rginns blog

I had possibly the worst day of the year at work last week on Tuesday, and to top it all it was in Worksop. It may be just me, but people from Worksop just aren't normal. There's a kind of bubble they live in which means they can't breed outside their own gene pool. Or, at least that's how it seems to me. Anyway, after an unwarranted battering from all and sundry I managed to get free by about half past four. The original plan was to get shot a lot earlier and head outside somewhere in the peak on my way back, but in the event it was nearly dark by the time I left. I had to go to Harrogate before heading back home, so I went there and from there straight to the wall. I was going to go to Preston, but that would have added a good 45 minutes to my journey, so instead I went to Rochdale. I've not been here in a while, and wanted to check out the new problems. I warmed up on a few of the yellows and greens before attacking the pinks (V4/5) in anger. For some reason on

On Wednesday I had a couple of hours so went over to West View. All in all I was feeling ok, but I hadn't eaten enough in the day, so felt pretty dodgy afterwards. Note to self: eat stuff. I managed a lot of easy stuff, then very very nearly did the white V5 in the middle. For the first time, I linked all moves twice in a row, falling on the last move. For me this is a big improvement, especially bearing in mind I was knackered. G was looking strong as ever, and managed all manner of things up to the V6 region. Good stuff. Fast forward to yesterday, and I had a couple of hours free in the afternoon so popped over to Lower Montcliffe. I spent quite a bit of time there last summer and really like the place. There's rarely anyone there when I go, which is nice. There was one main aim, Dinosaur Adventure 3D (6c/6c+) that takes a cool slanting groove. After faffing about a bit, I got on the problem proper, and after a while was palming the groove. Then GCW and troops arrived, ready

I should have known that yesterday would be a failure. I had a morning free, but needed to be back by around midday. I wanted to look at some projects that I've virtually spent no time on this year, so a round of the local quarries was in order. First on the list, is Dinosaur Adventure 3d at Lower Montcliffe. This takes a line up a diagonal ramp feature in the third quarry along. Although it had been raining a fair bit recently, I expected the line to be dry as it is not directly affected by seepage. Or so I thought. In the event, the face was all but dry except for the crucial arete hold and the ramp sidepull. This was due to run off from the patch of grass above the problem. This will need a good couple of dry windy days at this time of the year before it comes into condition I reckon. Other than that I'm pretty psyched for it, and think it will go down as soon as I can get on it. The last time I tried it in the summer I was getting close. A brief look at Indian face, also on

Last week saw a visit to Rockover with Gremlin from UKB. It was my first trip to the wall and all in all it wasn't too bad. The only thing I would say is that it got really busy and I do prefer the less busy wall. The reason could be that I'm an unsociable bastard, but I like to think that I don't really prefer the 'cock on the block' set up that seems to be prevalent in a lot of walls. Other than that, the set up is quite good with variation of angles and moves. The roof could do with better lighting though. I liked the campus board upstairs, even I could 1-2-3 it to the top of those rungs. I could see campussing being addictive if you were strong. As somewhere new to head to, it's good, but it still can't rival Broughton for sheer crimping power variety, and it's an arse to get to in rush hour...

Last night saw a relatively rare visit to Preston, Darryl is about again in the week so I mentioned that I should be heading over there and GCW was up for some climbing too. It was busy when I arrived and only got busier. After getting lost several times Darryl had eventually made it in and was talking to Mad Tony and Alison from the club near the entrance. It was nice to see them again actually as I've not been getting out on the meets as often as I'd like. I warmed up on a few of the V2s and 3s, then tried a few of the v4s. To my surprise I flashed them all. I then tried one of the V4/5s and got up that first time too. I wasn't feeling too bad. Darryl was also going well in view of having been off climbing and injured for 6 months and got up a v4. If he loses a bit of the padding and starts training he'll be strong soon enough. GCW was putting on a good show too, eventually pulling a V6 out of the bag and looking strong on everything else, even managing to heel-toe ma

Last Wednesday I managed to get an hour free to nip up to the roaches quickly and I had only one aim: staffordshire Flyer. Time was short, so the priority was to find Doxeys pool as I'd never been before. I started up to the Upper Tier and slogged my way along. I'd forgotten how good the bouldering is on the upper tier, but I didn't have any time to stop so I kept going. The path finishes, so I carried along the broken edge for a few hundred yards before heading up and over the Upper tier to find Doxeys. I hadn't realised how far it would be, but got there eventually, after getting somewhat misrouted. Without further ado I got straight onto Staffordshire Flyer. The problem takes a rail up a roof to a dynamic move left to a hold on the arete, then up right, and goes at about 6b. Although it was fairly wet, it wasn't too bad, and there were some large stones so my mat didn't get too wet. The first move is ok, getting established on the rail, if a little off balanc

Yesterday I managed to escape work relatively on time, and as GCW and Nik were on duty and I was on the clock I decided to head over to Broughton. Unsurprisingly there was noone there, as is so often the case, but this is sure to change when the clocks go back. It's usually quite busy by mid-winter. I didn't really warm up, as everyone knows warming up is for gays, so I jumped straight on to a 5c. Normally at any other wall, or outside on a 5+ or 5c (which roughly equate to the same thing) I would probably flash it, or get it done on the second or third go. Not at Broughton. This got me thinking about grades, and place, and I wondered whether it was for the fact that I'm less used to this style of climbing (overhanging, crimpy in nature, limestoney). I can discount this based on the fact that overhanging crimpy style climbing is pretty much all I've been doing lately. In addition to this I'm definitely feeling stronger because of it. I couldn't really put it dow

Thursday saw a Wall of Burl revisit, with Nik. UKBs Gremlin was keen to get some training done, so he was round to be initiated into the WoB too. The 'footwork King', G-Lah had submitted a rather poor excuse and was nowhere to be seen however, so it was the three of us. Memory man Gremlin was given some excellent pointers from Nik-should-have-been-a-coach-at-work, and in spite of a woeful ability to remember more than two holds in sequence, he did well. WoB is a bit of a baptism of fire and he didn't hold out too badly for his first session, he'll come on quickly I reckon if he concentrates on his footwork and finger strength. Nik was looking as strong as ever in spite of the split finger, hope your crook wrist is better soon beast. I on the other hand felt a bit weak to be honest. I wasn't really thinking properly and ended up failing a lot on the same move without changing anything or trying to do it any differently. Bit lazy really, so it wasn't the best sess

Internet musings... Well, I've come to the position that I can no longer support UKC as I have done before. I came to this decision after reading this thread on UKB. Personally I've had no reason myself to take issue with the emporers of UKC in spite of the stories I've heard and their wish to influence other websites, but the POD debarcle seems to confirm what I thought. Dubious ALLEGED topo theft by the other company doesn't help matters, especially as they're full of inaccuracies anyway. So I've decided to delete all photos and everything on my profile if I can't delete the profile itself. I doubt I'll be visiting the site any tme soon and have effectively stopped using it a while back UKB is by far a better forum, and I shall be sticking to that from now on. Vive la revolution. Let's hope the Insect Overlords can do all they want to do with the site. Anyway, it's not all negativity, I've made a little game for you all: Hangman! Here'

Just a short post totally unrelated to anything... . I woke up this morning and thought that the fence was on fire - in fact the sun had just come up and it was in the overnight condensation steaming off as the sun hit it - it looked awesome though, so here's some footage... Quite cool.

I was planning on being out climbing yesterday, the weather was good, but in the end various factors conspired to ensure it didn't happen. Most of the afternoon however was spent cooking curries from scratch as we had friends over - the first time I've cooked vegan curries, but they were surprisingly easy, and tasty... We met up at the strawbury duck and went for a brief walk around the reservoir, and after a pint, we headed back via the scenic road to Belmont. After a good night of curries and merriment I was surprisingly feeling ok this morning. After everyone had gone, I decided to head up to West View as it had ben raining for most of the day. I've not been to West view for ages, and it was nice to refamiliarise myself with it and it was busier than I thought it would be.. Happened to see Gremlin from UKB there avec friend, and from what he is saying it seems brownstones is back to being a swamp again at the bottom end. Ah well, default situation really... I wasn't

Last night I went over to have a look at a project I've been eyeing up in an attempt to guage whether it's worth giving it any serious thought. I didn't get there until nearly 6 as I left work late, and it was quite humid, being about 16 degrees. As it's relatively closed in the rock was predictably fairly greasy. I'd come completely unprepared, having forgotton my brushes and bouldering shoes. Instead I had my old trad shoes and a chalk bag with no chalk in it. Things didn't start well. ah bugger it. I'd been feeling progressively more and more rough as the day wore on, so I wasn't hopeful of getting much done. The problem goes from a low sidepull jug to a slopey 3 finger hold, then there's a hard off balance move to back hand a crimp which should allow you to get high feet and reach to the break. As I did the first move the sidepull exploded in my left hand, spraining my wrist and sending me sprawling on the mat. Sounds dramatic eh? Well, maybe it

Yesterday I went up to the Lakes, an area that I've not really done much in. I had to drop the better half in Ravenstonedale for a hen do, then nip over the motorway to Kentmere. I drastically underestimated the amount of time it takes to get anywhere in the Lakes and ended up being over an hour later than planned. Anyhoo. Kentmere was the order of the day. G had already been at the crag for some time and I found him loitering around the Badger's appendage. Badger Rock was feeling intimidating as I was still extremely hungover from Big Gay John's wedding on Friday, so I mostly procrastinated whilst GCW failed to crush Badger arete (it looked all but crushed until he jumped off). Then we went up to Little Font, where I proceeded to crush Sheep Flies , which weighs in at a mighty Font 3 (amazing top out skills were also on show). Then we took turns to sit under The Way (6a+) but all the holds were pointing the wrong way for some reason and I couldn't even pull on. We gav

I was going to go swimming after work on Friday, and then on my way to the pool I got a message from the G-Meister challenging me to a Cadshaw run. At the next junction I turned round and headed up, heading along a really picturesque road, Egerton road from Belmont, then Stones Bank Road which brought me out right near Cadshaw. I never know the road existed, at least not that it lead from Belmont to Blackburn road. The wonders of Satnav indeed. I arrived, and managed to stretch a little before GCW arrived. I've not done this run for a while, probably 5 or 6 weeks, so I wasn't expecting a record time. I was right to trust my expectations. The first half didn't feel too bad, but I went through real bad patch just over half way through, I hadn't eaten much in the day and I think it really affected me. I almost stopped at several points. The time was 41:07 which is around 30 seconds off my previous best, which although not being very good, at least wasn't shameful, bea

Well look at that, thanks to you my blog has now reached the dizzying heights of 1000 visit points, woo hoo! Haven't you all got better things to do with your time?? Just think of the time you could have saved, you'll never have that back! To say thanks, here's a picture of a cake with a sad face.

Monday this week found me in Glasgow as I had some work up there. The plan was to cut early and head over to Dumby, but as is ever the case, I found myself looking at 6 hours worth of rain as I left the meeting at 2pm. It didn't look like it was going to stop. The choice was thus: option 1, drive 45 minutes to Dumby, look at some wet rock, then go home , or option 2, drive home. Unsurprisingly I opted for the second option. As it happens, I should be up there again in October, so I'm hoping to get a chance to head over, as I've heard good things about this Scottish bouldering homeland. Aside from that, which was doing nothing, I've done very little this week, in fact nothing. Soooooo yesterday I headed over to the Wall of Burl. Second visit, and it just isn't getting any less steep... and unfortunately gravity still has the same affect it always does on my un-muscly and flabby non-tensiony body. Think it's doing the job though. Today I feel wrecked. I haven'

This week has been a bit mad at work really, so I've had less opportunity to get much done. However on Tuesday I was feeling sluggish and decided I really needed to go for a run. As I was supposed to also be going to the in-laws I opted for a Jumbles quick run. It's been a while since I've done this run, and it showed, as I couldn't remember the route and got rather lost, ending up on horrobin lane. This added at least 3 minutes onto my time so I only managed 22 mins 45. bah. I felt broken too, obviously a bit out of touch... Yesterday I headed over to Todmorden for a board meeting at the church with the bearded one and GCW. The brutality of the 40 degree steepness all but finished me off after an hour or so, but I managed to get to the top on the jugs. well, just. Most of the rest of the time was spent generally flailing and watching BB and G crushing mad-stylee / spinning holds (delete as applicable). They were both looking strong. I knew the night was all but over wh

Well recently has mostly consisted of not moving very much, and drinking coupiously. I put it down to drinking while I still can, but whatever, it's not good. This weekend just gone was spent in Edinburgh on Banksy's stag do, and in spite of the only 4 hours sleep on Friday I managed to come second in the claypigeon shooting. ALthough I was robbed, having only 23 cartridges as opposed to the 25 everyone else had, so the moral victory is mine! After a night out which ended up in rickshaw races down the high street, we managed to leave the horrible (but cheap) hostel more or less in one piece. As I'd refused to pay double the train ticket price to leave at a time of my convenience, I had to wait until 4pm to get my train as opposed to everyone else leaving at 11. Ah well, I had a secret plan... I had managed to secrete my climbing shoes in the bag on the off chance that I'd be at a loose end. So, after breakfast I decided to head up to Salisbury crag for a play about. Igg

Went over to Brownstones after work yesterday for a potter. I warmed up on the crack, two step and a couple of others. Then worked a bit more on the pond traverse to see how I'd do. Actually I managed to get from the corner at the end of the initial wall over to the muddy arete or whatever it is first go, not even that warmed up. This was promising, as I could only just do that before I got injured. Anyway, another part I've always struggled on a bit is getting round from mantelstrung to two step. I managed that first go too, going low whereas I normally go high. Might I start to think this may actually go down this year? It was a bit of a confidence booster which I'm in dire need of at the minute. For me, Psyche+confidence=results, and as I'm running short of psyche... I was displeased to hear last night that the Great North Swim has been cancelled or rather postponed, meaning I won't be heading there this weekend. It does however mean that I can join the whole of

Well, yesterday I decided I'd better actually at least try to go climbing... Last week I went to Brownstones with Big G and generally failed to climb anything of note. It was a case of testing the hand out. Things started well, with G proffering Gauffres before we even started. Genius. Actually, it wasn't too bad really, I managed various things, the usuals, Lobotomy, Hernia etc. Also the two step 5c version, Dynamic eliminate 6a and a few other bits and bobs. The hand fared pretty well, aside from being fairly painful when pushing directly on the scar as I topped out. This is likely to be my only gripe now, but I'm hoping that massaging moisturiser into it regularly will help in the long run. So, fast forward to this week. The pork life I've been indulging recently has resulted in a 3 pound gain since I last went on the Wii fit, which kindly points out is 200 days ago... However, I feel unfit to say the least. I've got the Great North Swim next week, and I realised

Today it's been 6 weeks since I sliced my hand up. Six weeks during which I thought I'd have missed climbing as much as my left arm. Apparantly not. Psyche is a strange thing. Sometimes it is hard to not be climbing, training, or doing something towards the artbitrary goal I might set myself. If it's not kept in check it can become all consuming, like it's of utmost important to latch that crimp or complete the circuit, or whatever. In the scheme of things it's ridiculous really. Then other times it just disappears, and becomes the most difficult thing to regain. Unlike most things in life, for me, climbing, and more specifically bouldering gives so much in terms of satisfaction, but it also takes just as much. Time away from home, away from family, away from other pursuits, hobbies, things that I loved to do, but got sidelined because of climbing. It's a sacrifice. Over these past 6 weeks, strangely, I've really appreciated time away from climbing. Not bein

Well tonight I took out the last four of my stitches. Now it hurts, I think I've annoyed the nerves. It's also fairly itchy, but at least it doesn't look so grim as it did before. I can see new skin in the wound, although it's still very tender and will still take a few weeks. Anyway, for the time being running will have to do. The latest escapade was Cadshaw again. G-man wasn't free, then he was free so I met him at the layby at half five. We started out and in a change from previous runs took it very easy on the initial downhill to avoid the dreaded stitch. We went round the reservoir in the same direction as before and on the way back G-man took a lead, with his quicker pace. took it easy on the hill again, then increased the pace near the end - I finished in 40:29, nearly 30 seconds off my last effort, so I am really pleased. G also took time off, but a bit disappointed not to get under 40 mins. To do it in that time would probably be possible actually... time t

Well, this running lark seems to be getting its claws in. I am starting to recover a bit quicker than I could before and although it's only been 3 weeks, I can already see my times improving and feel fitter as well. I suppose if there's any silver lining to be gained from fucking my hand up, it's that I would never have started running if it weren't for having an enforced period away from climbing. Speaking of which, it's healing nicely. I've now got the wound uncovered and it's fairly ok, except when I knock it. Wednesday saw my doubled over in pain though after trying to open a car air freshener. It sprang back into my hand. Anyway as long as I don't knock it, it's fine. Sooo, tonight I arranged to meet up with the G-star for a run. Cadshaw was the choice of the day. I got there at about half 5 and G got there a bit after. we set out after a few minutes. The last couple of times I've been out I've managed to give myself a stitch, which on

Tonight I went over to Jumbles reservoir to check out the run. On the way, it pissed it down, and it was looking unlikely, so I popped into my brother in laws so he could help me refit my laptop screen, plus reload CS4 which has been playing silly buggers. Once I'd done that, it was still raining, but less so than earlier. Still, I opted for a short run... I headed down to Jumbles and started out. The run starts out pretty flat on the start of the way round, the route is easy to find, and the path is pretty good. The puddles were rife though, and there was much jumping in/around and through them. I got into a rhythm and was enjoying the run. Once it drops back down into the valley, the uphill steps/slope are an absolute killer. really sapping. Anyway, I managed to get round in about 18 minutes 20. Not bad, although it was a very short run. managed to average 11.2 kmph, so I'm really pleased with that. Here are the stats: Distance: 3.4 Km Ascent: 80m Time: 18:20 mins spee

Well, Saturday saw a revisit on the Winter Hill run. This time instead of doing the road rotue up to coal pit road it was the Lanky version from Brownstones to the mast and back. I got me hair cut and then headed over to Brownstones. G was late leaving work, and held on in spite of getting there earlier than me, and we started up the hill. After a few minutes I picked up a stitch. The pace started off well, but when I gained the stitch I might as well have stopped. Which I did. After much pain, and run-walk-running we reached the mast after about 27 minutes. I dare say I slowed the pace considerably. Anyway, The way down was the same as my last Winter hill run, which was done in 23 minutes. This time however we shaved 2 minutes off, doing it in just over 21 minutes. The pace downhill was good on the road, but I still think it could have been done faster as the stitch was still giving me grief. Pleased with 48 mins up and down though, I'd say it was still quicker than last week, in

Well today I wanted to get out running as it has been a few days since I've been out...running. The last run was a bit far, so I picked an 8k route around Turton and Entwistle reservoir. I got to Cadshaw at about 5:50 and started running at 6 sharp. At first, the run was good, ran past the quarries, round the bend and down to the river. Then kept on the path round the reservoir. Really flat. Then on the return, I got a stitch about two thirds of the way round. By about three quarters of the way round I'd managed to run through it, and eventually I got round to the hill. In spite of really wanting to stop and walk, I pushed through and didn't. The final hill isn't actually too bad and it eventually relents. The final section is just a flat plod, fairly pleasant. I've come to the realisation that I hate running, when I'm running. But afterwards, I feel great. It feels like punishment, but strangely satisfying. anyway, todays stats are as follows: Distance: 8000m T

So it's been a week since slicing my hand up like it ain't no thing. Tonight I saw Dr. Sister in law who said she'd take my stitches out for me. The hospital said to only leave them in for a week, but to be on the safe side, she took the first stitch out to see how it would fare. Although the wound is healing nicely, because of where it is, as the evening wore on, the wound started splitting from where the stitch had been taken out. Not happy. If it's this delicate just on one stitch removal doing normal things like using a knife and fork, how long is it going to be before I can properly crank down on it?? I opted to leave the other stitches in, and monitor it. If they start to scab over or get embedded I'll remove them myself as fit, but I might as well leave them in for the time being as they seem to be the only thing holding my hand together. It could be a good few weeks before I can climb properly. I'm almost glad it's raining...

Well this weekend I've been on the pork life a bit more than is reccomended. I met Stephen for a drink after work on Friday which ended up being a 3am session, then a leaving barbecue for Ju who is shortly off to Australia meant virtually all of yesterday was spent eating and drinking too. Today I was feeling pretty unhealthy, so I decided to change things. I've been meaning to go running for a bit as this is pretty much the only cardio exercise I am capable of doing until the hand heals. A trip to a sports shop was in order. When I arrived I was met with a gleaming wall full of running shoes of all shapes and sizes. After furtively rummaging for a few minutes to find a pair of a suitable size I picked out two of the whitest trainers money can buy. I proudly presented these to the till and bought them. With the first step over, I needed a route. G had suggested a run from Brownstones over to the mast on Winter Hill as a nice one to do, so after a brief look at the OS map the de

Well it's been 3 days and the scar is starting to fuse nicely. Looking at the scar, I'm not too hopeful on projections for healing. 3 weeks at least, possibly longer. I walked home last night from work as I'm not too safe changing gear with one hand. It took me 1 hour 45, I was quite surprised it took so long, but it was a pleasant walk in any case north of Westhoughton. I hadn't realised what nice countryside there is there. You really get a sense of place when walking that you don't when driving, I should do more of it. Apart from this, I've decided to start back on the core work and also keep the right arm as strong as possible with weights. Not much more I can do really, except running. erm, yeah. maybe.

I'm typing this one handed this evening having just got back from two and a half hours spent in A&E. I've recently taken up wood carving and was using a small but very sharp carving knife. At the moment I'm carving oak, which is very hard and tends to need a lot of pressure cutting. Just as Crimewatch was starting I slipped and managed to slice open the palm of my left hand from just below my index finger to the base of my palm. In spite of copious blood spillage (one and a half tea towels full) the much better half managed to get me to the hospital to have it stitched up. So here I am, 9 stiches later. I think climbing is out for a couple of weeks at least... although slightly up and it could have been a lot worse. I'm glad it went nowhere near my fingers. In a slightly gory note I hadn't realised how much fat is in the hand, I could see globules of the stuff at the bottom of the cut. grim.

This week just gone I have been down to Brownstones 3 times, primarily to try the pond traverse, various success. I can now get from the start right over to the rock-up move to the big hole about 2m from the end of the tricky wall by the pond. This is one problem just to keep on at. It'll get done one day... Today I was planning a trip after the luftwaffe picked up our European friends. Brownstones it was again, and as soon as I got there it started to rain, quite heavily. Not deterred, I waited about and it did get better. I spoke to a guy who was leaving and he said it had been on and off. I tried the pond traverse and slipped off, twinging my left wrist, but managed on one occasion to get to the point I'd got to the other day. Then GCW+troops came along. Briefly had a look at the mantelstrug dyno, which in true Lanky style is a SANDBAG. Then it started raining again, so it was time to de-camp up to the top end to look at Pigswill. As it was pretty wet, I opted to leave my ma

I wasn't happy with the last edit so I decided to do it again. The difference being more interesting titles and a few better cuts I think, some reversey experimentation and a UKB shout at the end. I'm still having trouble rendering from CS4, it seems that using the QT format with the H.264 codec is still producing crap results. This render uses the H.264 format with apple hdtv codec and looks ok. At least it's HD. I need to get this sorted for future though. enjoy Stronstrey edit take 2 from Rick Ginns on Vimeo .

Planned to meet G-man over at Widdop, which is now feasible being near to the longest day of the year. I got there about 6, and headed straight up to the crag. Warmed up on a few of the easy problems, then GCW arrived. G showed me a problem I didn't even know was there, Grumpy Old Men. He despatched it without too much trouble. The hard move comes at the beginning with a long slap up right to an arete, then a change of feet, then up to the finishing holds. At first it felt hard, I couldn't hold the arete and kept falling off. After a few goes though I could hold it for a fraction. On my best effort I managed to change ffeet and slap up to the finishing hold only to fall off. Bugger. On taht occasion though, it felt really good and I reckon this will be done next time. I just need some new skin, because mine is thoroughly trashed now. Then we went over to the main boulders where G was trying various things, and crushed splashdown like it ain't no thing. I was nailing the fir

So this is about the best I can get it, quality isn't great, but I guess once I figure out the best settings I can re-render. Stronstrey sessions from Rick Ginns on Vimeo . Had an hour down at Brownstones yesterday morning, working the Pond Traverse again, although I can get round to the corner at the pond without too much fuss. Just need to build up the stamina to blast it all in one go. I'll probably need to get some specific stamina work done, as it could do with being improved anyway...

Saturday 19th June I got up early and decided to head over to Stronstrey having been pleasantly surprised this week. Time was short, but I had about an hour and a half. I got there at about 9:30 and walked up. The uphill is a killer at this place and as I was a little hungover it wasn't pleasant. I headed straight over to the traverse (Spanners - 6a+) as I wanted to get some footage of this. In spite of it being a bit cooler, it felt a lot harder than the other day, but managed to get it done without falling off at the end this time. The middle move is enjoyable. Good problem. Next I took a look at Cackhanded Compliment, but the off isn't that appealing without a spotter and anyway it felt nails still to me. Another r-man problem that eludes me... David Vetter was looking tempting but those last couple of moves just look on-off. Striking line though. I didn't try it. I then went over to the Mirth area. Mirth of the ducks looks high, but not untenable. Maybe one to look at w

Just a couple of bits I've done recently, hope you like it. # ##

TOnight I was supposed to be going to Cadshaw a-roping, but in the event Banksy was unavailable. GCW was keen to get out and I've not been up to Stronstrey in ages, so it was set, G gave me the tour of another hole in Lancashire. Got there about 6 after the twat-nav sent me the wrong way, parked up and walked in. Cricket match was just starting so parked a bit further down, there's plenty of parking though. I've only ever lead routes here, apart from one brief bouldering trip, and I must say I was impressed with the quality of the problems. We started on Spanners, GCWs traverse on the right hand wall of the quarry. G flashed it and I managed to do it on my second go I think, I've done a lot of similar traversing recently so I felt quite strong on it. I reckon 6a or 6a+ is fair, nice moves. I failed many times on Tony Bland, although I was tickling the hold, and I couldn't do the mantle either. Dab man did both of them without too much trouble. Then G crushed cackhan

Tuesday 15th June Went down to Jumbles, traversing back and forth, but the fingers felt beasted. Very tender. Got the arms moving, but nothing that interesting done. Wednesday 16th June Well, Surprise couple of hours free tonight so I decided to head up to Brownstones. I wanted another look at the Pond traverse and a couple of other things. I texted Kip to say I was heading down, and got there about 20 past 5. It was baking hot today, but the pond traverse is pretty good even in the heat given its juggy and crimptastic nature. I started off with a shit sequence from the corner, but after a couple of goes I have worked out a much better sequence, something like I was doing last year I recall. Kip arrived, missus in tow, and bumbled around a bit on various things. I tried the 6b rockover problem on the two step wall again, but kept getting shut down again. I had another look at the Pond traverse and there were a couple of other lads there trying it. I got as far as the big high jug near

Well I had the day off today as I had to be at home at 2 for the estate agents I decided to head out somewhere. Denham was the order of the day. I got there by about 10am and it was raining. After spilling coffee all over the car whilst waiting for the rain to clear up I braved a look at the rock. Surprisingly it wasn't too bad at all in spite of the rain.I warmed up on the font 5 wall to the right of the groove, then put a pad under Pool arete. This one of the illustrious problems on the list and I was eager to get back on. After a couple of goes I could get my feet high and work my right hand up the arete, but although I was tickling the jug I couldn't hold it. The high feet were pushing me away from the wall really which made it even more difficult to hold. annoying. I then tried the 6b groove over to the left, getting to the crap slopers and no further. Another disappointment. I decided to look at the other problems in the guide here so walked over to the left. First was t

This weekend I stumbled one more year towards 30. Time to set some loose goals. This got me thinking about where I am climbing wise and where I want to be. I have started to consolidate the 6s recently, and been feeling relatively strong of late. I have markedly improved on last years efforts to such a point that I can mostly tick off a 6a or 6a+ with relatively little effort, i.e. within a few goes. This has been brought about mostly due to pure volume of climbing. I've made a concerted effort to get out this year and it seems to be paying dividends so far. In view of this therefore I've set myself the goal of climbing 7a before December. If not before December, then before I turn 30 which gives me a timeframe of a year. Lofty goal for me, a mere trifle for many people... The weekend just gone was very enjoyable. As the weather was due to be scorching I decided against the grit. The limestone was calling and i'm enthusiastic for it after recent trips. As my sister and brot

Finally I've got round to doing this, not that it's great anyway! Some dodgy footage, and plenty of failures... Be prepared to be underwhelmed!

Today in spite of skin issues I fancied getting out and after various discussions it was decided to head to Newbiggin, partly because of its child friendly nature. I got there earlier than I expected to and headed up to the crag. As I was scoping out the lower tier Gareth and Nik arrived with little people in tow. Once they were settled on the multi purpose trampoline/table/mat with various foods, peppers and sausages included, we had a look at the block in front of the crag. A great little boulder with several problems on it. Now I don't know whether it's just me, but everything seemed nails. G and Nik were looking at the 7a+ roof on the right but apparantly that was feeling nails too. the only problem I did was a 5+ up the slab. most of the holds were pretty sharp which wasn't good on the skin. Nik was looking beastly on the 6a arete and other problems come to that. Tom then turned up, not seen him in a while, and he's always keen so it was good to catch up. He was ra

I'm on me tod this weekend, so good opportunity to get some crushing done. that is, if the weather hadn't stopped play... Anyway, it's not been entirely wasted. Last night I popped over to Blackstone Edge. I've been here a few times, but apparantly not since 2008, which surprised me, I hadn't realised it had been so long. I got there at about 6. the weather was quite sunny, but not too hot to make conditions too greasy. Before striking up to the edge, I took a detour into the White house quarry on the left . I had heard that this is being developed for the forthcoming guide. The initial bay contains a couple of nice slabs, unlikely to contain many hard problems, maybe 1 or 2 lines. interestingly there is a rusting peg on the higher wall - this place has clearly been climbed on for some time, which isn't surprising given the close proximity to the Pennine way. Another clue was '5c' painted in yellow at the base of a wall. hmm, font this ain't. I conti

The rain today made for epic psyche failure. I had planned on heading over to Lower Montcliffe or some other hole in the ground with the G-man, but as it was drizzling until about 4pm it was looking pretty unlikely. I was stuck in marketing meetings most of the afternoon as well but instead of dying of tedium I just got more and more disinterested. In the end, as it was also raining in Preston, and after consummate umming and ahhing I decided against heading to West View (sorry G) and bailed out to Broughton. Shit session, wish I hadn't bothered. I should be out on Friday night and at the weekend as I have a rare weekend left to my own devices. Let's hope I learn to climb before then.

After yesterdays excitement I hadn’t particularly expected to be out early this morning, especially given it is Monday. The weather was looking good though and I was already fairly awake so I decided to head over to the Jumbles. The aim was to look at the problem on the short wall that I’d cleaned last week, but although doing the first couple of moves, it still felt really bold with the crap landing, so I jacked it. I only had about 20 minutes left so I had a look at the long flat wall. I’ve been working the traverse of this wall for a while. The hardest move comes right in the middle and although I could do all the moves I was having trouble linking the crux with the start and finish sections. Anyway after a brief look at the holds, I could see that it was bone dry, a lot better conditions than last week. I started climbing and everything just felt right, I seemed to be hitting the holds perfect each time, so when I got to the crux it felt easier than it ever has done. I managed to p

I was originally supposed to be getting in on some trad action this weekend up at Dow, bearing in mind the weather has been so good, but Taffa has done his shoulder in. Looks like he'll be out of action for a while. So that trip had to be cancelled, leaving Sunday morning free to climb wherever. As I've been preoccupied with Choomle-berghamstead recently I've been neglecting the list somewhat. Therefore the decision had to be Widdop. I had one main problem I wanted to do today, Pickpocket crack 6a+. I arrived at the crag by about 10ish, and it was already 26 degrees. I was fast thinking that going for grit today was not the best idea - everything was likely to be greasy and slippy, especially on the polish. The problem itself takes a great line up a triangular slab. I remembered from last year that it tends to stay in the shade in the morning. The rock was pretty cool to the touch when I got there, so I was in luck. As warming up is for poofs I decided to jump straight on t

Choomly boombly isn't a crag that tends to get wet. There's a big canopy of trees overhanging the crag, and under normal circumstances you can climb on the long wall in the rain. It takes little seepage too, so it's a pretty good bet for being dry. As it hadn't been raining for ages, aside from a shower the other morning, and I wanted to get this bloody traverse done, I decided to head down. This is in spite of reading this . To be honest I had it coming, but I found this strange wetness hard to believe. When I got there I knew that it may be greasy but didn't think it would be too much of a problem. In the event, most of the holds were dry, but almost all of the crack holds were seeping, and the low foot ledges and crimps were all wet, even those seemingly nowhere near any seepage lines. I decided to give it a go anyway, and after a couple of false starts I got through the crux, which came aa a surprise, and steeled myself for the stamina finish. On the next move I

Short version: I didn't climb anything. Long version: I went down to crumbly Jumbly tonight for a peep. It's the first time recently I've been there on my own, or so I thought. When I arrived I noticed someone over at the Clowns pocket wall. It turned out to be R-man. It was good to finally meet him as I've had quite a bit of email banter about various things over the last few years. Usually esoterica. He was about to leave so after pointing him at a couple of things I headed over to what I was there to do. I abbed the line I was looking at and cleaned off the top. The problem itself was filthy and it took a while to clean it off. I uncovered a couple of goodish crimps. The problem goes further right than I originally thought. From the jug a high reach to a tiny crimp allows a step up to another crimp. At least that is as far as I got. the slopey ledge and landing is very off putting and means the climb becomes quite bold fairly quickly. I just didn't fancy it tonig

The mumbo Jumbo traverse is still up for grabs and I fancied going down there tonight. As I've had a very busy weekend I was feeling shocking at work. I reckon it's all down to sleep and not getting enough of it. Anyway were it not such a nice and sunny day I dare say I would have sacked it. In the event, I forgot my shoes anyway an had just my leather office shoes. It's not a good look abseiling down with shoes on, so I opted for climbing. The line I've got my eye on will wait until later in the week, so long as noone nicks it. Mann Junior was down tonight with Jason, looking at Clowns wall, and he climbed the left hand line on the overhang wall. It looks like a good problem at about 5b. He's also done another problem to the left of the tree on green wall, which is a very good problem that goes off a sharpish sidepull via a crimp to the half height shelf, then to another ledge via a matchstick crimp, at least 6b+ I'd say, if not harder. Great move, definitely o

It was a full house tonight at Bumblo-Jumblo-mumblo, Mat, Cat, Ste, Scott, Geoff,and two others. I wanted to see how the neck would fair, so I loaded up on the painkillers and headed down. The intention was to take it easy and maybe get something done. The wall to the left of Impending groom has not yet been climbed so I wanted to have a look at it. The crack to the left looks good too, but could really do with being cleaned properly on a rope. After warming up on the traverse (still can't do the thin section in spite of the lanky's beta) I had a look at the wall. The first couple of moves are really good, a wide couple of sidepulls to a good left hand and then a right sidepull. Then it seems to blank out. The only move I can see next spans out right to a good but small crimp, but even if it heads that way, I can't see how it comes back left. This is one I really need to get on a rope and work out. Mr. Li was working on a diminutive problem on the short walls which follows

So there has been more action down at the Bumbly mumbles. Geoff Hibbert has climbed his project roof at about 6b which means I've got the green light to jump on it in spite of the alarming sounding waterfall behind it. Also the wiki is up and running thanks to Mr. Li and Mat has pulled together a nice map. All great progress. Unfortunately though, my theory that if you ignore a problem it'll go away is proving fruitless. My neck, which felt like it was getting better yesterday, has got considerably more painful today. I woke up and could barely move my neck left or right without pain. I gave it an hour as I thought it might be early morning stiffness (excuse the pun) but it hasn't gone away. It feels like a typical whiplash injury, or whatever they call it nowadays, which I've had before. The pain is located in the muscle on the left side of my spine from the neck to the top of the shoulder. I know it'll go away in time, but it's still extremely frustrating, esp