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Showing posts from July, 2014

Lancashire bolt 'debate'

So here's another update in the life of a punter... The weather has been cracking recently and I've been trying to take as much advantage of that as possible. But first, let's talk about bolts. Bolts are all over the quarries, I don't think there is a popular quarry without them, not to mention pegs, which are even more prevalent. The bolts tend to appear on the more futuristic or harder routes, but not exclusively, a lot having been placed in the 80s and 90s, when the climbs were too bold or too unprotectable to envisage in their natural state. Take Pritchards 'Suspended in Cryonics' E5 6c in Wilton 4 - a relatively hidden wall in a relatively under-used quarry, but a superb looking vertical 10 metre ish climb on small edges with no possibility of protection, and from the crux you're likely to be taking a serious fall. This was climbed in 1986, before the use (invention?) of bouldering mats. Altogether a serious proposition even with several mats. You