were on duty and I was on the clock I decided to head over to Broughton.
Unsurprisingly there was noone there, as is so often the case, but this is sure to change when the clocks go back. It's usually quite busy by mid-winter. I didn't really warm up, as everyone knows warming up is for gays, so I jumped straight on to a 5c. Normally at any other wall, or outside on a 5+ or 5c (which roughly equate to the same thing) I would probably flash it, or get it done on the second or third go.

Not at Broughton.

This got me thinking about grades, and place, and I wondered whether it was for the fact that I'm less used to this style of climbing (overhanging, crimpy in nature, limestoney). I can discount this based on the fact that overhanging crimpy style climbing is pretty much all I've been doing lately. In addition to this I'm definitely feeling stronger because of it.
I couldn't really put it down to the way I was feeling, because for once I was actually quite psyched to be crimping down, I'd eaten well so had plenty of energy and being a Monday I wasn't too tired from work.
The only thing I can put it down to is the fact that the grading is particularly harsh at this wall. It's not helped by the old school English grading (well, it was built in the 80s, so is excusable).
The real question being: is this a good thing or a bad thing?
For me, it depends greatly on whether you're chasing numbers or not. Grades are always subjective to the place, and relative, so if I was expecting to crush English 6b at Broughton (Font 6b+/6c - V4/5) as I would expect to at, say West View, I'd be very disappointed.
In the event, I managed to struggle up a 5c+, and I've never been up a 6a in all the times I've climbed at Broughton in the last 5 years.
But this still begs the question: what is the true grading? It's probably easier to knot fog than find that answer out.

Burly wall and Roaches

2010-10-08T12:57:00.000-07:00

Thursday saw a Wall of Burl revisit, with Nik. UKBs Gremlin was keen to get some training done, so he was round to be initiated into the WoB too. The 'footwork King', G-Lah had submitted a rather poor excuse and was nowhere to be seen however, so it was the three of us.
Memory man Gremlin was given some excellent pointers from Nik-should-have-been-a-coach-at-work, and in spite of a woeful ability to remember more than two holds in sequence, he did well. WoB is a bit of a baptism of fire and he didn't hold out too badly for his first session, he'll come on quickly I reckon if he concentrates on his footwork and finger strength.
Nik was looking as strong as ever in spite of the split finger, hope your crook wrist is better soon beast.
I on the other hand felt a bit weak to be honest. I wasn't really thinking properly and ended up failing a lot on the same move without changing anything or trying to do it any differently. Bit lazy really, so it wasn't the best session for me. Plus I didn't really feel beasted at the end either, so I could tell I wasn't giving it 100%. If I'm going to get stronger I think trying harder will be key. Sometimes it doesn't flow, and other times it does. Thursday, it wasn't particularly flowing...

So today saw me in sunny Coventry. After a successful meeting I headed up to Stoke as I had another meeting this afternoon. I managed to break free and as I was in the area I went straight up to the Roaches as it was virtually on my way back anyway.
I arrived feeling like crap, and wandered up to the crag. I didn't even look at the Spring boulders as I knew they'd be sodden (I was right) so I went to the lower tier boulders beneath Teck crack. After warming up on problem 40 and 41 (4a, 4c) I went over to the block behind to try something a bit harder.
Firstly I had a look at problem 8 which involved undercutting an overlap. Relatively tricky, but it felt straight forward. Second go. V3 6a
Then I had a brief look at the flake and arete on the left (Problem 6) V3 6a and thought it looked ok. I managed to find a pebble to 'finger' and pulled on. Foot on the right, slap with the left then another slap with the right and it was in the bag. Probably the third go.
I also did the flake problem to the right (Problem 9, V0 5a), then went over to do the Arch, V0 5a, and finally to the traverse (Problem 2, v1 5c) although didn't top this out it was good for the arms. I ran out of time, so headed off...

I really like this place, and there's more to come back to. GCW pointed out I should have headed up to try the Staffordshire Flyer, and I'd completely forgotten about it. I'm actually gutted that I didn't head up there actually as this has been on the list for a while, and I'm unlikely to head back any time soon.
So now I'm drinking beer after having chippy. I'll never lose the belly...
I'm quite pleased that I managed to dispatch a couple of 6a's with relative ease - I think I should be setting my sights higher when I'm out and about...
7a in 2010? hmmm. At least I tried today.

UKC Profile now deleted....

2010-10-05T07:21:00.000-07:00

Internet musings...
Well, I've come to the position that I can no longer support UKC as I have done before. I came to this decision after reading this thread on UKB.
Personally I've had no reason myself to take issue with the emporers of UKC in spite of the stories I've heard and their wish to influence other websites, but the POD debarcle seems to confirm what I thought.
Dubious ALLEGED topo theft by the other company doesn't help matters, especially as they're full of inaccuracies anyway.
So I've decided to delete all photos and everything on my profile if I can't delete the profile itself. I doubt I'll be visiting the site any tme soon and have effectively stopped using it a while back
UKB is by far a better forum, and I shall be sticking to that from now on.
Vive la revolution. Let's hope the Insect Overlords can do all they want to do with the site.
Anyway, it's not all negativity, I've made a little game for you all: Hangman!

Here's a picture clue...

Steaming fence

2010-10-04T05:14:00.000-07:00

Just a short post totally unrelated to anything...

. I woke up this morning and thought that the fence was on fire - in fact the sun had just come up and it was in the overnight condensation steaming off as the sun hit it - it looked awesome though, so here's some footage...

Quite cool.

West View

2010-10-03T12:08:00.000-07:00

I was planning on being out climbing yesterday, the weather was good, but in the end various factors conspired to ensure it didn't happen. Most of the afternoon however was spent cooking curries from scratch as we had friends over - the first time I've cooked vegan curries, but they were surprisingly easy, and tasty...
We met up at the strawbury duck and went for a brief walk around the reservoir, and after a pint, we headed back via the scenic road to Belmont.

After a good night of curries and merriment I was surprisingly feeling ok this morning. After everyone had gone, I decided to head up to West View as it had ben raining for most of the day.
I've not been to West view for ages, and it was nice to refamiliarise myself with it and it was busier than I thought it would be..
Happened to see Gremlin from UKB there avec friend, and from what he is saying it seems brownstones is back to being a swamp again at the bottom end. Ah well, default situation really...
I wasn't feeling great, but warmed up on the v1s and 2s and then did a couple of v3s.

I tried a few of the v4s, and much to my surprise I flashed the first one, and the other couple I managed in 2 or 3 goes. Better than I thought I'd do, they certainly went easier than last winter.
I had a go on the left hand black v5 and felt fairly strong on it although I was already past my best, one to try next time.

My previous glass ceiling has tended to be v5, but as the v4s went easy today I think a good target for the end of this winter should be v6.

What was it? Aim high, fail big...?!

Brief project scope.

2010-09-28T11:34:00.000-07:00

Last night I went over to have a look at a project I've been eyeing up in an attempt to guage whether it's worth giving it any serious thought.
I didn't get there until nearly 6 as I left work late, and it was quite humid, being about 16 degrees. As it's relatively closed in the rock was predictably fairly greasy.
I'd come completely unprepared, having forgotton my brushes and bouldering shoes. Instead I had my old trad shoes and a chalk bag with no chalk in it. Things didn't start well.
ah bugger it.
I'd been feeling progressively more and more rough as the day wore on, so I wasn't hopeful of getting much done.
The problem goes from a low sidepull jug to a slopey 3 finger hold, then there's a hard off balance move to back hand a crimp which should allow you to get high feet and reach to the break.
As I did the first move the sidepull exploded in my left hand, spraining my wrist and sending me sprawling on the mat.
Sounds dramatic eh? Well, maybe it wasn't quite an explosion, but it did send me on my arse. It's that sort off crappy lancs crumbly dusty sub-rock and makes me think the whole low flakey jug is suspect...hmmm
I decided to go. I was already feeling cack, and really didn't want to continue to be midged either.
I think it's worth spending time on, although it could do with a cleaning and an extra mat.
So I trudged home, feeling sorry for myself. Since then, I've been in bed, going to work just wasn't an option this morning. I think it's a case of serious man-flu, but hopefully It'll be 2 days instead of 2 weeks...
Here's the hold I ripped from the wall. It's about the size of a fist. raah!

EDIT: looks like I'll be missing out on a WoB session too. Rubbish rubbish rubbish

Kentmere, Tranearth and Langdale

2010-09-26T11:49:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I went up to the Lakes, an area that I've not really done much in. I had to drop the better half in Ravenstonedale for a hen do, then nip over the motorway to Kentmere. I drastically underestimated the amount of time it takes to get anywhere in the Lakes and ended up being over an hour later than planned.
Anyhoo. Kentmere was the order of the day.
G had already been at the crag for some time and I found him loitering around the Badger's appendage.
Badger Rock was feeling intimidating as I was still extremely hungover from Big Gay John's wedding on Friday, so I mostly procrastinated whilst GCW failed to crush Badger arete (it looked all but crushed until he jumped off).
Then we went up to Little Font, where I proceeded to crush Sheep Flies, which weighs in at a mighty Font 3 (amazing top out skills were also on show).
Then we took turns to sit under The Way (6a+) but all the holds were pointing the wrong way for some reason and I couldn't even pull on.
We gave that up as a bad job, then G suggested Blow yer Ballast (6b), as he'd done it earlier on. At first it seemed hard to hold the pinch, but as soon as CrushCam was deployed it seemed to click, and it was in the bag.
Then I tried Stegasaurus on the Leaning Stone but the train had already left Success City and I didn't get on with it.
G-man had to leave, and as I'd managed to block his car in comprehensively I had to walk back to the car. As I couldn't be bothered to head all the way back up, I decided to go to Chapel Stile.
I nearly managed to plough into a wall as I tried to open a scotch egg packet - note to self, leave savoury snack opening when NOT driving. Amazingly I managed to get there in one piece in spite of the satnav trying to take me down a footpath, hmmm.
After parking in the village and stomping up the hill I started at the H&M area. The only one I wanted to do here was the H&M Smith traverse, which is fairly easy until the arete/groove thingy which I couldn't get established in for all my trying, so I moved on - one to come back to though.
I missed out great wall and found Frittner area, but it felt dodgy without a spotter, so I went up to the higher crags and found Pocket Slab. after some consummate faffing I managed to fight my way up Pocket Slab Far Right (5b), actually a really nice problem off an undercut to a pocket and interesting mantel. Then I did a couple of the easys to the left, Pocket Slab Left being the best of the bunch. These all had the feeling of mini routes, and reminded me a bit of the long slabs at Thorn crag.
I went over to the Billy Bucket wall but by this time I was knackered and the back breaking rock in front made the traverse an unpleasant proposition, so I gave that a miss.
then I backtracked to Pike ridge to tick that off and headed off. All in all the crag is worthy of a visit, but I wish there was less tramping about to do.

In the evening I went to Tranearth as I needed to get a sample of the ceiling to send off for asbestos testing and it's been a while since I've visited the hut. As I hadn't eaten I went to the Church Inn, but they were fully booked, so I had to make do with a liquid tea. Incidently I got chatting to a bunch of people from the Vintage Motorcycle club which was interesting, didn't get back to the hut till gone 12...

I woke up this morning slightly hungover again, and started out late. I got to Langdale boulders around 11 and started on the West block climbing the left crack (Font 3+, woo!) and then couldn't work out how to get back down. After eventually figuring it out, I went over to the East block to look at the 6a+ wall just over the wall. I could get the juglet on the lip from the crimps, but just couldn't mantel it out. Very frustrating. I did however do all of the easys on these blocks, the groove to the left, the slab opposite (2 problems) and then much to my surprise I flashed the 6a+ slab round the corner. I spent some time on the blunt arete to it's right (6b+ from sitting), but although I could get the ledgy jug I couldn't mantel it out. It seems this is a running theme...
It was about time to get going to pick the better half up so I left.
I would have loved to get all of these amazing ascents on tape, but unfortunately in my 'still pissed' state on Saturday I only picked up the flat batteries. Here's a picture of a fish, by way of compensation.

ooh, and here's CrushCam capturing me on Blow Yer Ballast. At least someone was paying attention....

Short session of easy things at Kentmere from GCW on Vimeo.

Cadshaw and Broughton

2010-09-21T02:16:00.000-07:00

I was going to go swimming after work on Friday, and then on my way to the pool I got a message from the G-Meister challenging me to a Cadshaw run.
At the next junction I turned round and headed up, heading along a really picturesque road, Egerton road from Belmont, then Stones Bank Road which brought me out right near Cadshaw. I never know the road existed, at least not that it lead from Belmont to Blackburn road.
The wonders of Satnav indeed.
I arrived, and managed to stretch a little before GCW arrived.
I've not done this run for a while, probably 5 or 6 weeks, so I wasn't expecting a record time.
I was right to trust my expectations.
The first half didn't feel too bad, but I went through real bad patch just over half way through, I hadn't eaten much in the day and I think it really affected me. I almost stopped at several points.
The time was 41:07 which is around 30 seconds off my previous best, which although not being very good, at least wasn't shameful, bearing in mind I've not been running in a while.

Yesterday it was raining virtually all day and the original plan had been to head up to Brownstones or maybe have a look at a new line I've got in mind elsewhere, but in the event it would have been too wet to get anything done, so I headed to Broughton.
I spent some time on the main wall, warming up, then spent the rest of the time on the 45 degree board.
I had a really good session actually, I can feel my body tension starting to improve, and feel notably stronger than even a couple of weeks ago.
Again, AMAZING footwork. God, I'm good.
;)
I think I'm going to try and spend more time at Broughton than I have in the past, simply because it's such a good place to get strong. Technique does tend to be biased for Limestone, not many grit slopers here, but that can be allayed to a certain extent by open handing stuff.

The dizzy heights of 1000 views

2010-09-17T05:58:00.000-07:00

Well look at that, thanks to you my blog has now reached the dizzying heights of 1000 visit points, woo hoo!

Haven't you all got better things to do with your time?? Just think of the time you could have saved, you'll never have that back!

To say thanks, here's a picture of a cake with a sad face.

Beasted by the board of the beast

2010-09-17T01:18:00.000-07:00

Monday this week found me in Glasgow as I had some work up there. The plan was to cut early and head over to Dumby, but as is ever the case, I found myself looking at 6 hours worth of rain as I left the meeting at 2pm. It didn't look like it was going to stop. The choice was thus: option 1, drive 45 minutes to Dumby, look at some wet rock, then go home , or option 2, drive home.

Unsurprisingly I opted for the second option. As it happens, I should be up there again in October, so I'm hoping to get a chance to head over, as I've heard good things about this Scottish bouldering homeland.

Aside from that, which was doing nothing, I've done very little this week, in fact nothing. Soooooo yesterday I headed over to the Wall of Burl. Second visit, and it just isn't getting any less steep... and unfortunately gravity still has the same affect it always does on my un-muscly and flabby non-tensiony body.
Think it's doing the job though.
Today I feel wrecked. I haven't felt like that for ages, it's a good feeling, in a weird sort of way.
I was running late as the wife hadn't got back from work until late, so didn't get over to Niks until about half 8. There was still coffee being drunk so I hadn't missed the main show.
Psyche was higher than last week, though I still failed to complete a problem. At least with any flair, gusto or fluency. My footwork however was amazing. Rarely has such footwork been seen in West Yorkshire.
In spite of my overall weakness however, I did manage to get up the GayWall tm!! PROGRESS!
GCW was looking good incorporating as many heel and toe hooks as he could, just to make the moves look as awkward as possible, and Nik was lapping the board like a sport climbing beast.
All in all a cracking night of cranking and failing. Bonza.

Boardy boardy

2010-09-10T01:07:00.000-07:00

This week has been a bit mad at work really, so I've had less opportunity to get much done. However on Tuesday I was feeling sluggish and decided I really needed to go for a run. As I was supposed to also be going to the in-laws I opted for a Jumbles quick run. It's been a while since I've done this run, and it showed, as I couldn't remember the route and got rather lost, ending up on horrobin lane. This added at least 3 minutes onto my time so I only managed 22 mins 45.
bah. I felt broken too, obviously a bit out of touch...

Yesterday I headed over to Todmorden for a board meeting at the church with the bearded one and GCW. The brutality of the 40 degree steepness all but finished me off after an hour or so, but I managed to get to the top on the jugs. well, just. Most of the rest of the time was spent generally flailing and watching BB and G crushing mad-stylee / spinning holds (delete as applicable). They were both looking strong.
I knew the night was all but over when I failed to even get to the top of the "gay wall" though...
Thoroughly enjoyable actually, good training. Nice one BB.
I felt ok, and the hand is fine now. I think some more time at Broughton is required though as the fingers felt weaker than usual, although that could be down to 2 months of inactivity. Time to dust off the fingerboard...?

Got me dreaming about when I can build a board in our new house...when we get it. mmm. It will likely have to fit into a suburban garage however.

too much booze, not enough moves.

2010-09-07T01:32:00.000-07:00

Well recently has mostly consisted of not moving very much, and drinking coupiously. I put it down to drinking while I still can, but whatever, it's not good.
This weekend just gone was spent in Edinburgh on Banksy's stag do, and in spite of the only 4 hours sleep on Friday I managed to come second in the claypigeon shooting. ALthough I was robbed, having only 23 cartridges as opposed to the 25 everyone else had, so the moral victory is mine!
After a night out which ended up in rickshaw races down the high street, we managed to leave the horrible (but cheap) hostel more or less in one piece.
As I'd refused to pay double the train ticket price to leave at a time of my convenience, I had to wait until 4pm to get my train as opposed to everyone else leaving at 11. Ah well, I had a secret plan...

I had managed to secrete my climbing shoes in the bag on the off chance that I'd be at a loose end. So, after breakfast I decided to head up to Salisbury crag for a play about. Iggy was still hanging about for his train, so we both headed up there.
The walk up there nearly finished me off.
After some time procrastinating I got my shoes on. The rock itself is quarried and reminded me of a taller version of Brownstones. There are 2 easy faces and one steeper face. As I didn't have any topo with me, I spent quite a bit of time traversing back and forth and making up my own problems. The steeper section is polished to buggery and in the greasy conditions wasn't a nice proposition.
After a couple of hours, I'd had enough, and still hungover we made our way to the railway station.

Yesterday I had a bit of time before the BMC meeting, so headed over to Broughton. I spent quite a bit of time trying the 6c taverse and got just over half way which isn't bad. Other than that I aimlessly did a few 5bs and 5cs before running away.
THe BMC meeting was ok, less protracted debate than usual. Damage at Wilton is concerning, as are further fires and glass in W1. hopefully something will be done.
Coming out of the meeting I realised I'd left my lights on, hence flat battery.
Luckily Tom was still in the area, and we managed to flag down a passing motorist who happened to have some jump leads... mine had unfortunately been fried after mis-connecting them. Couldn't see anything in the dark. Hmm it's funny how many sparks a 12v battery can produce (!)

Pottering

2010-09-03T01:19:00.000-07:00

Went over to Brownstones after work yesterday for a potter. I warmed up on the crack, two step and a couple of others. Then worked a bit more on the pond traverse to see how I'd do. Actually I managed to get from the corner at the end of the initial wall over to the muddy arete or whatever it is first go, not even that warmed up. This was promising, as I could only just do that before I got injured.
Anyway, another part I've always struggled on a bit is getting round from mantelstrung to two step. I managed that first go too, going low whereas I normally go high.
Might I start to think this may actually go down this year?
It was a bit of a confidence booster which I'm in dire need of at the minute. For me, Psyche+confidence=results, and as I'm running short of psyche...

I was displeased to hear last night that the Great North Swim has been cancelled or rather postponed, meaning I won't be heading there this weekend. It does however mean that I can join the whole of Banksys stag do, which isn't a bad alternative to be honest...!

Generally unfit.

2010-08-27T01:53:00.000-07:00

Well, yesterday I decided I'd better actually at least try to go climbing...

Last week I went to Brownstones with Big G and generally failed to climb anything of note. It was a case of testing the hand out. Things started well, with G proffering Gauffres before we even started. Genius.
Actually, it wasn't too bad really, I managed various things, the usuals, Lobotomy, Hernia etc. Also the two step 5c version, Dynamic eliminate 6a and a few other bits and bobs. The hand fared pretty well, aside from being fairly painful when pushing directly on the scar as I topped out. This is likely to be my only gripe now, but I'm hoping that massaging moisturiser into it regularly will help in the long run.

So, fast forward to this week. The pork life I've been indulging recently has resulted in a 3 pound gain since I last went on the Wii fit, which kindly points out is 200 days ago...
However, I feel unfit to say the least. I've got the Great North Swim next week, and I realised I've only been swimming once in the last 3 months. Shit.
Therefore on Wednesday I headed down to the pool and swam 50 lengths. Not a mile, but once I'd got my rhythm it was fine really. Under 40 minutes which I'm not particularly happy with, but it's better than nowt. The most awkward thing will be swimming in the new wetsuit as I've not had the opportunity to test it out. I just hope the added bouyancy doesn't hinder my stroke. hmmm.

Anyway, back to climbing.

I went to Broughton last night, in spite of the fact that the weather was pretty good. The reasoning behind that was that as I've had quite a while from climbing the priority was to get as many climbing moves in as possible. With the best will in the world this is rarely acheived outside. For me, at least.
So, Got there around half five, climbed quite a few problems up to 5b+, then flashed a couple of 5cs. This seems to be my benchmark at the moment, if I can flash a couple of 5cs, I'm happy.
I then moved over to the cellar. I really need to work on my strength and general body tension as it's pretty crap. The board is fierce, being 45 degrees overhanging. I managed a couple of the V3 problems, then ended up jug hauling for about half an hour, making problems up. Spend much time on this wall and you'd be a beast... as it happens I can barely hang on most of the holds!

The conclusion is that although I'm a bit heavier, a bit weaker and generally a bit shitter, I've not regressed that far that it won't take a few weeks of concerted effort to get back to where I was.

Almost recovered

2010-08-16T01:29:00.000-07:00

Today it's been 6 weeks since I sliced my hand up. Six weeks during which I thought I'd have missed climbing as much as my left arm.
Apparantly not.
Psyche is a strange thing. Sometimes it is hard to not be climbing, training, or doing something towards the artbitrary goal I might set myself. If it's not kept in check it can become all consuming, like it's of utmost important to latch that crimp or complete the circuit, or whatever. In the scheme of things it's ridiculous really.

Then other times it just disappears, and becomes the most difficult thing to regain.
Unlike most things in life, for me, climbing, and more specifically bouldering gives so much in terms of satisfaction, but it also takes just as much.
Time away from home, away from family, away from other pursuits, hobbies, things that I loved to do, but got sidelined because of climbing. It's a sacrifice.
Over these past 6 weeks, strangely, I've really appreciated time away from climbing. Not being knackered when I get back from climbing however many times a week have meant that I've enjoyed my evenings more. Not going out on the weekends have meant that I've been able to spend more time with family and friends, and doing other stuff.

Maybe it's that I've simply not been able to do anything, so I've not felt like I'm missing anything as I can't do it anyway. Maybe it's that I've relised that there are more important things to life than the CRUSH. Maybe I've just handled the injury better than I thought i would. Or maybe I'm just going through one of those periodic phases in my climbing when I just needed a break.

This doesn't mean I'm giving up. Or even that I'm going to climb any less, necessarily. It also means that 7a is still the goal for the end of the year, and the ticklist stands. I think it does mean however, that sometimes it's nice to have a little perspective, and this injury has given me time to reflect on bouldering, or rather life other than bouldering for a bit.

Anyway, enough naval gazing.

I went to Brownstones twice last week, and was rained off twice. I think the hand is ready to be climbed on lightly, should the opportunity arise, as it's scarring up nicely. I'm sure it's not full strength yet, but it's getting there.
I'll try to get out this week to test it, and also get back on with the swimming, as the great North swim is only 3 weeks away.
On another note, the cherry wood that I put for seasoning last year is now in perfect carving condition. I took a log out yesterday, and despite being alarmed at the cracking near one end, it's only been affected at the tip - once this was cut off, the rest is in perfect condition.
An experiment from last year is also ready - I put some laburnum wood to season and it's now ready to carve. I've taken the sapwood off (very flakey) and the heart is very hard, but has a beautiful dark grain. It already feels ike it'll be a joy to carve. The hand is bearing up with the carving, but still quite tender if I'm cutting hardwood.
That reminds me, I really should buy a glove...

another Cadshaw pb, woo!

2010-07-27T14:38:00.000-07:00

Well tonight I took out the last four of my stitches. Now it hurts, I think I've annoyed the nerves. It's also fairly itchy, but at least it doesn't look so grim as it did before.
I can see new skin in the wound, although it's still very tender and will still take a few weeks.
Anyway, for the time being running will have to do. The latest escapade was Cadshaw again. G-man wasn't free, then he was free so I met him at the layby at half five.
We started out and in a change from previous runs took it very easy on the initial downhill to avoid the dreaded stitch. We went round the reservoir in the same direction as before and on the way back G-man took a lead, with his quicker pace.
took it easy on the hill again, then increased the pace near the end - I finished in 40:29, nearly 30 seconds off my last effort, so I am really pleased.
G also took time off, but a bit disappointed not to get under 40 mins. To do it in that time would probably be possible actually...
time to get fit.

cadshaw PB

2010-07-23T14:06:00.000-07:00

Well, this running lark seems to be getting its claws in. I am starting to recover a bit quicker than I could before and although it's only been 3 weeks, I can already see my times improving and feel fitter as well.
I suppose if there's any silver lining to be gained from fucking my hand up, it's that I would never have started running if it weren't for having an enforced period away from climbing. Speaking of which, it's healing nicely.

I've now got the wound uncovered and it's fairly ok, except when I knock it. Wednesday saw my doubled over in pain though after trying to open a car air freshener. It sprang back into my hand.
Anyway as long as I don't knock it, it's fine.
Sooo, tonight I arranged to meet up with the G-star for a run. Cadshaw was the choice of the day. I got there at about half 5 and G got there a bit after. we set out after a few minutes.
The last couple of times I've been out I've managed to give myself a stitch, which on the Winter Hill run was pretty crippling. Starting off slowly apparantly helps prevent this, as it's the jolting of internal ligaments that causes it.
In spite of knowing this I still started out at a fast pace, and lo and behold started to develop a stitch... GCW kept to a steady pace. Sensible man.
After a mild castigation from G, the pace steadied up.
We went his way round this time, actually a good route because it meant we were out of the sun on the return.
I rushed my pace on the hill on the way back, then was flagging on the incline. Mistake. GCW overtook me and powered home to beat me by about 30 seconds.
I was aiming to take a minute off my previous best of 44 minutes, but the actual time was under 41 mins.
Really pleased, and quite surprised I could take so much time off as I didn't think it'd be so easy. I reckon a sub 40 time isn't out of the question.
I found it good to run with someone else, it seemed to help the pace too.
I might head out for a Jumbles circuit tomorrow, otherwise it's Monday or Tuesday.
Bonza.

Distance: 8km ish
time: 40 mins 57 secs
ascent: 60m
Speed: 11.7 kmph

Jumbles short run

2010-07-20T15:41:00.000-07:00

Tonight I went over to Jumbles reservoir to check out the run. On the way, it pissed it down, and it was looking unlikely, so I popped into my brother in laws so he could help me refit my laptop screen, plus reload CS4 which has been playing silly buggers.
Once I'd done that, it was still raining, but less so than earlier. Still, I opted for a short run...
I headed down to Jumbles and started out. The run starts out pretty flat on the start of the way round, the route is easy to find, and the path is pretty good.
The puddles were rife though, and there was much jumping in/around and through them. I got into a rhythm and was enjoying the run.
Once it drops back down into the valley, the uphill steps/slope are an absolute killer. really sapping. Anyway, I managed to get round in about 18 minutes 20. Not bad, although it was a very short run. managed to average 11.2 kmph, so I'm really pleased with that.
Here are the stats:

Distance: 3.4 Km
Ascent: 80m
Time: 18:20 mins
speed: 11.2 kmph

Winter Hill run run run

2010-07-20T15:27:00.001-07:00

Well, Saturday saw a revisit on the Winter Hill run. This time instead of doing the road rotue up to coal pit road it was the Lanky version from Brownstones to the mast and back.
I got me hair cut and then headed over to Brownstones. G was late leaving work, and held on in spite of getting there earlier than me, and we started up the hill. After a few minutes I picked up a stitch. The pace started off well, but when I gained the stitch I might as well have stopped. Which I did.
After much pain, and run-walk-running we reached the mast after about 27 minutes.
I dare say I slowed the pace considerably.
Anyway, The way down was the same as my last Winter hill run, which was done in 23 minutes. This time however we shaved 2 minutes off, doing it in just over 21 minutes. The pace downhill was good on the road, but I still think it could have been done faster as the stitch was still giving me grief.
Pleased with 48 mins up and down though, I'd say it was still quicker than last week, in spite of the shorter run.

Having done a bit of research on stitches, it seems it is stress on the ligaments between the diaphragm and the liver, exacerbated by fast breathing whilst running. So the trick is to regulate breathing at the start of the run to stop it annoying the liver...

Think like Linford, run like Linford...

2010-07-14T13:40:00.000-07:00

Well today I wanted to get out running as it has been a few days since I've been out...running.
The last run was a bit far, so I picked an 8k route around Turton and Entwistle reservoir. I got to Cadshaw at about 5:50 and started running at 6 sharp. At first, the run was good, ran past the quarries, round the bend and down to the river. Then kept on the path round the reservoir.
Really flat.
Then on the return, I got a stitch about two thirds of the way round. By about three quarters of the way round I'd managed to run through it, and eventually I got round to the hill. In spite of really wanting to stop and walk, I pushed through and didn't.
The final hill isn't actually too bad and it eventually relents.
The final section is just a flat plod, fairly pleasant.

I've come to the realisation that I hate running, when I'm running.
But afterwards, I feel great.
It feels like punishment, but strangely satisfying.

anyway, todays stats are as follows:

Distance: 8000m
Time: Just under 44 mins
Ascent: 130m
Weight: 74.5kg
speed: 10.9kmph (although I'm sure I've worked that out wrong...)

EDIT: Forgot to mention the awesome electric storm that started just as I was leaving Cadshaw, I've never seen horizontal lightning before, seemed to be tracking between the clouds which was quite cool.

Splitting wound

2010-07-13T13:44:00.000-07:00

So it's been a week since slicing my hand up like it ain't no thing.
Tonight I saw Dr. Sister in law who said she'd take my stitches out for me. The hospital said to only leave them in for a week, but to be on the safe side, she took the first stitch out to see how it would fare.
Although the wound is healing nicely, because of where it is, as the evening wore on, the wound started splitting from where the stitch had been taken out.
Not happy.
If it's this delicate just on one stitch removal doing normal things like using a knife and fork, how long is it going to be before I can properly crank down on it??
I opted to leave the other stitches in, and monitor it.
If they start to scab over or get embedded I'll remove them myself as fit, but I might as well leave them in for the time being as they seem to be the only thing holding my hand together.
It could be a good few weeks before I can climb properly.

I'm almost glad it's raining...

weekend shenanigans.

2010-07-11T13:01:00.001-07:00

Well this weekend I've been on the pork life a bit more than is reccomended. I met Stephen for a drink after work on Friday which ended up being a 3am session, then a leaving barbecue for Ju who is shortly off to Australia meant virtually all of yesterday was spent eating and drinking too.
Today I was feeling pretty unhealthy, so I decided to change things. I've been meaning to go running for a bit as this is pretty much the only cardio exercise I am capable of doing until the hand heals.
A trip to a sports shop was in order. When I arrived I was met with a gleaming wall full of running shoes of all shapes and sizes. After furtively rummaging for a few minutes to find a pair of a suitable size I picked out two of the whitest trainers money can buy. I proudly presented these to the till and bought them.
With the first step over, I needed a route.
G had suggested a run from Brownstones over to the mast on Winter Hill as a nice one to do, so after a brief look at the OS map the decision was made.
I arrived at Brownstones at a quarter past 6 and parked up. I started running along Colliers row and then turned left along coal pit road. Then my pace plummetted. From here on in it was pretty much uphill all the way to the mast. This isn't so bad on tarmac, but on the path it's pretty tough going!
After much run-rest-running (including a detour to an intriguing derelict building) I finally got to the mast. this took a little over half an hour., about 38 minutes or so. After a five minute rest I set off back and as it was downhill all of the way, I shaved 13 minutes off on the way back.
I've just measured how far it was on the OS map and surprisingly it was around 10k, there or thereabouts.
Bearing in mind I haven't been running for probably about 2 years I'm pretty pleased to be honest. It hurt on the way up, but it was a joy on the downhill, once I'd found my pace.
For any geeks that may be reading this, here are the stats
distance: 10000m
ascent: 181m
time: 1 hr 3 minutes

nice.

2010-07-08T13:14:00.000-07:00

Well it's been 3 days and the scar is starting to fuse nicely. Looking at the scar, I'm not too hopeful on projections for healing. 3 weeks at least, possibly longer.

I walked home last night from work as I'm not too safe changing gear with one hand. It took me 1 hour 45, I was quite surprised it took so long, but it was a pleasant walk in any case north of Westhoughton. I hadn't realised what nice countryside there is there. You really get a sense of place when walking that you don't when driving, I should do more of it.
Apart from this, I've decided to start back on the core work and also keep the right arm as strong as possible with weights. Not much more I can do really, except running.
erm, yeah. maybe.

hospital

2010-07-05T15:57:00.000-07:00

I'm typing this one handed this evening having just got back from two and a half hours spent in A&E. I've recently taken up wood carving and was using a small but very sharp carving knife.
At the moment I'm carving oak, which is very hard and tends to need a lot of pressure cutting. Just as Crimewatch was starting I slipped and managed to slice open the palm of my left hand from just below my index finger to the base of my palm.
In spite of copious blood spillage (one and a half tea towels full) the much better half managed to get me to the hospital to have it stitched up.
So here I am, 9 stiches later. I think climbing is out for a couple of weeks at least... although slightly up and it could have been a lot worse. I'm glad it went nowhere near my fingers.
In a slightly gory note I hadn't realised how much fat is in the hand, I could see globules of the stuff at the bottom of the cut. grim.

greasy rain and walkabout mats...

2010-07-04T10:39:00.000-07:00

This week just gone I have been down to Brownstones 3 times, primarily to try the pond traverse, various success. I can now get from the start right over to the rock-up move to the big hole about 2m from the end of the tricky wall by the pond. This is one problem just to keep on at. It'll get done one day...

Today I was planning a trip after the luftwaffe picked up our European friends. Brownstones it was again, and as soon as I got there it started to rain, quite heavily. Not deterred, I waited about and it did get better. I spoke to a guy who was leaving and he said it had been on and off. I tried the pond traverse and slipped off, twinging my left wrist, but managed on one occasion to get to the point I'd got to the other day.
Then GCW+troops came along. Briefly had a look at the mantelstrug dyno, which in true Lanky style is a SANDBAG. Then it started raining again, so it was time to de-camp up to the top end to look at Pigswill. As it was pretty wet, I opted to leave my mat by the pond, then pick it up on the way out.
G gave me the beta on groundhog, which looks nails, and then we went up to the nexus area. Pigswill was sopping, so nexus wall it was. As we were to be doing a bit of climbing, I went back to pick my mat up from the pond area, but it was missing. I had a scout round and couldn't see it anywhere, even went back to the road but no sign. I was fuming as I thought it had been nicked, but it appears that someone came and took the mat thinking it had been lost. I'll be picking it up this week. I'm just glad it hasn't gone missing.
Anyway, G then showed me some eliminates on the nexus wall, pretty good actually and would make a nice warm up if it rains. I had go at the low nexus traverse 6b, doing both halves separately and then it started raining. One to go back for.
All in all, not a bad session, at least got something done.
This week I should be out in the mornings and Tuesday and Friday, weathere permitting of course.

new stronstrey edit

2010-06-25T17:36:00.001-07:00

I wasn't happy with the last edit so I decided to do it again. The difference being more interesting titles and a few better cuts I think, some reversey experimentation and a UKB shout at the end. I'm still having trouble rendering from CS4, it seems that using the QT format with the H.264 codec is still producing crap results. This render uses the H.264 format with apple hdtv codec and looks ok. At least it's HD. I need to get this sorted for future though.
enjoy

Stronstrey edit take 2 from Rick Ginns on Vimeo.

Widdop - fear of success

2010-06-24T15:42:00.001-07:00

Planned to meet G-man over at Widdop, which is now feasible being near to the longest day of the year. I got there about 6, and headed straight up to the crag. Warmed up on a few of the easy problems, then GCW arrived.
G showed me a problem I didn't even know was there, Grumpy Old Men. He despatched it without too much trouble. The hard move comes at the beginning with a long slap up right to an arete, then a change of feet, then up to the finishing holds. At first it felt hard, I couldn't hold the arete and kept falling off. After a few goes though I could hold it for a fraction. On my best effort I managed to change ffeet and slap up to the finishing hold only to fall off. Bugger.
On taht occasion though, it felt really good and I reckon this will be done next time. I just need some new skin, because mine is thoroughly trashed now.
Then we went over to the main boulders where G was trying various things, and crushed splashdown like it ain't no thing.
I was nailing the first move ok, then it's just the floaty typey move to the break. Again, with crap skin, it was pretty offputting, but I'll get it done next time, this felt quite a lot easier than G.O.M., maybe as it suits me a bit more.
Then had a quick look at the Pickpocket left hand, but I think I'll give this one a miss as it looks heinous on the tendons and as I've got a pretty weak left index it wouldn't be good.
Just to add to the carnage I split another 2 tips on trying to do red edge right one-handed, and the midges then descended.
Time to leave. All in all, a crap session in terms of completion, but progress made on both GOM and Splashdown. I need to get there soon to finish these off...

Stronstrey edit

2010-06-22T05:26:00.000-07:00

So this is about the best I can get it, quality isn't great, but I guess once I figure out the best settings I can re-render.

Stronstrey sessions from Rick Ginns on Vimeo.

Had an hour down at Brownstones yesterday morning, working the Pond Traverse again, although I can get round to the corner at the pond without too much fuss. Just need to build up the stamina to blast it all in one go. I'll probably need to get some specific stamina work done, as it could do with being improved anyway...

Stronstrey again

2010-06-20T14:46:00.000-07:00

Saturday 19th June
I got up early and decided to head over to Stronstrey having been pleasantly surprised this week. Time was short, but I had about an hour and a half. I got there at about 9:30 and walked up. The uphill is a killer at this place and as I was a little hungover it wasn't pleasant. I headed straight over to the traverse (Spanners - 6a+) as I wanted to get some footage of this.
In spite of it being a bit cooler, it felt a lot harder than the other day, but managed to get it done without falling off at the end this time. The middle move is enjoyable. Good problem.
Next I took a look at Cackhanded Compliment, but the off isn't that appealing without a spotter and anyway it felt nails still to me. Another r-man problem that eludes me...
David Vetter was looking tempting but those last couple of moves just look on-off. Striking line though. I didn't try it.
I then went over to the Mirth area. Mirth of the ducks looks high, but not untenable. Maybe one to look at with a couple of mats and a spotter.
I wanted to have a look at Squint, 6a which goes up the wall between the aretes. Initially trying to go straight off the undercut I eventually used the right hand finger pocket and the left sidepull which made it much easier to get to the break. From there it was one dynamic move and it was in the bag. Nice moves on the problem, really satisfying.
As I was in the area, I crushed Hands me up (5) and The Hoard (5+).
By this time I had to head back, only for the estate agents to cancel the viewing. bloody great, I could have stayed at Stronstrey for another couple of hours.
I've got a bit of footage of various Stronstrey stuff now, so I will try to put it together this week. As I've just installed PPro on my new machine I want to see if I can learn how to use it...

Monday I'm likely to be at Brownstones early for an hour before work if I can get up early enough. Fancy getting on Pond traverse again. we'll see.

Lancs vid

2010-06-18T18:22:00.000-07:00

Just a couple of bits I've done recently, hope you like it.

#
##

Stronstrey session

2010-06-17T14:40:00.000-07:00

TOnight I was supposed to be going to Cadshaw a-roping, but in the event Banksy was unavailable. GCW was keen to get out and I've not been up to Stronstrey in ages, so it was set, G gave me the tour of another hole in Lancashire. Got there about 6 after the twat-nav sent me the wrong way, parked up and walked in. Cricket match was just starting so parked a bit further down, there's plenty of parking though.
I've only ever lead routes here, apart from one brief bouldering trip, and I must say I was impressed with the quality of the problems.
We started on Spanners, GCWs traverse on the right hand wall of the quarry. G flashed it and I managed to do it on my second go I think, I've done a lot of similar traversing recently so I felt quite strong on it. I reckon 6a or 6a+ is fair, nice moves. I failed many times on Tony Bland, although I was tickling the hold, and I couldn't do the mantle either. Dab man did both of them without too much trouble.
Then G crushed cackhanded Compliment but I couldn't make the span to the crack. This is a quality problem though, and I think I'll add it to the list, the moves feel really satisfying and it's the grade I should be looking at.
Then I managed to get up Escaping Jam first time which didn't feel too hard, although G was having trouble. Think his lank didn't help.
Handle block next, I dispatched Lovehandle 4+ first go. I couldn't get the hang of Phat Haendel though, the reach to the pinch felt desparate, and the rock was pretty hot too so conditions not too great. I gave that up as a bad job and we moved round to the wurzealous area.
Skin was playing up by this time so Wurz to come 5+ didn't come as easily as it should have, satisfying move though once you get the good hold. Lanky was trying various problems but it was quite sweaty by this point, so he broke out the beers and we admired the view as we drank them. Nice one G!
I managed to get a bit of footage but I dare say it'll be the weekend before I get it edited.
I was going to head out somewhere tomorrow, but I've been out every day this week and I'm looking to get out on Saturday morning, think I'll give it a rest.

Broonstoones again

2010-06-16T14:02:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 15th June
Went down to Jumbles, traversing back and forth, but the fingers felt beasted. Very tender. Got the arms moving, but nothing that interesting done.

Wednesday 16th June
Well, Surprise couple of hours free tonight so I decided to head up to Brownstones. I wanted another look at the Pond traverse and a couple of other things. I texted Kip to say I was heading down, and got there about 20 past 5.
It was baking hot today, but the pond traverse is pretty good even in the heat given its juggy and crimptastic nature.
I started off with a shit sequence from the corner, but after a couple of goes I have worked out a much better sequence, something like I was doing last year I recall.
Kip arrived, missus in tow, and bumbled around a bit on various things. I tried the 6b rockover problem on the two step wall again, but kept getting shut down again.
I had another look at the Pond traverse and there were a couple of other lads there trying it. I got as far as the big high jug near the left hand corner. I'm quite pleased as this is more or less as far as I've ever done, but I'm reticent to use this jug and would prefer to use the break holds, seems more pure. Not that it matters though... I reckon with a bit more fitness I'll nail this.
anyway then Steve turned up, dog in tow. I haven't seen him in ages, so it was good to catch up.
I pointed him at some of the pond area classics, and then we tried an eliminate on Moss wall. Good eliminate rockover, but really tricky! Kip seemed insistent to show me this, probably because I can't do it so I returned the favour by pointing him up Dynamic eliminate, which, erm, he couldn't do.
then one of the other lads was looking at Verdigris and I couldn't resist giving this another go. They were managing the first move static though which is much harder for me. Easier to jump than climb eh? When I did it first time round a couple of years ago it felt desparate, but today it felt easy and after one or two mis-fires I got up it, first time I've repeated it actually, so I was pretty content.
By that time I was well overdue so had to scram sharpish.
Climbed every day this week so far, skin is very tender, but hoping to get out tomorrow so am overdosing on the 'climb-on' and hoping for best.
Saturday morning is looking good too, so hope the weather is good...

Brownstones, Denham and Monty.

2010-06-14T12:23:00.000-07:00

Well I had the day off today as I had to be at home at 2 for the estate agents I decided to head out somewhere. Denham was the order of the day. I got there by about 10am and it was raining. After spilling coffee all over the car whilst waiting for the rain to clear up I braved a look at the rock.
Surprisingly it wasn't too bad at all in spite of the rain.I warmed up on the font 5 wall to the right of the groove, then put a pad under Pool arete.
This one of the illustrious problems on the list and I was eager to get back on. After a couple of goes I could get my feet high and work my right hand up the arete, but although I was tickling the jug I couldn't hold it. The high feet were pushing me away from the wall really which made it even more difficult to hold. annoying.
I then tried the 6b groove over to the left, getting to the crap slopers and no further. Another disappointment. I decided to look at the other problems in the guide here so walked over to the left. First was the slab left of Mohammed blah blah blah. Green green green, the whole wall was covered in lichen which was wet. unclimbable. Pity as it looks like a good problem.
The next area was too highball for me without a spotter anyway, and the third area with drill scar wall was again coated in a layer of lichen.
By this point I was getting distinctly unhappy. After a brief look at snap derision I trudged off.
I really want to like Denham, but the last couple of times I've been disappointed. Need to bring a brush next time...
I still had some time left so I decided to head nearer to home and back to Brownstones. I came yesterday with Banksy, but true to form whenever I go climbing with this chap it bloody rains.
Anyway today was looking dry so I was glad to be heading back. I wanted to take another look at the right hand niche eliminate (Font 6a).
Boots on, I climbed it first go. This took me by surprise. It's a good set of moves with a tricky rockover. Good stuff.
Then I wanted to get another one off the list, so tried Verdinand. I got to the juggy crimps first go, but I just haven't got the reach to get to the good crimps near the top of the groove. The only crimp I can reach is the useless matchstick crimp half way up the groove. I really need to sort out some different beta for this as I just don't have the lank for it, but this is likely to be a lot harder.
I then turned my attention to the two step rockover eliminate. Frustatingly, after a few goes I almost touched the top, and then didn't get that far again. Bugger.
Eventually I gave up on that as I had to go.
after meeting ginger Simon for boring paperwork I went over to Monty. Not been to Lower Montcliffe for ages, and saw that there are new steps installed on the walk down. Nice. Also I noticed a lot of rock fall in the quarry itself. It looks like someone has been doing a lot of trundling here, as there was loose rock on the floor all over the quarry.
I had a brief play on Bach but my tips were trashed anyway, so I left that to look at Indian Face. Again, the landing was off putting so I eventually put my mat under the Dinosaur Adventure 3D problem. This is another one I've tried on and off although I felt a lot stronger on it today. The difficulty I have on this one is getting my right hand high enough to be able to pull up so my left foot can get high.
My hands were beasted by this point, but I think with a bit more work this could be possible though.
One thing though, I got a dose of the Lankys and broke the small right foot. The start now involves both feet on the left, but this doesn't add to the difficulty.

Birthday weekend Limestone bashing

2010-06-07T01:55:00.000-07:00

This weekend I stumbled one more year towards 30. Time to set some loose goals. This got me thinking about where I am climbing wise and where I want to be. I have started to consolidate the 6s recently, and been feeling relatively strong of late. I have markedly improved on last years efforts to such a point that I can mostly tick off a 6a or 6a+ with relatively little effort, i.e. within a few goes. This has been brought about mostly due to pure volume of climbing. I've made a concerted effort to get out this year and it seems to be paying dividends so far. In view of this therefore I've set myself the goal of climbing 7a before December. If not before December, then before I turn 30 which gives me a timeframe of a year.
Lofty goal for me, a mere trifle for many people...
The weekend just gone was very enjoyable. As the weather was due to be scorching I decided against the grit. The limestone was calling and i'm enthusiastic for it after recent trips.
As my sister and brother-in-law were up and fancied getting out also, I decided on Hutton Roof. A typically lazy morning meant that we didn't get to the crag until after 1pm, but there was no urgency to the day. I soloed a couple of routes, then after pork products and sandwiches we decided to break out the rope.
I went through the fundamentals of tradding with T as he's not done a great deal outdoors before, then went up Wings VDiff, very pleasant route, then we climbed Ronson Kirby VDiff. After that we decided to hear over to Nicks traverse area.
This is quite an imposing crag with a large undercut roof. I played about at the left hand side for a bit and climbed the low start to No more monkey business. Looking back at the lakesbloc guide it gives the problem 6a+, which I'd probably agree with, the holds are positive but it is pretty beefy.
Then after messing about on various things I soloed Gorilla Berengii HS 4c then headed back over to where the girls were picnicking.
I had a good look at the straight start to Cyclops, one that I wanted to look at but no matter what I did I couldn't make progress. The weather was pretty hot and all of the holds felt slippy. It didn't help that the holds are horrendously polished and felt awful. I guess this is inevitable with a popular venue such as this, but it felt terrible! I may come back to it, but I was put off a bit to be honest.
Anyhow after that I was pretty knackered and so we left.
A most enjoyable barbecue was enjoyed in the evening with rather too much Vin Santo which didn't help the hangover...
Sunday was spent clearing trees and fencing and generally being productive. All in all a great weekend.

Newbiggin vid

2010-06-03T16:14:00.001-07:00

Finally I've got round to doing this, not that it's great anyway! Some dodgy footage, and plenty of failures...
Be prepared to be underwhelmed!

Newbiggin nice day out

2010-05-30T14:11:00.000-07:00

Today in spite of skin issues I fancied getting out and after various discussions it was decided to head to Newbiggin, partly because of its child friendly nature. I got there earlier than I expected to and headed up to the crag. As I was scoping out the lower tier Gareth and Nik arrived with little people in tow. Once they were settled on the multi purpose trampoline/table/mat with various foods, peppers and sausages included, we had a look at the block in front of the crag. A great little boulder with several problems on it.
Now I don't know whether it's just me, but everything seemed nails. G and Nik were looking at the 7a+ roof on the right but apparantly that was feeling nails too. the only problem I did was a 5+ up the slab. most of the holds were pretty sharp which wasn't good on the skin. Nik was looking beastly on the 6a arete and other problems come to that.
Tom then turned up, not seen him in a while, and he's always keen so it was good to catch up. He was raving about Warton, I've still not been so I think I'll have to go sometime. He was looking strong on the traversey thing, but also got shut down, so we all de-camped to the fridge area.
G was keen to try the Fridge as he'd been on it before. Nik cruised it after not a lot of time, good effort for a 7b, this chap makes climbing hard stuff look alarmingly easy... G was looking good and after a couple of goes he crushed it too in spite of consummate tree dabbage, but we'll let him off as it was almost impossible to avoid! I tried to get footage of this but I think it'll turn out crap in spite being up a tree as it's really closed in with blocks.
Then we headed over to the ingleborough wall and tried the right hand side which felt easy until the top out which was a tough mantle. Didn't want to use the jug on the right as that made the problem pretty easy, but in the event neither Tom or myself did it, and I ended up taking a few falls that apparantly resembled a falling bag of concrete which amused me. Time to move on.
G crushed Slap Arete next, impressive, two 7bs in one session, very good effort. Nik then departed and we had a look at the wall to the right of Ingleborough wall. There are two 6as on this wall and after a bit of faffing I managed to get up both of them. They didn't feel too hard either, so I was pretty pleased.
g headed off for familial visits and I messed about on the boulders to the left. Tom then returned from the car with his guide and we walked round to farleton. I was keen to see the crag as I've not been before and from what I could see there are a few good looking lines, that is if I ever decide to put a harness on again.
Meant to visit the rose to see the tendon snapping hold and check out a couple of problems, but by the time we oriented ourselves, it was time to go. This place is due a revisit.
The downside to the limestone is that now, all the fingers on my left hand are split and sore, so it'll take a couple of days to sort them out...
So, this weekend, I've got up three 6as, a 6a+ and a 6b. Not bad all in all, and some great company and weather to boot. Who can ask fairer than that. I might do a vid tomorrow if I get round to it.

Blackstone Edge crushage

2010-05-29T04:33:00.000-07:00

I'm on me tod this weekend, so good opportunity to get some crushing done. that is, if the weather hadn't stopped play...
Anyway, it's not been entirely wasted. Last night I popped over to Blackstone Edge. I've been here a few times, but apparantly not since 2008, which surprised me, I hadn't realised it had been so long. I got there at about 6. the weather was quite sunny, but not too hot to make conditions too greasy. Before striking up to the edge, I took a detour into the White house quarry on the left . I had heard that this is being developed for the forthcoming guide. The initial bay contains a couple of nice slabs, unlikely to contain many hard problems, maybe 1 or 2 lines. interestingly there is a rusting peg on the higher wall - this place has clearly been climbed on for some time, which isn't surprising given the close proximity to the Pennine way. Another clue was '5c' painted in yellow at the base of a wall. hmm, font this ain't.
I continued on to the crag and went straight over to the Hueco blocks. I didn't expect to see anybody, especially as it was a Friday night, but there was one guy bouldering on the back edge near the engravings. I started on the 6a slab, which was my main aim actually, but just couldn't move on from the sloper. better footwork needed I think. I gave up on that and went over to the 6b problem on the steep side of the right hand block. This is only short, but is a really good couple of moves, and suits me as it goes off a good crimp. After a couple of misfires I got up (even without a dab *gasp*). it felt fairly stiff as there's not much for the feet.
then I went to the other side of the block to look at the 6a+ arete. I tried this last time I was here and just couldn't get the last move. It was this move that was frustrating me again. I spent ages with various methods, including heel hooking, but none of them worked. In the end all it needed was a long reach and a couple of adjustments and it was in the bag.
Next I did a couple of easy but enjoyable problems, and then had a look at the 6a arete to the right of the slab. Again, this beasted the skin and by this time I was pretty raw, but I got up it, utilising a high foot. Looking back at an old vid Nik is trying it with only the right hand, which would be impressive!
By this time it was getting on, not that I had any time constraints, but I had another look at the slab to see if I could figure it out. On the second go I managed to split three tips on my left hand which are now fairly sore...
So, a 6a, 6a+ and a 6b all in one session. Definitely the best performance of the year so far.
Day off today due to the rain, then hopefully tomorrow will be Woodwell and/or Farlton, neither of which I've been to so it should be fun.

disappointing

2010-05-26T14:00:00.000-07:00

The rain today made for epic psyche failure. I had planned on heading over to Lower Montcliffe or some other hole in the ground with the G-man, but as it was drizzling until about 4pm it was looking pretty unlikely. I was stuck in marketing meetings most of the afternoon as well but instead of dying of tedium I just got more and more disinterested.
In the end, as it was also raining in Preston, and after consummate umming and ahhing I decided against heading to West View (sorry G) and bailed out to Broughton.
Shit session, wish I hadn't bothered.

I should be out on Friday night and at the weekend as I have a rare weekend left to my own devices. Let's hope I learn to climb before then.

Jumbles Traverse crushed.

2010-05-24T01:36:00.000-07:00

After yesterdays excitement I hadn’t particularly expected to be out early this morning, especially given it is Monday. The weather was looking good though and I was already fairly awake so I decided to head over to the Jumbles.
The aim was to look at the problem on the short wall that I’d cleaned last week, but although doing the first couple of moves, it still felt really bold with the crap landing, so I jacked it. I only had about 20 minutes left so I had a look at the long flat wall.
I’ve been working the traverse of this wall for a while. The hardest move comes right in the middle and although I could do all the moves I was having trouble linking the crux with the start and finish sections.
Anyway after a brief look at the holds, I could see that it was bone dry, a lot better conditions than last week.
I started climbing and everything just felt right, I seemed to be hitting the holds perfect each time, so when I got to the crux it felt easier than it ever has done. I managed to power through to the end which really took me by surprise!
It’s not particularly hard, it felt about font 6a ish, but I’m crap at grading these things, especially traverses so it may be easier or harder. It's got some really nice moves, I enjoyed it.
I’ve called it Tiny Feet Traverse English 5c/5c+ Font 6a ish.
If anyone repeats it, I'd appreciate any thoughts on the grade

Another one off the list

2010-05-23T13:49:00.000-07:00

I was originally supposed to be getting in on some trad action this weekend up at Dow, bearing in mind the weather has been so good, but Taffa has done his shoulder in. Looks like he'll be out of action for a while.
So that trip had to be cancelled, leaving Sunday morning free to climb wherever. As I've been preoccupied with Choomle-berghamstead recently I've been neglecting the list somewhat.
Therefore the decision had to be Widdop.
I had one main problem I wanted to do today, Pickpocket crack 6a+.
I arrived at the crag by about 10ish, and it was already 26 degrees. I was fast thinking that going for grit today was not the best idea - everything was likely to be greasy and slippy, especially on the polish. The problem itself takes a great line up a triangular slab. I remembered from last year that it tends to stay in the shade in the morning. The rock was pretty cool to the touch when I got there, so I was in luck.
As warming up is for poofs I decided to jump straight on the target of the day. Last year I tried this problem a couple of times: the first time I injured my middle finger on the left hand mono, straining the tendon, then when I went back a few weeks later I did exactly the same thing. After that I didn't bother as I wasn't keen to be injured a third time! This time was to be different.

After a couple of mis-fires it was crushed. Third go of the day, great!
I went to have a look at splashback, also a good problem, but the full sun was on the arete hold, and I kept slipping off. This one needs cool conditions I reckon, but I think I'll keep it in mind for a revisit. After that I decided to potter around on various easy and enjoyable problems before it got almost unbearably hot.
Anyway, another problem off the list, and it felt fairly straight forward. All the better!

Greasy McGreasyson

2010-05-20T13:43:00.000-07:00

Choomly boombly isn't a crag that tends to get wet. There's a big canopy of trees overhanging the crag, and under normal circumstances you can climb on the long wall in the rain. It takes little seepage too, so it's a pretty good bet for being dry. As it hadn't been raining for ages, aside from a shower the other morning, and I wanted to get this bloody traverse done, I decided to head down.
This is in spite of reading this. To be honest I had it coming, but I found this strange wetness hard to believe.
When I got there I knew that it may be greasy but didn't think it would be too much of a problem. In the event, most of the holds were dry, but almost all of the crack holds were seeping, and the low foot ledges and crimps were all wet, even those seemingly nowhere near any seepage lines.
I decided to give it a go anyway, and after a couple of false starts I got through the crux, which came aa a surprise, and steeled myself for the stamina finish. On the next move I slipped straight off a juggy crack hold onto my arse.
Great.
The rock really was too greasy to get anything done so after a brief look at the overlap wall and a couple of other things, I headed off.
I suppose I could say the lesson to learn is to listen to the Lank, but I'd rather not give the satisfaction...

multiple failures

2010-05-19T14:14:00.000-07:00

Short version: I didn't climb anything.

Long version: I went down to crumbly Jumbly tonight for a peep. It's the first time recently I've been there on my own, or so I thought. When I arrived I noticed someone over at the Clowns pocket wall. It turned out to be R-man. It was good to finally meet him as I've had quite a bit of email banter about various things over the last few years. Usually esoterica.
He was about to leave so after pointing him at a couple of things I headed over to what I was there to do.
I abbed the line I was looking at and cleaned off the top. The problem itself was filthy and it took a while to clean it off. I uncovered a couple of goodish crimps. The problem goes further right than I originally thought. From the jug a high reach to a tiny crimp allows a step up to another crimp. At least that is as far as I got. the slopey ledge and landing is very off putting and means the climb becomes quite bold fairly quickly. I just didn't fancy it tonight, maybe with at least one spotter and another pad it might go.
After that disappointing conclusion I turned my attention to the traverse. After a good brush of the holds after the rain last night I jumped on. I've climbed every move on this problem, and all I need to do is link them.
The start is easy, but every time I was getting to the hard move it felt greasy. Either my foot felt wrong, or else the left crimp was slipping off on the step through. It was quite warm which didn't help, and I just couldn't get my left on the ledge. I changed tack and tried it using the left hand hold lower down, but this then made my right foot less stable. All very frustrating. The annoying thing is that when I do the move in isolation I can do it. I must be doing something wrong. I might get an hour free tomorrow in the middle of the day, I'll try again.

What with all this Chumbles action I've been very lax on the video and projects. Once I've got all I need to get done here, I will no doubt be-dazzle you all with some more superb feats of climbing on tape, in front of your very eyes!

traversey reversey

2010-05-17T14:46:00.000-07:00

The mumbo Jumbo traverse is still up for grabs and I fancied going down there tonight. As I've had a very busy weekend I was feeling shocking at work. I reckon it's all down to sleep and not getting enough of it. Anyway were it not such a nice and sunny day I dare say I would have sacked it.
In the event, I forgot my shoes anyway an had just my leather office shoes. It's not a good look abseiling down with shoes on, so I opted for climbing. The line I've got my eye on will wait until later in the week, so long as noone nicks it.
Mann Junior was down tonight with Jason, looking at Clowns wall, and he climbed the left hand line on the overhang wall. It looks like a good problem at about 5b. He's also done another problem to the left of the tree on green wall, which is a very good problem that goes off a sharpish sidepull via a crimp to the half height shelf, then to another ledge via a matchstick crimp, at least 6b+ I'd say, if not harder. Great move, definitely one to get back on and do. Mann was looking at the overlap, which after an hour he reckons is 6c+/7a but he didn't get it done in the end. Very sequency. Robin needs to get down, he'd nail it I reckon.
Anyways, I headed over to the traverse. I've been working this for what seems like ages and I've made a breakthrough tonight. For the first time I got through the thin section. After that it's pumpy but it's all there, one more tricky move and it's just a stamina fest. I can now do the traverse in two sections. I reckon next time I'm down I'll do it, but it's long, you need to be fresh. The thing I like about this problem is that it's not obvious at first how to do it - there are lots of different type moves which makes the climbing really interesting. It doesn't seem at my limit in terms of difficulty, but you need stamina. Playing about at the end, the low version below the big shelf is possible too, but feels harder.

I'm getting the psyche back after having it knocked last week methinks. Soon be time to jump on CP again.

Full house

2010-05-13T13:36:00.000-07:00

It was a full house tonight at Bumblo-Jumblo-mumblo, Mat, Cat, Ste, Scott, Geoff,and two others.
I wanted to see how the neck would fair, so I loaded up on the painkillers and headed down. The intention was to take it easy and maybe get something done. The wall to the left of Impending groom has not yet been climbed so I wanted to have a look at it. The crack to the left looks good too, but could really do with being cleaned properly on a rope.
After warming up on the traverse (still can't do the thin section in spite of the lanky's beta) I had a look at the wall. The first couple of moves are really good, a wide couple of sidepulls to a good left hand and then a right sidepull. Then it seems to blank out. The only move I can see next spans out right to a good but small crimp, but even if it heads that way, I can't see how it comes back left. This is one I really need to get on a rope and work out. Mr. Li was working on a diminutive problem on the short walls which follows a line of positive crimps. He was usurped by Scott who managed to get up it first, calling it Bryn at about font 6a. The sit start however fell to Steven.
Then I headed over to the big green wall, Geoff was trying a problem just right of the waterfall. After cleaning it for a while he got on it, climbing further right than he expected to, but getting up it nonetheless. There might be two routes hereabouts. I spotted him on the left hand version, but it was all feeling a bit greasy and he didn't fancy it.
By then it was time to go anyway, and although I didn't get much done, the neck seems to have held up ok.
Ste has now climbed the Clowns wall arete direct, using some holds on the wall, a good effort, Careless Wispa, 6b+.
There are definitely two or three more lines I want to get done here, it's just getting the available time to clean and get them done before they get commandeered.

Frustration

2010-05-12T03:02:00.000-07:00

So there has been more action down at the Bumbly mumbles. Geoff Hibbert has climbed his project roof at about 6b which means I've got the green light to jump on it in spite of the alarming sounding waterfall behind it. Also the wiki is up and running thanks to Mr. Li and Mat has pulled together a nice map. All great progress.

Unfortunately though, my theory that if you ignore a problem it'll go away is proving fruitless. My neck, which felt like it was getting better yesterday, has got considerably more painful today. I woke up and could barely move my neck left or right without pain. I gave it an hour as I thought it might be early morning stiffness (excuse the pun) but it hasn't gone away.
It feels like a typical whiplash injury, or whatever they call it nowadays, which I've had before. The pain is located in the muscle on the left side of my spine from the neck to the top of the shoulder. I know it'll go away in time, but it's still extremely frustrating, especially as I'll be away all weekend. I was hoping to maintain the momentum.

I was planning to be climbing tomorrow but this now looks doubtful.

Why do I always seem to hurt myself when I'm making progress??

Falling like a clown.

2010-05-09T14:38:00.000-07:00

Sunday 9th may
I found myself a little hungover driving back from York this afternoon. As I was a little earlier than I expected I decided to meet GCW and Nik to give them a tour of the crag classics at Chummla.
I've been looking at Clowns Pocket problem for what seems like ages and I was feeling good for it today.
After a brief look at the Undiscovered Dyno I did a couple of years ago, G decided to break the starting hold off. I shouldn't be surprised really, he has a habit of doing that... Actually it was a bit loose anyway and was coming off at some point. Nik soon arrived with the young'un in tow and I showed them the Clowns Pocket. The Direct was still unclimbed and the arete hasn't been done direct either.
Nik flashed Clowns Pocket which goes from the arete with consummate ease and G was trying the direct with some dubious looking heel hooking action. This was clearly the way to go though, and he was looking strong on it. The dyno was also looking possible and GCW was coming very close, slapping just below the pocket. It's a really blind dyno, but a little more oomph and he'll get it done.
Nik was trying a similar method on the direct and managed to get the first ascent, pretty impressive stuff, graded at font 7a.
I jumped back onto Clowns Pocket and was getting to the shot hole easily. The next move is quite dynamic, but goes to a good hold, then it's just the rockover to crimps. As soon as I touched the crimp, which felt great, my right hand suddenly popped off totally unexpectedly. as I wasn't anticipating this I landed on my back which hurt. I've also got a wobbly tooth, but I'm sure it'll be ok in a couple of days, could have been worse.
EDIT: My neck is now considerably more painful than last night, climbing will be out for at least a few days so it can right itself...
Still, I felt close to doing it, maybe next time I'm down there.

Jumbo Chumbo micro-route

2010-05-07T01:18:00.000-07:00

Thursday 6th May

When I’d driven back from Bristol I went to Chumbo again. I’m starting to really like this place, It’s great to see others getting enthusiastic about it too. The idea was to look at the lines I’d cleaned on Tuesday. I was surprised to see Mr. Lee there again, trying the arête, but this would really be a hard line, and high too. There are just no holds! It would be bold…
After a short while Scott came down, and soon there were a couple of others. Geoff arrived shortly afterwards to look at his Project.
After slinging a rope down I dug off the rest of the corner and then went back over to the short crack. I finished cleaning it and got to the ground.
G was warming up on the project and was looking strong. With 4 mats and 3 spotters he was feeling more secure than Tuesday, and had his beta sorted. If only he can hold the swing it’ll go, but it’s a hard swing to hang.
After a while spotting I went back over to the short crack that I’d cleaned and climbed it. Another easy problem, VDiff and about 5 metres I think I’ll call it Golden Shot. Headbutt has climbed the wall between this and the next route to make a nice problem, maybe 4c. An enjoyable evening, all good stuff. I might pay a visit on Sunday if I can get over from York in time, although I’m on a stag do so this may well be up for being scuppered on Saturday night…

Why not to go urban bouldering

2010-05-07T01:16:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 5th may.

Today I was working in Coventry, and had an early start. After nipping over to Lutterworth I was finished by about 1pm. As I was staying in Witney I went straight down. With the extreme dearth of rock in Oxfordshire I paid a short visit to the Oxford boulder, a bendcrete construction in a park near the football ground. You would have to be pretty rock-starved to climb here, and various corners smelled distinctly of piss. However it got the arms going. I ended up seeing how many times I could lap the boulder, and worked up a good pump doing so. Would I revisit?

No.

dig dig dig brush brush brush

2010-05-07T01:15:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 4th May

Well today I finished work a bit earlier than I’d expected as I was getting nowhere with what I was doing and had an early morning on the next day.
I had an hour or so, so I went to the chumbly bumbly humbly for a short while. I slung a rope down the hand jam wall and abbed down. I dug off the top of the wall to extend the path a bit further round. This now means the off is fairly straight forward now and just involves a teeter round the tree and down the corner. The intention was to clean two lines I’ve been looking at, only short routes but look nice all the same. In the end it took so long to clean and brush them off that I didn’t have a chance to get on them.
As I was pulling my ropes, Hibbert arrived, or rather Mr. Esoterica , aka “the headbutt”. He was down to look at his project which looks hard although it looked as though someone had already been on it as it was chalked up. As I’d seen Mr. Lee leaving the crag as I arrived I suggested it may have been him, but it transpires that it was actually the ‘Broughton Copper’, Jason but he hadn’t done it.
Headbutt has spent ages on the problem, cleaning and trying it, it would really be an arse that nicks it from him, at least before he gives up…

Nice afternoon trundling

2010-05-04T01:11:00.000-07:00

Bank Holiday Monday.
This weekend I'd managed to finally get SD footage off the HV20 using WMM via firewire on the old crappy machine. What with moving house in the next 6 months, the computer purchase will need to be put on hold for more pressing concerns, so at least I will be able to make low res films with a view to re-doing them on a new machine. result.

Anyway, the rest of the weekend was spent entertaining the old dear and me brother et missus who were up for the weekend, and also doing housey stuff.

As I'd managed to paint and sealant my way to domestic bliss on Sunday afternoon I negotiated a few hours on Monday afternoon for climbing related shenanigans. Based on recent informations I opted for a trundling session down at the secret place. My first thought was to ab off on the first section and clean a route or two for later in the week. When I got to the top of the crag however, the only thing in ths part to ab off is a couple of dodgy fence posts. Me no likey.
I went back down to the bottom to look for a likely route to trundle. As it happened there looked like an easy line to the left of another route i've done on the wall, the only thing stopping play was a large block directly in the line of the route, which looked very unstable.

I opted to solo Root route S, ab off and swing across which would get me to the top of the route. It's a good job I looked at the block, as the only thing holding it to the cliff was a small root.
With a spade behind it and a shove it was off.
I could now abseil the route and clear all of the other loose stuff, and brush off the holds which took a good hour. Not because it was long, but due to the fact it hasn't been looked at since the quarrymen left it! Back at the bottom of the route and after a couple of kit-kats I pulled my shoes on and climbed the route. I've named it Intended Arrival, Severe. Not a hard route by any means, but it's very enjoyable creating something new.

bits and bobs but nothing really

2010-04-29T14:24:00.000-07:00

Tuesday I had an hour before tea so popped down to Chumbly Jumbly for a brief totter on the rock. after a bit of traversing, I repeated my dyno as a double which felt nicer than going with the right. Then I got onto Clown's pocket, the overhang, and got easily to my previous high point, but it's definitely going to be a pop for me, as I just can't reach the right hand crimp. I'll need to tape my left fingers as the pocket is really sharp. The crag is looking better in general.
Wednesday I did nothing as I didn't get back from work until 10:45 pm...rubbish.
Today, Thursday, as I was late back last night, I decided to head out somewhere before going to work. The plan was initially Brownstones, if not then Snakey B wall, Wilton 1. I got up to Brownstones at about 8:45 and the weather was not great, that drizzly crappy non-rain that you tend to get on the moors.
I went in the quarry anyway on the off chance that something was climbable, but alas it was all wet. This was a shame as I was keen to get back on Verdinand.
Wilton it was then.
Before heading down into Wilton 1 I wanted to have a quick look at 'Common Knowledge' in Wilton 3. I've always thought this looks like a good problem and I wantedd to see if it was viable. The landing is a bit worrying as it's uneven, but I guess if it's padded out and with spotters it should be ok. Might be worth a visit when the weather gets better.
After this i went down to Wilton 1 to see if anything was dry. The Snakey B wall was still pretty dry even though by this point it was raining. Virtually nothing else was dry. After warming up, I had a bash at the LH problem. I've not been on this for a few weeks, and consequently have forgotten the beta. I ended up getting my right hand on the small crimp above the overhang with my left hand still on the big hold. This felt good, but I couldn't move off the crimp and I thought the next move was straight to the jug, whereas you can use the next crimp. Aaaargh Bugger Bugger Bugger.
Psyche was severely ebbing in the inclement weather anyway, so I moved onto SB as it should be done, and quite quicky got to a standing position under the overlap. I just cannot for the life of me move up above that. Think it might be all about the left foot. Good effort Mr Mueller, this is bloody tricky.
Tonight I was supposed to be going back to Brownstones, but as it continued to piss it down I opted for a visit to Broughton with Ste. Not a bad session was had, working our way through as many of the problems up to 5c as possible. managed to flash 2 5cs as well which, bearing in mind they came at the end of the session, it wasn't bad.
pah. It felt as though I've done nothing today, but actually a probably have. hmm.

Bastard traffic and brief Brownstones session

2010-04-27T02:22:00.000-07:00

I set off this morning at ten past seven which under normal circumstances would have got me to Brownstones just before half past seven. The idea was to carry on with what I started last night. In the event, some cretin decided to roll his van on junction 6 of the M61 taking out two lanes, so the traffic was horrendous getting through Westhoughton. What should have taken about 4 minutes at that time of the morning took 50. I ended up getting to Brownstones at about 8:15.
Not Happy.
Ironically there were temporary traffic lights 100 yards before Brownstones, just to add to the annoyance!
Anyway that left me with only 20 minutes before I had to leave for work.
I jumped straight on the POnd traverse, taking it from watery arete as the pond side is still a little mushy. Much to my surprise I managed to get round mantelstrug to two step first go - this part has always been fairly tricky for me, but today it felt easy.
After that, I had a look at Verdinand. I've always been a little reticent to try this problem as it's so close to the wall and therefore it has always felt a bit intimidating. Anyway it's on the list, and as I need to get it done I had a look at the first move. This felt really dynamic at first, but once I'd warmed up and got used to the movement I could static it without too much bother. Getting to the crimps half way up the wall is definitely progress, but all I could see from there is a tiny matchstick edge to the right, which felt nails!
Looking at the wiki it looks like there's a higher pair of crimps I need to get. Pulling up on these is no doubt the crux though...
Progress on both the Pond traverse and Verdinand methinks.
Not bad for 20 minutes.

Crag X tonight for an hour, if I can escape work...

Brownstones.

2010-04-26T14:30:00.000-07:00

Today I wasn't sure where I'd be due to various circumstances. Therefore although I put my stuff in the car I didn't plan on going anywhere. After work however the weather seemed great so I thought I'd go up to Brownstones for an hour after work. The slimer slab has had a clear shower of volcanic ash and as such is really gritty and slippy. Hopefully after a couple of showers no lasting damage will be done.
Every time I go to Brownstones I seem to see another broken hold or damage to the rock. There appears to be a broken hold on Verdigris, and Mantelstrug has had another chunk taken out of it.
I warmed up on the pond traverse and then Kip turned up. I wasn't expecting to see him actually, but he showed me a couple of good eliminates on Moss wall. After more bumbling around on the traverse I got onto Dynamic eliminate (Font 6a). I thought i did this last year, but I was using the big hold, not the smaller crimp on the left. Anyway, this felt too hard last year just using the left hand on the crimp, and the second dynamic move felt a bit tough. So I tried it tonight. I did it first go, the proper way. This pleased me really. For me it was all about just moving a bit quicker than I was doing, and I feel stronger this year.
Then I got onto the niche sitter (Font 6a), and just couldn't get it. according to the guide, this problem goes from the undercut, to crimps 3 and 4. crimp 4 is fine, but looking at the diagram, crimp 3 is too far to the left to make it 6a, it feels more like 6c this way. I think the diagram has marked the wrong hold, and looking at the vid on the wiki has confirmed this. Anyway, I wasted a bit of energy until I'd figured it out, and I couldn't even touch the left hand version. Feels nails...
Anyway, played about on the moss wall eliminates for a bit before heading home.
I've got so many problems to do here, I think I'll come back in the morning if the weather is nice.