rginns blog

Today in spite of skin issues I fancied getting out and after various discussions it was decided to head to Newbiggin, partly because of its child friendly nature. I got there earlier than I expected to and headed up to the crag. As I was scoping out the lower tier Gareth and Nik arrived with little people in tow. Once they were settled on the multi purpose trampoline/table/mat with various foods, peppers and sausages included, we had a look at the block in front of the crag. A great little boulder with several problems on it. Now I don't know whether it's just me, but everything seemed nails. G and Nik were looking at the 7a+ roof on the right but apparantly that was feeling nails too. the only problem I did was a 5+ up the slab. most of the holds were pretty sharp which wasn't good on the skin. Nik was looking beastly on the 6a arete and other problems come to that. Tom then turned up, not seen him in a while, and he's always keen so it was good to catch up. He was ra

I'm on me tod this weekend, so good opportunity to get some crushing done. that is, if the weather hadn't stopped play... Anyway, it's not been entirely wasted. Last night I popped over to Blackstone Edge. I've been here a few times, but apparantly not since 2008, which surprised me, I hadn't realised it had been so long. I got there at about 6. the weather was quite sunny, but not too hot to make conditions too greasy. Before striking up to the edge, I took a detour into the White house quarry on the left . I had heard that this is being developed for the forthcoming guide. The initial bay contains a couple of nice slabs, unlikely to contain many hard problems, maybe 1 or 2 lines. interestingly there is a rusting peg on the higher wall - this place has clearly been climbed on for some time, which isn't surprising given the close proximity to the Pennine way. Another clue was '5c' painted in yellow at the base of a wall. hmm, font this ain't. I conti

The rain today made for epic psyche failure. I had planned on heading over to Lower Montcliffe or some other hole in the ground with the G-man, but as it was drizzling until about 4pm it was looking pretty unlikely. I was stuck in marketing meetings most of the afternoon as well but instead of dying of tedium I just got more and more disinterested. In the end, as it was also raining in Preston, and after consummate umming and ahhing I decided against heading to West View (sorry G) and bailed out to Broughton. Shit session, wish I hadn't bothered. I should be out on Friday night and at the weekend as I have a rare weekend left to my own devices. Let's hope I learn to climb before then.

After yesterdays excitement I hadn’t particularly expected to be out early this morning, especially given it is Monday. The weather was looking good though and I was already fairly awake so I decided to head over to the Jumbles. The aim was to look at the problem on the short wall that I’d cleaned last week, but although doing the first couple of moves, it still felt really bold with the crap landing, so I jacked it. I only had about 20 minutes left so I had a look at the long flat wall. I’ve been working the traverse of this wall for a while. The hardest move comes right in the middle and although I could do all the moves I was having trouble linking the crux with the start and finish sections. Anyway after a brief look at the holds, I could see that it was bone dry, a lot better conditions than last week. I started climbing and everything just felt right, I seemed to be hitting the holds perfect each time, so when I got to the crux it felt easier than it ever has done. I managed to p

I was originally supposed to be getting in on some trad action this weekend up at Dow, bearing in mind the weather has been so good, but Taffa has done his shoulder in. Looks like he'll be out of action for a while. So that trip had to be cancelled, leaving Sunday morning free to climb wherever. As I've been preoccupied with Choomle-berghamstead recently I've been neglecting the list somewhat. Therefore the decision had to be Widdop. I had one main problem I wanted to do today, Pickpocket crack 6a+. I arrived at the crag by about 10ish, and it was already 26 degrees. I was fast thinking that going for grit today was not the best idea - everything was likely to be greasy and slippy, especially on the polish. The problem itself takes a great line up a triangular slab. I remembered from last year that it tends to stay in the shade in the morning. The rock was pretty cool to the touch when I got there, so I was in luck. As warming up is for poofs I decided to jump straight on t

Choomly boombly isn't a crag that tends to get wet. There's a big canopy of trees overhanging the crag, and under normal circumstances you can climb on the long wall in the rain. It takes little seepage too, so it's a pretty good bet for being dry. As it hadn't been raining for ages, aside from a shower the other morning, and I wanted to get this bloody traverse done, I decided to head down. This is in spite of reading this . To be honest I had it coming, but I found this strange wetness hard to believe. When I got there I knew that it may be greasy but didn't think it would be too much of a problem. In the event, most of the holds were dry, but almost all of the crack holds were seeping, and the low foot ledges and crimps were all wet, even those seemingly nowhere near any seepage lines. I decided to give it a go anyway, and after a couple of false starts I got through the crux, which came aa a surprise, and steeled myself for the stamina finish. On the next move I

Short version: I didn't climb anything. Long version: I went down to crumbly Jumbly tonight for a peep. It's the first time recently I've been there on my own, or so I thought. When I arrived I noticed someone over at the Clowns pocket wall. It turned out to be R-man. It was good to finally meet him as I've had quite a bit of email banter about various things over the last few years. Usually esoterica. He was about to leave so after pointing him at a couple of things I headed over to what I was there to do. I abbed the line I was looking at and cleaned off the top. The problem itself was filthy and it took a while to clean it off. I uncovered a couple of goodish crimps. The problem goes further right than I originally thought. From the jug a high reach to a tiny crimp allows a step up to another crimp. At least that is as far as I got. the slopey ledge and landing is very off putting and means the climb becomes quite bold fairly quickly. I just didn't fancy it tonig

The mumbo Jumbo traverse is still up for grabs and I fancied going down there tonight. As I've had a very busy weekend I was feeling shocking at work. I reckon it's all down to sleep and not getting enough of it. Anyway were it not such a nice and sunny day I dare say I would have sacked it. In the event, I forgot my shoes anyway an had just my leather office shoes. It's not a good look abseiling down with shoes on, so I opted for climbing. The line I've got my eye on will wait until later in the week, so long as noone nicks it. Mann Junior was down tonight with Jason, looking at Clowns wall, and he climbed the left hand line on the overhang wall. It looks like a good problem at about 5b. He's also done another problem to the left of the tree on green wall, which is a very good problem that goes off a sharpish sidepull via a crimp to the half height shelf, then to another ledge via a matchstick crimp, at least 6b+ I'd say, if not harder. Great move, definitely o

It was a full house tonight at Bumblo-Jumblo-mumblo, Mat, Cat, Ste, Scott, Geoff,and two others. I wanted to see how the neck would fair, so I loaded up on the painkillers and headed down. The intention was to take it easy and maybe get something done. The wall to the left of Impending groom has not yet been climbed so I wanted to have a look at it. The crack to the left looks good too, but could really do with being cleaned properly on a rope. After warming up on the traverse (still can't do the thin section in spite of the lanky's beta) I had a look at the wall. The first couple of moves are really good, a wide couple of sidepulls to a good left hand and then a right sidepull. Then it seems to blank out. The only move I can see next spans out right to a good but small crimp, but even if it heads that way, I can't see how it comes back left. This is one I really need to get on a rope and work out. Mr. Li was working on a diminutive problem on the short walls which follows

So there has been more action down at the Bumbly mumbles. Geoff Hibbert has climbed his project roof at about 6b which means I've got the green light to jump on it in spite of the alarming sounding waterfall behind it. Also the wiki is up and running thanks to Mr. Li and Mat has pulled together a nice map. All great progress. Unfortunately though, my theory that if you ignore a problem it'll go away is proving fruitless. My neck, which felt like it was getting better yesterday, has got considerably more painful today. I woke up and could barely move my neck left or right without pain. I gave it an hour as I thought it might be early morning stiffness (excuse the pun) but it hasn't gone away. It feels like a typical whiplash injury, or whatever they call it nowadays, which I've had before. The pain is located in the muscle on the left side of my spine from the neck to the top of the shoulder. I know it'll go away in time, but it's still extremely frustrating, esp

Sunday 9th may I found myself a little hungover driving back from York this afternoon. As I was a little earlier than I expected I decided to meet GCW and Nik to give them a tour of the crag classics at Chummla. I've been looking at Clowns Pocket problem for what seems like ages and I was feeling good for it today. After a brief look at the Undiscovered Dyno I did a couple of years ago, G decided to break the starting hold off. I shouldn't be surprised really, he has a habit of doing that... Actually it was a bit loose anyway and was coming off at some point. Nik soon arrived with the young'un in tow and I showed them the Clowns Pocket. The Direct was still unclimbed and the arete hasn't been done direct either. Nik flashed Clowns Pocket which goes from the arete with consummate ease and G was trying the direct with some dubious looking heel hooking action. This was clearly the way to go though, and he was looking strong on it. The dyno was also looking possible and GC

Thursday 6th May When I’d driven back from Bristol I went to Chumbo again. I’m starting to really like this place, It’s great to see others getting enthusiastic about it too. The idea was to look at the lines I’d cleaned on Tuesday. I was surprised to see Mr. Lee there again, trying the arête, but this would really be a hard line, and high too. There are just no holds! It would be bold… After a short while Scott came down, and soon there were a couple of others. Geoff arrived shortly afterwards to look at his Project. After slinging a rope down I dug off the rest of the corner and then went back over to the short crack. I finished cleaning it and got to the ground. G was warming up on the project and was looking strong. With 4 mats and 3 spotters he was feeling more secure than Tuesday, and had his beta sorted. If only he can hold the swing it’ll go, but it’s a hard swing to hang. After a while spotting I went back over to the short crack that I’d cleaned and climbed it. Another easy p

Wednesday 5th may. Today I was working in Coventry, and had an early start. After nipping over to Lutterworth I was finished by about 1pm. As I was staying in Witney I went straight down. With the extreme dearth of rock in Oxfordshire I paid a short visit to the Oxford boulder, a bendcrete construction in a park near the football ground. You would have to be pretty rock-starved to climb here, and various corners smelled distinctly of piss. However it got the arms going. I ended up seeing how many times I could lap the boulder, and worked up a good pump doing so. Would I revisit? No.

Tuesday 4th May Well today I finished work a bit earlier than I’d expected as I was getting nowhere with what I was doing and had an early morning on the next day. I had an hour or so, so I went to the chumbly bumbly humbly for a short while. I slung a rope down the hand jam wall and abbed down. I dug off the top of the wall to extend the path a bit further round. This now means the off is fairly straight forward now and just involves a teeter round the tree and down the corner. The intention was to clean two lines I’ve been looking at, only short routes but look nice all the same. In the end it took so long to clean and brush them off that I didn’t have a chance to get on them. As I was pulling my ropes, Hibbert arrived, or rather Mr. Esoterica , aka “the headbutt”. He was down to look at his project which looks hard although it looked as though someone had already been on it as it was chalked up. As I’d seen Mr. Lee leaving the crag as I arrived I suggested it may have been him, but

Bank Holiday Monday. This weekend I'd managed to finally get SD footage off the HV20 using WMM via firewire on the old crappy machine. What with moving house in the next 6 months, the computer purchase will need to be put on hold for more pressing concerns, so at least I will be able to make low res films with a view to re-doing them on a new machine. result. Anyway, the rest of the weekend was spent entertaining the old dear and me brother et missus who were up for the weekend, and also doing housey stuff. As I'd managed to paint and sealant my way to domestic bliss on Sunday afternoon I negotiated a few hours on Monday afternoon for climbing related shenanigans. Based on recent informations I opted for a trundling session down at the secret place. My first thought was to ab off on the first section and clean a route or two for later in the week. When I got to the top of the crag however, the only thing in ths part to ab off is a couple of dodgy fence posts. Me no likey. I we